1974 CJ5 Brake Light Switch

I tried to install a new switch today, but I still don't have any brake lights. I get tail lights so I know it isn't a bad ground at the light. I have the switch wired as follows:

batters------switch------lights

Pictures are below of the switch mounted on the m/c rod. When I push the pedal, I can see the switch move a little bit and then stop. I think it is stopping because it cannot physically move anymore due to how the switch is made.

Is this correctly set up? Any one else have pictures I can use as reference?









Thanks,
Scott (extremely mad at his Jeep right now)

 

I had the same switch on my '73, didn't like it, so changed to a pressure switch. Buy it at your FLAPS for under $10, screw it into the hole in the bottom of your master cylinder and wire it up. Mine works great and much easier to get to you if you ever need to replace it again.

 

If I can't get this one to work maybe I will, but I want to see what is wrong if anything before I try another switch.

 

I'm sure there's someone on this forum that knows how to make them work properly. I just couldn't get mine to work reliably, got frustrated and changed it out.
BTW it looks like yours is installed properly.

 

Did you lose a lot of fluid when you changed switches? Enough to where you had to flush brakes and go through that whole mess?

 

Nope...pulled the plug and just a drop or two came out. Put teflon tape on the switch and screwed it in. Didn't have to bleed the brakes.

 

FLAPS? Is that your local autoparts store? I called all the local ones around me and none of them carry one, I have to order it online if I want it.

 

Most places should have one. It's a standard pressure type brake light switch with a 1/4" NPT (National Pipe Thread) if I remember right. I bought mine at Autozone and they had it in stock.

Sorry....Friendly Local Auto Parts Store

 

Been reading this forum for 2 1/2 years, this is my first post, but I can relate a similar experience. I cleaned every connection, replaced every wire with any hint of corrosion, new bulbs, cleaning and scraping, on and on. No matter what I did, sometimes they would work, sometimes not. Drove me nuts. Hooked up with a friend who runs an old Willys. With total confidence, he told me to take the turn signal switch apart (the original Sparton on the column). I did...inside was all gunky & nasty. Turns out that sometimes the thing wouldn't quite return to center, causing my intermittent. All is well now. Best advice he gave me is that if you're gonna work on one of these old things, you need to have two friends always by your side. Mr. Persistence, and Mr. Patience. He forgot to tell me about Mr. Moneybags...

 

I bypass the column though. But I agree, Mr. Patience is leaving lately.

 

farfle is probably correct (could be a couple things, that is most likely).

Also, I was helping ArleyC out with his wiring, you might find this helpful.
http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?p=488121#post488121

The brake switch only moves just enough to make contact, there is not much travel at all, you can test it with an ohm meter.

The correct wiring sequence is
Brown wire from=light switch to=brake switch
Brown wire from=brake switch to=turn signal

Orange wire from=turn signal to=passenger rear brake/turn
Light Blue wire from=turn signal to=driver rear brake/turn


The brake wire goes into the the TS because the TS allows the brake lights to blink when the blinker is on. So if your TS is all corroded or gunked up it could be interfering with your brakes. Don't bypass this as it will not allow blinking if you press on the brakes.
Also, keep in mind that your taillights are light headlights, they have a separate high and low "beam" filiment (parking vs brake). They will have two hot wires in and then one ground on the side.
The yellow wires are your taillights (you said they work), so check the light blue and orange wires. Also, make sure that your bulbs are good, the bright filaments could be burned out.

And make sure that your wires aren't crossed. If so, your parking brakes would activate the brake lights which would mask the dimmer brake lights (wrong). This would be obvious with the parking lights off, you would see dim brakes lights when activated.

The TS is really easy to take apart and clean, just take your time.

 

I understand that the wiring is supposed to go through the turn signal so that I can have both functioning turn signals and brake lights. I don't have a turn signal switch hooked up in my Jeep. The PO never had one. Therefore, I just decided to bypass the stock wiring. I also have semi lights as brake lights. I took one out and took it to the battery. I hooked up the tail light wire to the battery and it lit up dull (1 filament), I then touched the brake wire to the battery at the same time and it lit up bright (2 filaments). I thought to myself, since I don't have turn signals or a switch, why not just go directly from the battery to the switch to the lights. Apparently either the switch isn't working, I have a bad connection, or for some reason you cannot bypass the switch.

Scott

 

Can someone explain to me why my above theory of wiring directly from the battery wouldn't work? Is it that is won't work, or I just don't have it working?

Thanks,
Scott

 

Sorry to say that it sounds like you have a wiring problem.
It should work.

Its just a switched 12V circuit with the brake switch as the switch.

Steps:
1) test your switch, make sure its closed when depressed
2) run a long test wire from your brake switch to your brake light. If it makes the light work (with pedal depressed) then you know your problem is somewhere between switch and light. If not, test the ground, you should be able to use your ohm meter to test, red to positive lead, then black to some other piece of frame steel (not ground bolt).

Unfortunately, I think you just have an issue of debugging. Neither of my brake lights worked and it was bad wiring on both sides. Replace any/all splices/solders.

Good Luck

 

^That is how I have it wired now, from the switch all the way back to the light with a new wire. Time to go buy a multi-meter and get testing.

Just want brake lights so I can drive on back roads instead of my apartment lot to get a feel of the Jeep. (and of course go wheeling)R)

Thanks,
Scott