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frame beef

Discussion in 'Flat Fender Tech' started by 4dawudz, Jan 25, 2007.

  1. Jan 25, 2007
    4dawudz

    4dawudz Dale

    ADK NORTHERN New...
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    Nov 25, 2006
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    166
    My old '57 CJ5 frame is getting to thin and I need to replace it! I have a '74 5 frame (3" longer) and I want to strength'n it by filling holes and boxing it. On my old frame I oxy/acet. welded box sections in,in high load areas.
    The question is what is the prefered way to weld on a frame, MIG, TIG or stick and what rod/wire? Also the idea of welding up the unused holes? I do have some punchings from a machine shop to fill holes so there isn't to much heat buildup welding? I just saw an art. on beefing a frame and they used 3/16th cold rolled plate (they said it was more uniform and stronger) I was going to use 1/8th plate for the box. AND if you box the frame is there a prefered way to access the frame for the trans/transfer cross member, and other brackets that need to be removable, welding nuts to the inside, drill holes in the box section and etc.???

    Hey, Thanks, Dale
     
  2. Jan 25, 2007
    willysworker

    willysworker Member

    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2003
    Messages:
    172
    Mig is OK and what I do. Tig is best, but not for most. I boxed mine with 1/8". Some strap the top also. I did not. I don't like a nut welded inside the frame. Locating it is a one shot deal and if you trip the threads you are *&^%. I like to use bolts though a boxed frame. Just sleeve the frame(over drill the hole and slip a pipe nipple in the frame and flush weld) so you won't crush it.
     
  3. Jan 27, 2007
    4dawudz

    4dawudz Dale

    ADK NORTHERN New...
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    Nov 25, 2006
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    Yes, I have done that sleeve thing with my spring reversal, shackel through the frame thing, I like that! I was going to use 1/8" plate for the box, how 'bout using a chunk of flat plate (rather than an a nut) so if you strip the threads you can drill and retap to a larger size?
    To add, I understand that frames are more of a high tensile (carbon) steel than mild steel (hence the name mild) and friends (?) said that welding, even with a mild steel rod, that the parent metal will give a mix that will give a strong union. I also understand that welding, an inch here and an inch there, is better than a continuous weld run, read reduced warping.
    At one time I saw a jeep racer that strapped his frame with 3/8x1.5 flat stock??? I'm sure it made it stronger, but what a way to get a 3/4" body lift???
     
  4. Jan 31, 2007
    4dawudz

    4dawudz Dale

    ADK NORTHERN New...
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    Nov 25, 2006
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    Maybe I should ask the question, what is everybody welding with? I am using a stick welder (lincoln 225) and my favorite rod is 6011, I also have the oxy-acetylene set up
    I am thinking about buying a new one am am wondering what everybody else is using and for what???

    Thanks, Dale
     
  5. Jan 31, 2007
    jd7

    jd7 Sponsor

    Nacogdoches,Texas
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2004
    Messages:
    1,745
    If you use that well it works. I still use my stick for my frame work.
     
  6. Jan 31, 2007
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2003
    Messages:
    5,473
    Moved from a Lincoln stick to a Millermatic 175 a couple years ago. The hard part was to teach my hand NOT to move down as the wire burned. I really looked at Miller, Hobart, and Lincoln and liked the variable control I get with the Miller. One of the best swaps I have done as I can now weld body metal with the mig instead of oxy (have that too).
     
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