Plan of attack

Okay first hi been lurking here reading what I can so I dont come off as a total idot but oh well enough dreaming of things not to be and here goes.

I have a 1968 CJ-5 with a 225 dauntless and I believe a 3 speed T-86 tranny.... well I think thats right.

It get (100 pct guess here ) to about 45 ish miles a hour SUPER low geared frankly think I could start off in 3rd. It came with a snow plow (this was the excuse for buying it to the wife) .

My intensions are to band-aid it up some to is easier on the eyes and use it to plow with. Down the road it will be my sons first car and money sink. In the mean time snow plow and back up vehicle for me.

Now while buying a new car for wife I got a free paint job for it (im sure it will only last a year or two but for now its easier to look at).

I have a hard top for it but saddly I believe I was taken as it (tho i will confirm once back from painting) seems to be a hair to long (3" or so from my best guess) I plan to get a soft top either used or new.

Now what I'm unsure of now is what route and cost I will go. I want to (or think I want) get it so I can do 65-70. This will let me use it as a back up vehicle with out adding hours to my drive... but not sure if that will be with in my means.

I plan to go though the engine, replace points with electronic, maybe some small upgrades (what is cheap and easy to do to help with its day to day relieablity or milage/life)?

Brakes? Should I think of converting to disc or upgrading it so when they day comes my son is safer? How much does such a upgrade cost and is it needed for what I want from it?

Shocks and springs... The shocks are nearly rotted away springs look fair. I had considered getting a 2" lift kit just to replace everything not because I really want the lift. Is this something I should bother with or will it be something I would regret due to the plow? Or should I just wait and make son do it

I will be getting a roll bar put in. I have bought a new wire harness kit. Is there any other things that I should be sure to look at? Overdrives are they the route to go to achieve the higher top speed? Is changing the gearing expensive, hard, or worth doing? Again If I do use it as a normal vehicle it would be mainly just as back up for 5+ years so am I better leaving the gearing as I might need the power for plowing?

Oh and the snow plow as runs off a belt on the engine seems like that would really drag down the milage as its always going is it possible the hydrolic pump is so minor it wont matter much or should I consider a newer set up that runs off the battery?


Anyhow I have searched around a bit sounds like the overdrive is what I will want but just want to be sure. Alot of the work will probably be done with help from a local guy for pay with me helping so its not super costly. He seems to know alot about jeeps but I hate to blindly trust anothers views.

Oh and I have no intensions in this life time to accually use this to mud, rock climb or 4wd with this..... but I guess thats probably what they all say just like the millions of innocent prisoners. I SWEAR THO I mean it!!!!

 

get ready to spend some money at least i have spent alot more than i expected

 

ya I know but I figure I can do some baby steps for a few years and still keep it workable.

I plan on droping 1500-3000 on it this year hoping to keep it more around the 2,000 mark.

 

Gotta be.

 

I'd go with the overdrive as that will allow a higher top speed and still keep the lower gearing for plowing and other things. Changing diff gears can get real spendy real fast, especially if you can't do it yourself.

I'd go with 11" drum brakes minimum. I prefer discs on my vehicle but 11" drums will work fine for what you want to do and will be much safer than what came stock, especially if your son will be driving it at a later date.

Steering. Make sure the steering is in good shape or convert to saginaw. Saginaw steering was the best upgrade I ever did in my Jeeps right next to better brakes.

Rollcage/rollbar. Safety is everything. At least put a roll bar in. They can be had used from time to time for pretty inexpensive. A full cage would be even better but can be expensive depending on how elaborate you go. A roll bar will allow you to add a front hoop and spreader bars at a later date as funds permit.

Shocks and springs. I can't remember who makes it, maybe Rancho, but there is a set of springs available that are only 1" over stock. Yours are probably sagged anyway so you will probably feel like you are getting a significant lift with 1" lift. Shocks. Recommended adjustables so you can "tune" your suspension to your needs. Regular old hydraulic or gas shocks tend to be on the stiff side and can cause a harsh ride. Really makes a difference.

Make sure lighting and electrical system is in good shape/repair. Upgrading the battery and if stock the alternator is a great way to go since you have a new harness anyway. Stock the alternator only put out about 37 amps max. Should be able to upgrade to 60-80 amp unit very economically. The 10 or 12 si internally regulated unit is a great way to go and really puts out the amps. Cleans up the wiring too.

There's lots more to cover but this gets the ball rolling. Don't be afraid to ask questions here and welcome! By the way, we'd really like pics! A digital camera is really helpful when tearing stuff apart so you can see how it goes back together and can be had pretty inexpensively.
Nickmil

 

Do you have a steel cab, not fiberglass? If so, there's only one CJ-5 cab from 1955-75. The steel cab from later models will be shorter, not longer, than the earlier cabs since the windshield tilts back more. Post some pics and we can help identify your cab.

 

Getting a camera today and should be picking up jeep from the paint shop thursday.

Thanks for the list of things to look for I will post pictures and the info thursday.


Thanks a ton for the list of things to look for and ideas.

Let me get some measurements of the cab up for now and ill post pictures when I get the darn camera figured out and working.
________________
|_______________|
| top is 70" (1.75" lip on back so really about 68")
|
|
|
| 38.5"
|______|

its about 59.5 " wide

Ill get some pictures up later and try to get better measurements

Oh and its metal not fiberglass

 

Welcome from Denver! Fill out your profile and tell us where you are! Might be someone nearby.

On the brakes, you might want to consider the dual-chamber master cylinder kit from Herm the Overdrive Guy. Separates the front and rear brakes into two different systems, so if one fails you'll still have the other. YOU may not need this if you're not going off-road, but your son might in the future. He might turn into an off-roading maniac, you never know!

 

Was so rusty couldn't read it but in one of the pictures of the front differential stamped into it was a couple numbers one was 27A and below that to right side was "682" don't suppose those mean anything do they?

Not sure to be honest it was just how it felt I will have to check when i get it runing again

About 27" the tires on it are P235/75/15 I assume the 15 means 15" rims.

The ones on it are retreads so I will probably buy some before winter or with in the near future when i settle what im going to do with the lift if anything

so now what do i do to figure out the gearing?

Yes it did got a picture of it too so what does it mean to have that metal window on it?

Here is a link to the photo's I got of it Here

 

oh updated my profile and thanks for the duel master cylindar idea I guess I could be nice enough to set my son up on that one.

 

If I'm not mistaken you should already have 10" brakes and a dual master cylinder. You have a Delco distributor which means you can put a Pertonixs electronic ignition in the distributor housing. You have a factory dana 27 front and dana 44 rear. Your gear tags are missing on both axles, if stock you have either 4.88 or 3.73 gears, if it revs the way you say they are probably 4.88's. I would put 31" tires on there, that will help with the driving for sure and will still fit with stock lift. That will make you running about 3200rpm at 60mph, the overdrive would reduce it to 2400rpm. Which would allow you to do 70mph easily.
As far as upgrades the saginaw steering and front disks or 11" drum brakes all around are a big upgrade that is very very noticeable. It also looks like you still have all your smog equipment in tact, that in itself is a miracle. Another good upgrade is to go to a larger alternator (60-75 amps over the stock 35 amp) and halogen headlights, the alternator will also get rid of the voltage regulator since the new alternaor will be internal.

 

So question is why would I not go with disk brakes all around? Is it that expensive or just that much of a over kill to not bother with?

31" tires are still do able on the rims I have I take it?

As for the steering how price is that and how labor intensive? ... nm I think I remember a link covering that I will look it up.

Would you think I would be better off getting a lift kit so i can redo the suspension or do you think since im not nuts about getting a lift I should just replace the shocks and such and leave rest for my boy when hes old enough.

Mind you my main reason is plow and back up vehicle.... tho my brother does a mud pit behind his house but I dont know if I would mess around there but maybe once just to shut him up I really dont enjoy breaking things and any time we get together something is bound to get broke or hurt....

Can you get those halogen head lights to fit in just like orginal. Reason I ask is because I just bought new stainless steel trim parts hated to put on the old stuff with a new paint job.

Oh... smog stuff do I care about that? Being as im in michigan is it really something I need to be sure to keep in working order .... or even attached

 

They make standard round halogen bulbs that are direct replacements. 4 wheel disks are kinda overkill to some degree, I have front disks and the factory 10" drums and can lock them up virtually anytime I want. You'll have to find out about the rims since we don't know for sure how wide they are.

 

Nickmil

 

Im working on setting him up with a vehicle and hes only 8 atm..... now you want me to worry about him breathing... gees how much do I have to do for him for god sakes

Thanks for the info guys the tires seem narrow to me but I will have to get some more measurements when it gets back to me.

 

I know the feeling. My daughter is 12 and keeps asking when we are starting on her Jeep. I have an extra frame sitting there and keep telling her when she gets the rust wire wheeled from it!R) Nickmil

 

So let me see this is my list semi in order as I see it.

1) Get it to run again (thinking the electronic ignition and maybe some minor engine stuff.

2) Roll Cage

3) Saginaw Steering

4) Suspension (probably the 1" lift)

5) Convert to disk brakes

6) New Tires 31" (will probably need new rims too I'd guess as mine are pretty narrow (can save them for winter work)

7) Overdrive set up

Figure best to get the others done before I try to go faster with it.

Thanks for the info guys Ill let ya know how far my money lasts on the list...