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Got CJ5, ideas; need your opinions!

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by jeepboy, Jan 10, 2008.

  1. jeepboy

    jeepboy New Member

    Ok. Most important, I GOT MY JEEP! It runs very good, it shifts good, it handles good... and the steel body is relatively clean dentwise but rust free save for one spot! The little dauntless V-6 is impressive. I grew up in a CJ5 w/ a 4 banger... this is TOTALLY different!
    Here's the skinny: I want it to look great; relatively stock with mild lift for 33" tires but I want it to perform extraordinarily! I want it to be stronger than a normal CJ5 and go wherever I want to go. I don't want a hot rod! Just a clean little Jeep I can drive anywhere, anytime... reliably. Oh, yeah... I've got 2 little boys that love Jeepin with me. Since I won't have a real top, this has to be safe in the event anything ever happens! That said, I've got many ideas (and parts) and I want to know what ya'll think so please, if my plans are flawed, tell me why and give me a better idea! Oh, and one more major thing... I want to keep this thing driveable through the whole build. Naturally I can't drive it when I pull the body or the tranny/tcase... what I mean is, I don't want it to be disabled for long periods of time. Although I really enjoy doing alot of this stuff myself, in this case I think I'd like to be the General Contractor on it if you catch me. I have the money to have the work done by a pro but I don't want to just drop it off and give 'em my checkbook either. Really, I'd like to do it in phases. Understood?
    Now, I need your help to get the best parts and work done but I also need your help on what order to do it in.
    1. The motor is good and strong so naturally, I want to keep it. Just needs to be cleaned up and everything tightened up. I'm sure I'll need some little things here and there but this seems to be the place to look. It has been converted to the HEI ignition and the manual fuel pump has been obsoleted with an electric one. Once I get to the motor, I'll come ask some more questions. It runs too good to mess with first off, I think. Is fuel injection necessary (or available)? I've gotten so used to it with my new stuff, I'd hate it to slosh and sputter or die in a precarious position.
    2. Transmission and transfer case work great too. They leak only a drop or two after being driven a while and warmed up good. I had an old 68 Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 that I scavenged the SM465 4spd tranny (I think. It's the old "rockcrusher" 4 spd w/ the really low 1st gear.) and a Rockwell tcase (I believe it's a T220?) from. These are both very solid and in good working condition so I'd like to install them; you know, for severe duty and more crawl? Naturally, the original stuff is fine for that little V6, and of course, it's original. But really original is not one of my goals. I just like the idea of 3/4 ton guts in such a little rig. This Jeep is shorter than I remembered. Will such gear even fit?
    3. The original axles are in it and seem to work fine. I just got it so of course, the process of elimination has yet to begin. I do have though, original axles from that 68 3/4 ton mentioned above. The front is a D44 w/ closed knuckles and the rear is a GM 12 bolt. Both have 3.73 gears which I know will need to be changed to something lower along with adding lockers and a disc brake conversion. Then comes the question of narrowing them. Considering all this, I might just be better off to buy the new JK D44 axles complete with lockers, discs and closer in width and make them "leaf spring" compatible. That may be the smarter money move. You tell me?
    4. The Jeep leans to the drivers side as do many of these things. That's not a big problem though because I'm gonna either re arch what I have or buy new ones. Here's my question though; considering that I do NOT want to convert it to coils, wouldn't it be nice both in ride and off road performance to put longer, heavier duty springs/shackles (like a fullsize pickup's) under it? I don't have them but since I'm buying new ones anyway, doesn't that make sense? Oh, I've always wondered why they put the leaf springs under the axle? Was it about handling? top heaviness? Why? The u-bolt ends hang way down even if they're short. Can't I just put the new springs over the axle?
    5. Electrically, I'll replace what's in it now entirely. Ironically, everything works fine but I just think its necessary. I'll keep the guages and switches in the factory places mostly (was there more than a speedo?) and keep it clean and uncluttered but I'll add what I need; tach, oil pressure, voltmeter, etc, auxilary lights, winch and so forth.
    6. Body armor and undercarriage protection is necessary as far as I'm concerned. My question specifically is... I've seen that you can buy basically total coverage body armor so, do I get the whole body straightened out and painted only to cover it with armor then paint that too?
    7. The chassis is not bad. No real rust to speak of but of course, it's small and weak. Especially if/when I install bigger, stronger parts. How do I strengthen and improve it cleanly without going nuts?
    Miscellaneous stuff but no less important;
    I mentioned my kids. A full rollcage is not only necessary, it will no doubt be the first "accessory". Are there strong, handsome and ergonomically designed kits for the CJ5 or should I just have one built to my specs? I know there are kits out there but I don't want to kill my leg room either. I want to tie it to the chassis for the full effect. Are there kits to do this?
    Seats/seatbelts likely will be the second accessory. I need the best, most comfortable seats that I can sit in for long periods at a time and control my rig without fatigue from seat/controls incompatibilities. This Jeep will be driven by me only so I will probably build my controls around the seat. I also need the best, most comfortable seatbelts for both front and rear seats.
    Ok, I think I'm done so let me have it.:smash:
     
  2. Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Wow, what a list! Personally I'd just drive it as is for a while before you start changing things, then you could get a better feel for what you want to do first. Do a lot of searching and reading too, everything on your list has been done by others on this forum so someone will have some info for you. In future threads you need to start a thread about one specific item too, rather than a bunch in a thread. :)
     
  3. windyhill

    windyhill Sponsor

    The charm of these old Jeeps is how capable they are in stock form or with minor mods.:) I wheel my cj3b with my kids and we have a blast. I wanted to have it still feal like an old classic Jeep but be able to hold its own. I'm really happy with my setup now, and am building another Jeep with similar mods. I have :v6: swapped in a ford T18 4 speed, have 5:38's in the axles with a warn overdrive, and converted to saggy stearing. These Jeeps are narrow and can be tippy, so I like to stay as low as possable I run about 1.5 to 2.5" of lift. I'm running 32" supper swamper radials. In my new project I'm putting in a dana 30 and a flanged 44 with lockers both ends, and a pto winch, will run 33" or 34's however I have never broken anything on my 3b as far as axles etc. Those "old weak" 10 or 19spline axles hold up remarkably well. I agree with Glenn, wheel it and enjoy for a while then decide. Sounds like a fun project, and welcome aboard!:beer:
     
  4. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Yeah, I'd say drive it. Your ideas will change a lot with some experience with the vehicle.

    Reliability depends a lot on your driving habits. Getting a few trail miles before you start to make any big changes will help to prevent disappointment, and loss of interest, and help to overcome your lack of perspective (sorry - JMO). These Jeeps are remarkably competent in stock form - you don't need to make a lot of changes to go where you want to go.

    Another general point - you're thinking major changes here, and there's no way you're going to do all this stuff and not have you Jeep up on stands for weeks, months, years.

    About the 3/4 ton truck parts - typically they are unsuitable for a CJ. You could use the SM465, but I recall that it's huge ... I'd go with a T18, because it's plenty strong, more compact, better shifting (I presume) and can be adapted to the D18 with junkyard parts. The Rockwell transfer case is likely too wide to fit between the CJ frame rails, and it'll hang down a lot, and be anchor heavy. The D18 you have is fine for most applications.

    I cpuld pick the rest of your list apart (some good, some not so good) but I think most of your list won't survive a year of actually driving the Jeep. Relax, drive it, have fun!

    Cheers! :beer:
     
  5. Brian P

    Brian P Member

    I agree with the Gang, Drive it for awhile first. My 55 CJ has no mods and it goes anywhere I want to go ( and allot of places i probably should not have ) with amazing agility.
    The more I drive it the less I want to change it, mods are ok if that is what you want but like the guys said, Driving it will change your perspective........Give it a chance and have some fun with it as is for awhile (-:
     
  6. blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    Yup Drive it. It will impress you.
     
  7. aallison

    aallison 74 cj6, 76 cj5. Has anyone seen my screwdriver?

    Have a good roll chage made to protect everyone, tie it into the frame and wheel it. I'd add some lockers front and rear. Aussie lockers are good if they have them for your axles. Detriots are better. ARB and OX are selectable but I don't know if they have them for you application.

    Add some new springs with a 3-4" lift, add 32-33's and wheel it. You might need to add a 1" body lift. NO more than 1".

    You don't need 3/4 ton gear under the jeep with 33's. When you fit 36's, up grade.

    Add power brakes and power steering. Search on how to do this.

    Leave the v6 as is until you find you have problems.

    Seats- beard has some good seats. So does Mastercraft. You need to sit in them to see what fits.

    But before you do anthing you really need to decide what you are going to do. You say " I want it to look great; relatively stock with mild lift for 33" tires but I want it to perform extraordinarily" then you want to swap tranny, trans, axles, SOA lift, etc, etc.

    I can tell you if you want the 3/4 ton gear, you might as well start with a frame off rebuild.
     
  8. sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Start by searching the forum and the tech library section of this website.

    We have articles on swapping a SM420 into a CJ-5 which would roughly pertain to the 465 and it's been discussed here before.

    Also I have a few entries in the tech library about fuel injection for the V6 and there's extensive discussion on it here in the past as well.


    But as others have said, drive it first, then decide what needs to be changed before making changes.
     
  9. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    I should have mentioned the roll cage.

    This is a good idea, and you should do it first. I'm not so convinced it should be tied into the frame though. Usually the cage is tied to the body, and the frame moves separately from the body and cage. Lots of discussion about this if you search.

    Take a look at Mike Boyink's cage installation, designed to address the shortcomings of both approaches http://www.boyink.com/splaat/ssdutch-comments/rollcage/
    This is the type of cage you want if you plan to regularly hav backseat passengers.
     
  10. jeepfreak81

    jeepfreak81 When in Doubt, Pedal out!

    If you run 33's with the 3/4 ton running gear you will loose a lot of ground clearance under the axle... you would be worse off then when you started. You also gain width which is not good in tight trails. I would also have to agree to wheel a bit first. I can think of a few things I would recommend, but I won't until you drive it and see what YOU want out of it.

    I have a pretty built YJ, and I have my flatty (on early 5 running gear) and the flatty on 2-3" of lift and 34x9.5 tires with stock axles is EVERY BIT as fun as the YJ, actually it can be more fun as I fit more places. The only thing I want is more turning radius, and I will be doing the D30 swap soon in the front to fix that, and widen the rear to match with some spacers.

    Keep the V6 and D18 (its strong) The D18 is also offset for your offset rear axle. The rear axle is strong, and you can find upgrades for it even.
     
  11. Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Everyone will have different ideas on what the ‘ideal’ jeep is. A lot of that will be based on what you like to do with it – more specifically the trails you run with it as that will be the ‘harder’ fit. The rigs from about ’49 to ’71 are essentially the same basic rig with slight differences – most of that with the body. After being around jeeps (specifically the old flatties) all my life, wheeling in Colorado, and working on them for more years than the grey in my hair wishes to admit I will share my concept of the perfect Jeep.
    Mine is the red ’51 CJ3A I have in my profile. Target was wheeling and still driving 65 with ease – look stock – and run trails up to the ‘buggy only’ ones here in CO.
    Engine – Dauntless 225 built with Kenne Bell parts. I am running a Kenne Bell Number One intake (you can not get these anymore so the Offy Dual Plane is the best choice). Looked at FI and went with the Holley TA470.
    Axles – Front D30, Discs, 4.88s, OX Lockers – Rear Orig D44, Warn FF, Drums, 4.88s, OX Lockers. These sit on HolBrook Long Leafs, with R9000 Shocks.
    Tires (Current) 33x10.5x15 SS (this spring) 255/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns
    Saginaw Power Steering with Tilt Column
    SM465, D18, Warn OD
    Full Cage – PRP Seats – Swinging Pedals – Rear Gas Tank

    With that in mind – I would echo what others have said. Drive it first, you will be surprised at what it can do. Once you do that – you will be able to zero in on what you want to change. I did this last build by taking a system at a time and swapping it out each winter. That way I could still drive it in the summers.
     
  12. jeepboy

    jeepboy New Member

    Wow guys! Thanks for the words. This is exactly what I NEEDED! And sorry it was soooo long. I bought if off ebay on last Friday and simply could not wait to see it and "own" it fully. So I left Dallas Tuesday night at 8pm, drove straight thru to Denver, picked it up by 10am, turned around and was home by midnight Wednesday night!!! As you can see, I'm pretty pumped so my enthusiasm probably got the best of me.
    The reason for ALL the explanation is that although I believe the driver is key and the Jeep will go many places basically stock (that WAS the point originally, I know), I do NOT like breakage on the trail. Your advise is well given and well received. Keep it coming please and pics with suggestions help too.
    BTW, the white CJ6 referrence is almost exactly what I'd like to build!!! What a beaut! The cage is perfect and the way the seats mount to it is ideal!
    Oh yeah, the tranny I have is an SM420.
    I'm gonna love this place!!
     
  13. Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Well thankya...;) The cage could be a bit better in spots but overall is workable.

    Overall I'd agree with the general theme of the responses -- get it serviced, any repairs made and start driving it. The old iron is a whole lot more capable than the Jeep mags and "big dog" websites would have you believe...
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2008
  14. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Mike, tell us what you'd do different, or is that in your blog somewhere?
     
  15. Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    What year is this Jeep?
    I agree, wheel it and find out what you really need to replace.
    Breakage for most of us is not a problem, I have owned and wheeled my Jeep since 92, never broke anything major.
    I run a dana 30 with disk and Aussie locker, I have a 71 model so it has the flanged dana 44 and a powerloc, twin sticked d18 and saginaw power steering. I have crappy 3.73 gears but I intend to cure that this summer by finally installing my sm420.
    These jeeps are alot lighter than the later AMC built cj's and the lite weight helps with breakage issues.
     
  16. Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    I partially cured my high gearing with the T18. I have everything now to put the 4.88 axles in now.....
     
  17. Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    And yes, wheel it, then decide. You will be impressed....
     
  18. jeepboy

    jeepboy New Member

    It's a '58 model, seems all original but does have the later model 225 dauntless v6. Honestly, this thing runs very strong. As a matter of fact, I was just toolin down the road in my neighborhood and not being used to the stiff clutch, shifted and chirped the tires going to third!!!
    Ya'll seem to have alot of knowledge about these suckers. Can you tell me much about it? What's the tranny? Tcase? Gearing? I'd bet money all that is original.
    Also, assuming I do what ya'll suggest and keep the stock goodies in it, if I want to get the guts in the axles totally redone (meaning whatever needs to be redone), can I find parts? And since lockers have proved to be such a huge difference wheeling (as well as disc brakes), are there kits that include this stuff? Can I buy disc brake conversion kits? Can I get a locker front and rear?
    Also, should I re-arch the springs or buy new ones? Its got to sit level! How much of a lift will accommodate 33" tires?
     
  19. kaiser_willys

    kaiser_willys Well-Known Member

    well the stock 700x16 on the military version is roughley 32 inches tall but thet are narrow
     
  20. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Ok, still a long list. Put your reading hat on.

    Look on the ECJ5 tech pages for a review of components. www.jeeptech.com has information about the components.

    No '58 ever came with a V6. Either it's a later ('66-71) with a swapped VIN or the V6 was swapped in.

    Yes, axle parts are still available.

    There's no disk kit that I know of, but there is info on the tech pages. There are kits for 11" drum brakes. Yes, both lockers and LSDs are available. Go to the www.ringpinion.com pages for a review of what's available and comments on each type.

    Don't re-arch; it won't last. Buy new springs. Don't expect too much re level. Jeeps lean. Lots of discussion of lift and tire size in old posts. Search.