frame hole filling - did a search and...

Well I didn't find much info on the subject. The question is what would be the ideal method for filling all the frame holes? Mig, Tig ??

A friend says he would use Tig and weld up the small holes, use plugs for the big ones!

The frame is a 73-4? and in areas is peppered with holes (motor mounts and such) I will be boxing the frame after I layout all mounts and crossmembers etc.

Any theories, ideas and experience would be GREATLY appreciated!!!

Thanks, Dale

 

For what purpose? Strength? I think the welds will cause more cracks than they'll prevent.

 

X2 I've had plenty of cracks form on my frame and I've never seen one of them originate from an existing hole. They always start at the bottom lip of the frame and travel upwards.

 

I've filled a few frame holes on a couple different vehicles and didn't have any problems. I use my MIG adjusted for the thickness of the frame. Use tacks to fill in the hole, then grind smooth and paint. I do this for holes up to 3/4" or so. Use plugs above that. If you're worried about cracking, you can anneal the patch area by heating the plug and an inch or so around the weld to a dull red, then let it cool slowly. That should eliminate any hard spots in the metal.

 

I'm not a welding expert but there is something about a heat affected zone. That's the area near the weld that got hot enough to change metals property, but has enough cool metal around it to cause it to quench quickly. You can chase the heat affected zone around, and you can even make it bigger, but you can't make it go away without some fancy trickanery. Guys who weld frames for a living know this magical art and that's why there are guys who weld frames (vs just some shmo with a buzz box, like me). Welding on a frame isn't a no-no. It can be done to great effect. But it doesn't seem like the kind of thing I'd do just to get rid of some holes.

But you said you were going to box the frame anyhow, and that third side isn't just going to attach itself so I imagine you're welding on a frame either way. Don't NOT do it because of my post. But at least get worried enough to learn how to do it right and how to not screw up. Obviously you are doing just that by posting your question. Welding on a frame is not trivial.

 

Well I read the other opinions and some good points were mentioned.Myself i welded about 200 holes in my ford pickup frame with the mig . the easy way is to clamp a piece of copper or brass on back side,weld up hole,remove backing and grind smooth and paint.I filled the holes in because it's a show/hotrod kinda thing.4 link w/coilovers rear .mustang-2 coilovers front.i plan on repairing the frame on the cj-5 project.has many cracks,old repairs,and a lot of extra holes.

mike s.

 

Hummm, good feed back, it's funny, there are some cracks in the frame and they do originate from holes or factory rivets!! I was going to V grind and weld them up, as most will be, in the "new" frame, or won't be in as much of a stressful place.

I do some blacksmithing and am aware of heat treating and stress relieving, I aslo worked for "Generous Electric" (years ago) that used to pre heat turbine housings to 900 dgrs. before welding. I think THAT is the key to keep the frame from warping to much, pre heat, weld (here and there, all over 'til its done), then heat again and cool slow (well as slow as possible) this should anneal the steel enough to effectivly stress relieve it. Then box, using the same thoughts as above. BUT, of course there is room for discussion, LOTS of discussion! Isn't there???

Thanks, Dale

 

I guess maybe the question should be... where are the guys that weld on frames for a living, I would pay for info or contract to have the work done (within reason).

My understanding of how steel behaves is just enough to get me in trouble, the guys that have the WORKING experience is where it's at.

Anybody know of these guys???

Thanks, Dale