Need Jerry can lock ideas

I have an old-school can from 1969. Metal. With a metal can you can (with it removed of course) weld a U bolt to the lid, then run a T-bar through that w/ a padlock on the other end of the "T". It's the best I could think of for the mean time.

 

How do you prep the can before welding to prevent it from exploding?Back in high school Votec welding class I asked the instructor about welding gas tanks and never got an answer.

 

What Hi5nCJ means is that you remove the cap from the can before welding on it.

There are several tricks used to weld on gas tanks and cans. One is to fill the can with vehicle exhaust, which eliminates the available oxygen necessary for combustion. Another trick is to fill the can or tank with water after repeated flushing. However, these are not perfect systems and I have seen explosions after these kinds of preparation. My advice would be to take it to a specialist. It's not worth the risk.

 

I used 2", 3/16 strap hinged at two spots. Bottom and top.

 

Hey, I like that. I'm trying to cover the caps, as well, and this seems pretty doable. Nice work on the holders, too. Very clean looking. Makes mine look like the cobbled up bunch of scraps they are. :smash:

 

I used an industrial closed cell foamy type gasket on the strap and inside the holder. It fits very snug and I haven't had any rattling. Of course I didn't add the gasket at first. It only took a couple of miles to decide to though. If you have a gan w/ the eyelets on the cap, as I do, you can run cable through the then through the handle and lock it. Although it may be overkill to try and keep the cap locked. If someone wants to syphon the gas out, they could just as easilly take off your main tank cap & get it from there. Unless of course you have a locking cap on that. Damned thieves! We can't have anything nice without the worry of the bad element f***ing it up for us.

 

Renegade II on this board has these...



If you look hard the strap goes over the cap too in between the uprights on them so they cannot be removed to siphon fuel.

The locks were from a K-tool salesman at Carquest.

This pic shows them better, but he has different cans in this picture and the band doesn't go over the cap -- it does with the steel cans in th epic above though.

 

i have put dry ice and a little amount of water in gas cans before let them set a few mins, then brazed them while the dry ice is still in them.it displaces the oxygen and i had no problem. the cans had not had gas in them for a few months also.

 

Thanks, jeepfreak81. That's pretty much what I have in mind.

 

Here's what I'm ending up with. I decided it was easier to build if I only used one hinge. This means I have to load the can from the back, as the sides don't move all that much. This should be good until I'm much older and totally used up, as opposed to my current weakened state.

The small square piece is welded to the short strap (all 1 x 1/8 inch). One hinge goes between the short strap and the next shortest piece.



Only the finest quality lock for me.


Turns out the limiting thing in this deal is that the caps on my old can and on the new can are different, which means I'll have to mount the other side differently, then remember which can goes where. :smash:

I hate it when that happens. I'll post a photo of the other side when the scotch and dinner wine wear off. R)

 

Nice Job!! That looks good and you could easily glue some foam rubber on the top strap if needed for sound deadening.

 

Good idea with the hinge. I think I'll do something similar for mine.

 

That and either foam or old hose on the side straps if that is necessary. As it is now, the can doesn't move. We'll see when it's full of fuel.

 

That's a great idea... angling the straps. Two birds w/ one stone.

 

Probably a titch late, but here is something along the lines I was thinking.



Could be adapted for upright use easily I am sure.