frame painting question..

Ive been searching and just wanted to ask..

On frame metal that has been sand blasted would you still use POR15, rust encapsulator, or somthing else?

I only ask because i know the metal doesnt have rust for POR15 to convert as it is now.

Thanks!

 

I would use Rust Encapsulator or a regular chassis paint. POR-15 is tough, and will stick fine without rust, but it will react with sunlight. They advise that you top coat it if it's exposed.

 

Steve, I blasted, primed, and topcoated w/ TSC implement black over a year ago. No bubbling, peeling, or any other rust related issues and the paint is super hard. POR-15 and a topcoat would certainly be a good way to finish your frame but I don't think it's necessary after sandblasting.

I did use it on my engine after sandblasting (came in the kit) and if you're worried about it adhering, don't. 24 hours after application you can't remove it w/o considerable work (doesn't come off your hands either, has to wear off).:v6:

 

POR15 does not REQUIRE rust to adhere, it simply WILL adhere to rust if it exists. Probably works better without rust because rust is not as stable as clean steel.

 

I sandblasted my frame and then used rust encapsulator followed by chassis black on top of it. Both Eastwood products.

 

I might even consider taking it in to get that balck powder coat that is put on with electricity if you have the extra $$$. This way you never worry about it again.

 

I'd have to disagree. I had a frame blasted and powder coated and it looks terrible after only 2.5 years. Now the coater may have done a siht job, but for me it's not worth the cash. 2k Ceramic chassis black FTW.

 

Three year old post, resurrected!

I would not answer the same today. Now I would coat bare metal with epoxy primer, then top coat with my choice of chassis paint. Black epoxy primer would be ideal... but only for bare, bright steel, ie a newly sand blasted frame.

On clean, rusty steel, like you'd get by wire brushing rusty steel, I would still use Rust Encapsulator.

 

I blasted and used chaissis paint and within a year or so, the frame was all scratched up.
the paint got scraped off while wheeling and rust appeared where the paint was scraped off.
the blasting and chassis paint was not cheap just to have it get scraped off by rocks, logs, ect.. my brother used truck bed liner to do his frame. I tried it on my next project and loved it.. durable as all get out. won't come off very easly. It was on the frame for about 3,4 years before I sold it and the frame still looked good.. just an idea.

 

I was reading about using ospho to convert the rust then straight penetrol as a rust encapsulator and painting over top with your basic rustoleum. Its cheap, easy to install especially if your not removing the body. Just wonder how it will hold up, any thoughts?

 

Tried Ospho and it did not work real well. Permatext makes a rust converter that makes a great product but it's kinda spendy.

I've tried many different products and so far, none work 100%. I think I'll try the Eastwood products next time. The TSC stuff is good if you use the hardner it seems to work better. The epoxy primmer I have seems to work great. Problem i has rust seems to develop in the welds and corner and cranies. I think I need to get a decient small sandblaster and the rest of my life I'll have to keep on top of the rust.

 

I am using Chassis Saver on my '72

http://www.monstaliner.com/monstaliner_how_to_stop_rust.htm

 

I sandblasted my frame and used a marine paint AMERON. My whole project is coverd with ameron products. It is a two part paint and seems to be very durable. the frame I used a 235 primer and 385 or psx 700 top coat. The frame turned out great. The nice thing about the Ameron products is that they make a sealer you can apply to any rust or even the whole frame prior to the primer and it will seal the applied area and stop the oxidation. It works like a champ, we use it on the fire boat so it is proven. It is a bit pricey though.
The finish is hard and durable

Dave

 

Pro Tech makes a product called Iron Pro Direct-To-Metal black satin enamel. It's tough and it dries a lot faster than the TSC brand. Not as hard as a 2K or epoxy but for $30 a gal. it's pretty good. BTW, the TSC gloss black with hardener looks GREAT if you like shine.