Axle shimming question

I have searched this forfum and no answer so here we go. I put the axles back in the tapered 44. Seems I only had to shim one side and it was only about .015. Does this seem right? Also, if i peck one bearing set in on one side, it pushes the otherside out. Did a Tux have different stuff or am I a retread?

 

Re: Axle simming question

Man I just can't spell today. Sorry all....

 

Looks like the spelling Gods are helping me today..R)

 

I'm having a hard time understanding the part about "pecking" one side and it pushes the other side. Maybe my 10 spline is a lot different than your axle, my side gear pinion shaft and thrust block are in the way for one axle to push the other one.

Shims: so you mean that after removing all the old shims, one side now needed 0.015" of shims and the other side needed none at all to get the 0.001-0.006" play?

 

I am trying to unscrew a bunch of things left by the PO. The drivers side had no shims. The passenger side had no shims or a bearing retainer plate. I made a new retainer plate just like the drivers side. I slid in both axles and tapped in the race. If I tapped (pecked) them in evenly on both sides, the race would stick out about .020 each side. If I tapped one side in all the way, it would push the other side out. It has a lockrite if that matters. Edit: I did get a box of used shims with the jeep that were once used. (probably on this jeep)

 

Is your axle (19 spline?) supposed to have a little spacer thingy like the one shown about 1/3 of the way down this page http://www.earlycj5.com/tech/axle/d44FFDIY/index.php ?

 

It has a locker and 2 blocks with a half moon lookin cut on one end. I cant really tell, the locker is in the way.

 

the thrust buttons shown in the article are for a powerlock.
the stock thrust block is much bigger, beefier, and one piece.

 

That's what I was afraid of ... do the blocks look like this Smokie?