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73 cj5 exhaust

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by 2manytoys, Jan 10, 2008.

  1. Jan 10, 2008
    2manytoys

    2manytoys Member

    minnesota
    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2007
    Messages:
    282
    I have been working on my cj for a while and now its time for some mufflers! I have a 360 with fenderwell headers that leak on one side. Also the glasspacks are way LOUD. Should I stay with the fenderwell headers or get in the frame headers? I have been looking for regular manifolds with no luck. I dont like the mufflers under the doors but there is not much room. What is best?
     
  2. Jan 10, 2008
    farfle

    farfle old dog

    Mariposa, CA
    Joined:
    May 14, 2007
    Messages:
    430
    I wouldn't bother going to the trouble of changing to in frame headers. You'll have exhaust leaks with any header, pretty much.
    I can't afford to change mine, so exhaust system fastener tightening is a regular thing.
     
  3. Jan 11, 2008
    DocsCJ5

    DocsCJ5 73 CJ5

    Northern CA
    Joined:
    Jul 5, 2006
    Messages:
    156
    I got my 1973 Cj5 2 years ago. So far, rebuilt 304, T-18 swap and a bunch of other little stuff. I didn't want to go to headers so I had a machine shop drill out the smog stuff (CA) and plug it. I had a shop put in dual exhaust, tucked up in the frame. My only complaint is that it's a little loud, but I still have to replace rusted floorboards and fabricate some sort of solution for the tranny hump. The best part is I don't smell exhaust anymore.
     
  4. Jan 16, 2008
    2manytoys

    2manytoys Member

    minnesota
    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2007
    Messages:
    282
    Picked up a set of manifolds for the 360. No more muffler under the door! The question I have is can you just weld those air holes shut or tap it out and plug it? Will the weld hold on cast? Thanks.
     
  5. Jan 16, 2008
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
    Messages:
    23,596
    You mean the air injection holes? The are already threaded. A 7/16" NF bolt will fit. The neatest fix is with a 7/16" set screw. You can also use a 1/8" NPT plug, but it sticks out a lot.
     
  6. Jan 16, 2008
    mcgillacuddy

    mcgillacuddy Member

    Kalama, WA
    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2007
    Messages:
    316
    Since we are kinda talking about headers...and of course header leaks...I figured I would share a little trick with you guys. I'm sure you all know that a higher quality header will result in less leaks (usually)...but...you can make a run of the mill header work good too. First...they HAVE to be new...if they are used...then there is no point in doing this.
    When you install the headers for the first time...do it as normal...tighten everything down good (and even)...Fire up the vehicle and let it idle, DO NOT DRIVE IT!...let it idle until it hits operating temp. Shut it off and let it cool...Now...when I say "let it cool"...I don't mean for like a few minutes...I mean that the entire engine is cold, as cold as it would be if you did not start it that day. I normally try and do this in the evening...so I can just let it sit overnight. In the morning (or when it's as cold as it will get)...completely re-tighten ALL of the header bolts...don't miss any....Now you can drive it.
    On mine...I check the bolts every now and then (normally when I change oil)...They have the clips that go on the header bolts to keep them from backing out...these work better on higher end header with thick flanges.
    Just for an example...On my old 71 Ford truck...I put a set of cheapo headers on it close to 17 years ago (because I could not afford good ones) They still had the original gasket in them from when I put them on all those many years ago...and never leaked...They would still be running the same way...but I switched motors. I do this with all my headers...and it has always worked very well for me...That...and I normally eliminate the collector flanges (which is not for everyone).
     
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