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Frame up rebuild, what would you do different?

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by aallison, Oct 7, 2007.

  1. aallison

    aallison 74 cj6, 76 cj5. Has anyone seen my screwdriver?

    I am going to be building a CJ6. I have a frame, a tub, a 5 for parts.

    For those that have done a frame up rebuild, what would you have done different? What would have been nice to have done?

    FOr instance, I plan on using quick disconnects so the engine can be pulled eaisly in the future. I want to make the dash so it' easy to tilt down and get behind it to work on electrical problems.

    Any thoughts would be appreciated.
     
  2. jayhawkclint

    jayhawkclint ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

    I will NEVER sand blast again. Paying someone else to do it is worth every penny.

    Buy tires and wheels last.

    Keep front shackles.

    Paint inside of tub instead of bed liner.

    Late model EFI donor, unless you're going the restoration route.

    Late model vac powered discs also worth every penny.

    Front cage tie-in during body work, not paint.
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2007
  3. wheelie

    wheelie beeg dummy 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

    - keep all electrical fastened to tub and put waterproof connectors everywhere else, makes for hassle free tub removal
    - wish I'd have tucked the trans/ transfer up into the frame better with a custom crossmember and skid plate
    - have a Dana 44 built for up front
     
  4. mb82

    mb82 I feel great!

    I would never have started.


    Ok seriously.
    I would have bought a new body
    Kept the stock drivetrain
     
  5. Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Don't go too far overboard on the quick-dissconnects. I did that on Tonk's original rebuild & it just wasn't worth the effort. There aren't that many wires to remove in order to pull the engine anyhow & all you're really doing is introducing extra failure points that are gonna start causing quirky electrical problems someday.

    Same on the dash, I had the speedo & switches all "unpluggable" with Molex plugs, it didn't make the wiring any neater (probably the opposite) & in 10 years I never needed to unplug them :rofl:, if you do the job right with good quality materials you won't *have* any electrical problems back there to begin with.

    If you need to do any amount of body work on the tub get/buy/borrow/beg/steal a rotisserie,
    heres mine with some links to other versions as well-

    http://users.eastlink.ca/~howarde/WhirlyJig.html

    Get lots of storage boxes to hold parts, you'll need'em-

    [​IMG]

    If you don't have a double bay bus garage to work in make sure as much stuff as possible is on wheels of some sort. For those items that are not going to be touched for a while get creative on keeping them out of the way-

    [​IMG]

    Have Fun :twisted:

    H.
     
  6. bkd

    bkd Moderator Supreme Staff Member 2022 Sponsor

    go in with a plan before you remove the first bolt.
    label everything, bags ,boxes, whatever it takes
    allow more time, money than you planned
    Jim S.
     
  7. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    That's an excellent point. Connectors, really any joint held together by just spring or screw pressure, is a liability. The fewer connectors you have, the less trouble later.

    The automobile manufacturers make their harnesses for quick assembly at the factory, not for ultimate reliability. Fewer connectors is better ... you'd rather prevent needing service instead of making service easier.
     
  8. Huntman

    Huntman HIGH ROLLER

    if i had to build again i would have made sure that i focused on one part of the project at a time instead of having multiple things going at once. and i agree with what was said above about painting the inside of the tub not bedliner. i would also do everything you can at once if $ permits i mean like all you axle swaps and stuff like that if you are doing things like that because it so much simplier to do when its apart then later having to takeit all apart.
     
  9. Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Just a point on what I see alot of folks forgetting:

    Plan it - not only the what you want to do, but the order in which things need to be done. I collect parts for a build, then start putting it together once I have all parts in hand.

    Take a note from the pros - plan on putting it all together and taking it apart a couple times. You can do this in stages. I do the running gear and frame stuff. Fit the body, take apart and paint the frame stuff, while I start on the body (after making sure it fits like I want). Then I can mount the body and know it fits.

    Doing this has resulted in a nice repeatable process. I can pull my jeep in the shop at 0900 and have the front apart, and drive train pulled by 1300. Makes it so I don't sweat things if I need to work on it.
     
  10. fletcher0780

    fletcher0780 Member

    I'm in the middle of my build and am curious why people are against the bedliner on the floor. I planned to spray herculiner on my floor but can just as easily paint it if the herculiner is a bad idea. I already have 1 gallon, but I can use it in the bed of my rabbit diesel pickup.
     
  11. jayhawkclint

    jayhawkclint ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

    I actually like it in the '76 beater that only gets washed out when it rains hard with the top down. In the '70, though, I think paint would've looked much more attractive, and may possibly be easier to maintain. Just a couple months old now and already dull and dirty looking, even when it is clean.
     
  12. Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Herculiner:
    [​IMG]

    Paint
    [​IMG]

    Any questions? R)R)

    Add to the visuals the fact that the Herc is too rough for bare feet/bare elbows, oxidizes something fierce (I guess there's a topcoat now), and IMHO it stinks for interior work.

    *Just* on the floor might be OK.
     
  13. sammy

    sammy Coca-Cola?

    Hey, Boyink, how about Rhino Liner? I know it's $$$ but still. My bed floor is wavy and I don't feel like hacking it apart like I have to for my floor boards.

    For the I wish I knews,
    I'd box/label everything, have a dedicated garage, get the parts before I start, invest in stripping ( I may), have the right tools, set more time and $$ aside, learn how to patch sheet metal, frame work, painting... :rofl: I HATE Body work.
     
  14. Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    If you can swing the $$, sure. I couldn't. Paint was just the cheapest/easiest/most repairable/easiest on the skin option. Plus I like color-matched interior and exterior.
     
  15. JeepTherapy

    JeepTherapy Sponsor

    Those pictures are kind of an unfair comparison. The bed-liner was how old in that pic? How fresh was the paint? I thought the paint looked pretty new and the bed-liner looked pretty old. How long until the paint in the floor is all scratched? Take that out wheeling and get some of that sandy mud we have around here on that paint and the shiny is all gone. I think a lot depends on what your going to use your jeep for. I think the paint looks very nice and will continue to look nice in a very well treated jeep.

    I put duplicolor liner in my green jeep on fiberglass. I think it was a very good choice for that jeep. The duplicolor liner wasn't as rough as the liner I used in my snowmobile trailer. Although it wouldn't matter as I don't ever drive my jeep barefoot and have no back seat. I would do it again... If I was building a show jeep I would use paint.

    My last two new trucks I did rhino lining in. It was expensive! But... It looks good and holds up to about any kind of abuse that a typical truck bed would be expected to see. If you want it shiny again rhino liner makes a product to make it shiny again. I have a bottle of it that I have had forever and never felt the need to use it.
     
  16. Homebrew2

    Homebrew2 Member

    My Jeep came with the gray stuff with flecks in it. Seems to have done well over (guessing) a few decades. Does anyone know what that gray product is called and if it's still available? I wouldn't mind doing a little touchup.
     
  17. Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Well, yeah.

    But every Jeep I've seen with the Herculiner -- that wasn't just freshly done - looks like that because it's so hard to wash the dang stuff out. It just traps dirt.

    To me the paint will still look better even worn. And again, for me it was more about the roughness of the Herc. I just skinned my wrist on the stupid stuff where it remains on the fender yet just taking out my alternator....:evil:

    Bottom line for me - as family Jeep that will see alot of barefooted drives to the beach in swimsuits the Hurculiner is just not a friendly coating.
     
  18. aallison

    aallison 74 cj6, 76 cj5. Has anyone seen my screwdriver?

    Thanks for all the input. Guy has a shop next to mine that does a bedliner. Not sure the brand but I've seen it in a scrambler and it looked good. Thought I'd do that but I'm open to options. The tub is fiberglass so it really does not need much. Either paint or liner.

    I need to find pre 76 parts. Does anyone know where I can get parts like windshield hinges and lockdowns.

    Thanks again and keep the suggestions comming.............
     
  19. Huntman

    Huntman HIGH ROLLER

    i did herculiner and its not even a year old and its so faded that it now looks grayish when its supposed to be black. looks dirty even when its pressure washed. paint will scratch but i think that it does look better then the liner does. also i dont know if its just me but my herculiner isnt very durible in high traffic places like under my feet and nest to the gas pedle where my feet rub all the time.
     
  20. sammy

    sammy Coca-Cola?

    Measure twice...cut /order once.