1. Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.
    Dismiss Notice

Timing cover oil slinger?

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by gte636p, Jun 14, 2008.

  1. Jun 14, 2008
    gte636p

    gte636p Member

    smyrna, Ga
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    491
    I'm to the point where it's time to put the timing cover back on but the crankshaft looks like it needs a slinger on it under the timing cover. My haynes manual says there are two peices, a slinger and a sheder, that go underneith the timing cover. I have taken three of these motors apart over the years and have yet to see one of these pieces, but want to get this motor put together right.

    Is there such a thing as the slinger and sheder? If so, does anyone know where to get one? I can't seem to find it anywhere (T/A performance, Vatozone, advance auto, etc..).

    edit:: this would be a 225, I've got plenty of ole l and f head slinger lying arouns.
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2008
  2. Jun 14, 2008
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    9,120
    I've got a slinger or a shedder on my 225 crankshaft, but not both.
     
  3. Jun 14, 2008
    gte636p

    gte636p Member

    smyrna, Ga
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    491
    Think I found it in a box of stuff from a motor that I didn't tear down... fits on the crank and barely in the timing cover recess.

    The cam button, however, did not want to fit in the timing cover. Neither did the timing chain damper. The head of the bolt just couldn't fit inside the recess.
     
  4. Jun 14, 2008
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    9,120
    :? Both of those items were stock they should fit. I've got both in mine. I installed a cam button in it when I put the new cam in.
     
  5. Jun 14, 2008
    gte636p

    gte636p Member

    smyrna, Ga
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    491
    Well, although everything "should" go together I'm still trying to reconcile some shotty machine work from wayy back when (haven't had my CJ up in 2 years) The block I'm working with is from a '78 231 EF with a 68ish 225 OF crank and a new 231 OF cam. All the in a brand new timing cover for the '78 block casting, although the timing covers should be the same there might be a slight difference.

    I'm trying to get oil pressure that I can't maintain once the motor warms up. All this is in addition to turning the crank, reconditioning rods, and balancing the assembly with the flywheel and harmonic balancer attached.

    Hopefully things will finally turn out well again. From the looks of things I did not have the timing damper, cam button, or slinger in my original 225 motor.

    I would love to have the button, but there was about .25" gap between the cover and the block when things became ridiculously tight and I gave up the idea. When I tool it apart I had the imprint of the button on the cover. It's supposed to fit, but it ain't fitting.
     
  6. Jun 14, 2008
    gte636p

    gte636p Member

    smyrna, Ga
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    491
    think I found my errors... The spare block that I didn't tear down has a stud sticking out of it where the spring loaded timing chain damper sits. This would be what I needed in there instead of the bolt, and would fit perfectly. Also, I have a cam button for the 78 block. The drawings for the 225 OF button seem to look more like a freeze plug with a spring behind it. That would have worked. The button I have has about a 3/4 metal extension that sticks into the cam. This, of course, is not possible with the 231 OF cam I have and would not allow it to fit.

    Sparky, I know you went through a situation a while back that was resolved with a cam button. What was going on with that again and how did the cam button help the situation? It's been a long time ago and I don't know where to begin to look.

    edit:: n/m i found it... a leaking carb gasket?? I woulda never figured that either.
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2008
  7. Jun 14, 2008
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    9,120
    LOL! Nope, cam button didn't fix it, I did that as insurance against the distributor gear being eaten off again. :oops:
     
  8. Jun 15, 2008
    WYOMIKE

    WYOMIKE Oct 1971 pic

    Parkman, Wyoming
    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2003
    Messages:
    557
  9. Jun 15, 2008
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    9,120
    :? I know mine only has a shedder, is it because I use a newer front main gasket, I don't have the "packing" either...
     
  10. Jun 16, 2008
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    11,878
    18 and 19, the shedder and packing are only used if still using the rope type packing seal. These are removed and discarded when converting to a neoprene, press in type seal. The slinger should be used regardless. Nickmil
     
  11. Jun 16, 2008
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    9,120
    That's what I suspected. Thanks Nick.
     
  12. May 19, 2010
    Project71-5

    Project71-5 BACON

    Gypsum, CO
    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2002
    Messages:
    897
    Bringing an old thread back from the dead to add my findings.

    My V6 has the rope style seal, slinger, but no shedder. The motor has never been torn apart and is just as it came from the factory AFAIK.

    I was planning on going with a replacement rope style seal....does the neoprene offer that much of an advantage?
     
  13. May 19, 2010
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    8,360
    It's easier to install a plastic seal.
    I put a rope in mine the first time I did the chain, and it didn't leak after ~58 or 60K miles.
    The second time I replaced it with a plastic seal, and it hadn't leaked with 8 or 10K on it.

    When I did my current engine, I installed a plastic seal, and it doesn't leak after about 3K miles.

    FWIW
     
  14. May 19, 2010
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    11,878

    Much easier to deal with and much less likely to leak. Interesting yours doesn't have the shedder/slinger, especially if it still has the rope type seal.
    I'd recommend putting a speedi-sleeve on the balancer seal surface as well unless in really good shape.
     
  15. May 19, 2010
    Project71-5

    Project71-5 BACON

    Gypsum, CO
    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2002
    Messages:
    897
    This is what it looked like when I pulled the cover

    [​IMG]

    It has the slinger but I saw no shedder.

    Back to the seal discussion, the "housing" for the rope packing is staked into the timing cover. Changing to a neoprene seal is as simple as pressing that "housing" out and pressing in the new style seal?
     
  16. May 19, 2010
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    5,263
    2 minutes worth of dremel work and its done.
     
  17. May 19, 2010
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    11,878
    The shedder/slinger are the same thing, just different terminology. It's right there on the crank.

    I'd remove the staking with a file or dremel first so you don't crack the cover. Then it's just a matter of pressing out the old seal retainer, cleaning up the bore, and pressing in the new seal.
     
  18. May 19, 2010
    Project71-5

    Project71-5 BACON

    Gypsum, CO
    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2002
    Messages:
    897
    Sounds good...I think that the seal kit with the neoprene seal is cheaper as well from Napa. Thanks guys!!!
     
  19. May 19, 2010
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    8,360
    If the pan has never been off, I'd pull it and clean the sludge out of it, replace the gasket on the pickup tube, and reseal the pan. Another hour of work total..
     
  20. May 19, 2010
    Project71-5

    Project71-5 BACON

    Gypsum, CO
    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2002
    Messages:
    897
    I took the pan off a few years ago and replaced the pickup tube gasket as well. It was actually pretty clean.
     
New Posts