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dana 30 upper ball joint

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by linckeil, Mar 23, 2007.

  1. Mar 23, 2007
    linckeil

    linckeil Member

    Danbury CT
    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2004
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    492
    in the yoke on the dana 30 axle where the upper ball joint sits, there is a threaded split ring that threads into the axle housing. it looks like a special tool is needed to unthread and remove it from the axle housing. my question is why is it there? i am rebuilding the axle and is there any need to remove it? why would it be there for the upper ball joints and not the lower ball joints? once i press new ball joints into the knuckles, i plan to reinstall them and do not see the need to remove this piece. so can anyone tell me why it's there and why it is replacable? and should i bother to remove it? if i do remove it, should i replace it with a new one? where would i get a new one if need be? thanks!
     
  2. Mar 23, 2007
    wally

    wally SSSSTER

    upper merrimack...
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2005
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    554
    it sets the preload on the joint, both upper and lower.

    don't need to replace it, unless the mating surface is badly pitted.

    the tool can be had for about $10.00. unfortunately, when i did my disc conversion, i snapped mine in half. :mad:

    i suppose napa would be able to get one :?

    *edit: i believe this is the reason the ball joints can be difficult to remove. the upper ball stud rusts/freezes to the mating surface of this locking ring, making them difficult to separate. a ball joint separator fork works very well to accomplish that. i usually wedge it between the upper part of the yoke and knuckle, and tap the end of the fork. pop.
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2007
  3. Mar 23, 2007
    linckeil

    linckeil Member

    Danbury CT
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    Aug 19, 2004
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    492
    thanks wally. how do i determine if i have the proper ball joint preload during assembly? what tool is used to measure ball joint preload? or is it simply enough to adjust this split nut to the point where there is no slop?

    both of these nuts turn in the yokes for me without a problem, so thats a good thing.....
     
  4. Mar 23, 2007
    JeepTherapy

    JeepTherapy Sponsor

    Negaunee, Michigan
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    Jun 29, 2006
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    Typically they thread right out after the ball joint is removed. The new ball joint should come with one. I am going to take mine apart yet again as I don't like the way mine adjusted. I have more of the sleeve sticking out than I like. You can not turn them once the ball joint is seated into it without removing it.
     
  5. Mar 23, 2007
    wally

    wally SSSSTER

    upper merrimack...
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    Jun 12, 2005
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    the nuts aren't usually the problem. mine came apart easily, too. the upper ball studs didn't want to come out, though. that fork really came in handy.

    not sure on the preload. i probably put too much, since i broke the spanner wrench. :oops: the manual does explain it decently, if you have one.
     
  6. Mar 25, 2007
    linckeil

    linckeil Member

    Danbury CT
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    Aug 19, 2004
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    492
    how has anyone else that has replaced dana 30 ball joints dealt with this adjustment?
     
  7. Mar 25, 2007
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
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    Reffered to FSM for specs and procedure. That would be the logical thing to do.
     
  8. Mar 26, 2007
    coby61

    coby61 Stupidiotic Member

    Prunedale CA
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    Mar 10, 2004
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    I think torque to 25 ftlbs IIRC
     
  9. Mar 26, 2007
    JeepTherapy

    JeepTherapy Sponsor

    Negaunee, Michigan
    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2006
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    25lbs is a lot less than what I used. But I wasn't happy with how mine looked after I did them. There are a lot of torque values floating around out there. I used the one that came with the ball joints. I took pictures of it, can't find them right now. I will get some new ones. As I recall the ball joint instructions had it torqued to 75 ft lbs. Somewhere else I remember reading 45ft lbs.

    I did mine last year and my memory is foggy. I have all my manuals out in the garage, will pull them and look next time I am out.
     
  10. Mar 26, 2007
    linckeil

    linckeil Member

    Danbury CT
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    ya, if i had one i probably wouldn't have to ask this question......

    thanks coby, thats the info i was looking for!
     
  11. Mar 26, 2007
    linckeil

    linckeil Member

    Danbury CT
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    Aug 19, 2004
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    that would be great. its not going back together for a while yet, so whenever you have a chance. thanks
     
  12. Mar 26, 2007
    JeepTherapy

    JeepTherapy Sponsor

    Negaunee, Michigan
    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2006
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    http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PDFs/Federal_Mogul_4X4_Balljoint_installation.pdf

    http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PDFs/front axle ball joint adjustment.pdf

    (sorry to link from another board, but that was the only place I found the documents.)

    link to moog install instructions. I would like to see what the FSM has to say about it, I have the hard cover chiltons and I think I still have a paperback chiltons and haynes. I know the 70 was too much torque in my case. I still haven't fixed it though.
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2007
  13. Mar 26, 2007
    coby61

    coby61 Stupidiotic Member

    Prunedale CA
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2004
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    388
    OK 1974 FSM states Dana 30 CJ
    Lower ball joint nut 1st to 80 ft lbs
    Upper ball joint stud seat 2nd to 50 ft lbs
    Upper ball joint nut 3rd to 100 ft lbs. Tighten until pin can be installed.

    25 lbs is the the max breakaway for the knuckle when finished. You can use a large fish scale.

    :) Hope that helps!
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2007
  14. Mar 26, 2007
    linckeil

    linckeil Member

    Danbury CT
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    great information. thanks guys.
     
  15. May 4, 2007
    Chuck

    Chuck Sponsor

    Southshore Ma
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  16. May 4, 2007
    wally

    wally SSSSTER

    upper merrimack...
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    that's the place where i got mine from. i broke it. :(

    they're probably all the same [wrenches, that is], be it napa, carquest, .....
     
  17. May 4, 2007
    Chuck

    Chuck Sponsor

    Southshore Ma
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    I looked at about 7 different vendors and they were all selling what looked to be the same tool ranging in price from $10-$36 so I chose the less expensive one.

    I did see a spanner wrench that appeared to be well made for $80.
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2007
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