carter carb choke set up

'74 232....

I know I can adjust the choke by loosening 3 screws and turning the choke coil/cover on the carb left or right. If I position it correctly it will hold the flap in the top of the carb closed. Is this the correct position when the engine is cold? ie..When the engine is cold and I look into the top of the carb, Should the flap be hotizontal or verticle?

Right now I have it set so the coil holds the flap closed. I assume when my newly installed choke stoke kit warms up it will slowly allow the flap to open, and "un choke" the engine.

and as a side question... Does fast idle speed come into play only when the engine is choked? I assume it would allow the engine to heat up faster?

 

Yes it should be closed when choke is on.,it does open slowly as the engine warms up. It may require a bit if fiddling to get it right. The fast idle cam is driven off the coke so as the choke opens the idle speed reduces.

 

Not 100% certain about a YF, but it should have an arm that sticks out for the coil in the cover to attach to. The coil will unwind/rewind with temperature. The coil end has to slide into a slot in the arm so that it positively opens and closes the choke plate as the coil heats and cools.

Yes, exactly... except that it doesn't "allow" the choke to open; instead the coil pulls it open.

 

I will look and take some pics when I get home. I dont think it is set up to pull the choke open...

Ok, cold engine, not running... when the coil/cover are removed, the plate in the top of the carb swings down and goes vertical. The weight of the mechinism make it want to stay verticle. Is that normal or I am missing a spring?

 

Could be ... The YF may be different from what I remember.

On the ones I remember, the end of the bimetal spring coil fits into a slot so that the choke plate is moved both open and closed. The YF may move open passively.

 

Here is a pic from my MC2100 swap.
It works the exact same, just that it swings the other way (mirrored).
Notice the notched tooth in the Choke Housing. That slips over the top of the spring so that the spring controls its movement, and thus the Choke Butterfly.

 

Well apparently the 232 carb is different. I am very sorry about the blurr, my camera sucks....

the pic is from the core I removed. but the reman one is the same, no fork. Gravity opens the choke, the coil holds it closed, when the coil heats up it starts loosing the battle and slowly opens

 

for a second carb question... if you will please help me....

The red screw in the center right of the pic does what?


and....




the gold screw is mixture right?

What is the greeen screw?

And what is that tube sticking out (center/right) that looks like I need to hook a hose to it?

 

BTW - i cant tell you all how much help everyone here is....

 

Red screw is fast idle for the cold setting of the choke, that cam under it is graduated so that the screw doesn't touch when you are warmed up. tach should read 1500 - 1800 rpm. when the engine is warm.
Green screw is curb idle (warm engine). tach should read about 800 rpm.
Gold is mixture. probably can leave it alone, but initial setting would be 1 1/2 turns out from lightly seating it.

Electric or water heated choke -cold engine (sitting overnight is best) - loosen the three screws, turn the cover or center to close the choke so there is like a fingernail width space between the sidewall and the edge of the choke plate. You may have to open the throttle up all the way to get to this position. When you go to start, press the gas pedal once to the floor, then put your right foot on the brake so you don't touch it again, and turn the key to the start position. Once it starts, give it a couple of minutes before you touch the gas again, cause the choke will swing open and the cam will move from your high idle setting.

That help any?

 

Oh yeah. Forgot. That line above the mixture is probably ported for either vacuum advance on your distributer, or is the vacuum connection for your pcv system. You are too new for vacuum wipers. if both your vacuum advance and pcv are already hooked up, then just plug it.
I like to use a short piece of hose with a golf tee inserted in it. I also prefer a manual choke, but that's just me.

Happy Dust Raising!

 

Idle mixture only. The high-speed mixture is controlled by the main jet and metering rod (if I have my YF parts straight ). The proper adjustment for idle mixture is "best lean idle." At operating temperature, from finger tight, turn the idle mixture screw out, say, 2 turns. Set the idle speed with the curb idle screw (green). Adjust the mixture in until the idle just starts to stumble, then back out about 1/8 turn. Readjust the curb idle.

If you bought a carb kit, there should be adjustment instructions included. The adjustment instructions are also present in the FSM.

 

Poke, I just scanned in the adjustment instructions to my Carter YF that I just rebuilt for my 258 along with the adjustment specs. These are the instructions and specs that came with the NAPA rebuild kit. I put it into a pdf format. I'm trying to figure out how to post it. PM me with your email address if you want me to send you the pdf. It might prove to be helpful in adjusting your choke among other things.