Front Hubs problem - 1980 CJ5

Well, finally had time to test out the old girl after the holiday travel. Here is an interesting situation that maybe someone can give me direction.

Facts:

With the hubs turned to allign with 4 wheel drive and assuming that the front wheels are engaged, and with the driver side transfer case stick (its been twin sticked)in neutral, the passenger side stick in 4 high, I can see the front drive shaft from the transfer case turning the differential...but the front wheels are not turning.

In addition, with someone seated in the cab and pressing the accelerator pedal, I can see the passenger side "knuckles" between the inside of the wheel and axle shaft is turning, but without the wheel turning (as though the hub is still in 2 wheel). The driver's side has no movement in the shaft from the differential to the wheel.

One of the more experienced gentlemen we know suggested that the "hub" may not be engaging the inside "spline" of the passenger wheel. I am planning to pull the hubs and see if the passenger side hub is broken.

Question:

If the hub on one front wheel fails to engage, causing a freewheeling of the axle, would the driver side receive no torque (consequentially have no movement) in the axle, knuckles or wheels?

Any caution in removing one or both wheel hubs and replacing? Any suggestions as to brand or type I should be looking for?

Note:

1) The driver side "Hub" has no trouble in twisting the switch from 2 wheel to 4 wheel positions.

2) The passenger hub is relatively tight and has difficulty in fully aligning itself with the 4 wheel position using finger/hand/elbow leverage.

3) I removed the shifter floor plate allowing me to see the transmission and Dana 300 transfer case. The P/O had twin sticked the transfer case.

4) In testing (playing) I was able to shift all levers into their respective positions (whith some trial and effort).

Again, thanks for all your input.

 

sounds indeed like a locking hub problem.
I would jack the suspect wheel up, and then play with the hub before removing it; watch for the axle to turn when engagement is achieved; spin the tire; no engagement, take it off and inspect.
Worst case scenario would be bad/stripped spider gears and/or axle splines at the differential.

 

With an open differential it would be normal to experience what you describe if one of the hubs is not engaging the axle.

 

Re-examined the hubs this morning...it appears that the passenger side hub "gear" (the sliding gear wheel which engages and dis-engages the four/two wheel lock-up) was bound up inside the hub preventing it from engaging the front wheel drive.

Happily, Napa Auto Parts was open until four this afternoon (Sunday, December 31). I got a pair of Warn hubs which fit the 80 CJ. The broken hub is an "AVM Heavy Duty Spring Manual" whose insides look like they were stamped from a soda can.

Tomorrow, and with the help of my neighbor (from whom I will borrow his torque wrench), I will install the new hubs and hope all is well in my world.

Thanks for the moral support. All have a very happy and prosperous New Year.

 

Just a quick update, got the front hubs installed on Monday, I now have front wheel drive capability...good for me.

Possibly a stupid quesiton, but I'll ask anyway:

The Warn hubs came with both flat and locking washers in the kit and the instructions said to use those washers with four wheel drive vehicles other than a jeep. It indicated that I should use the original washers I took off from the "original" hubs (if any) and use those with the new equipment.

Since there were no original washers from the broken AVM hubs and the washers provided with the kit hung over the flange plate of the replacement hubs (looking sorta ugly)...I initially installed without using any washers between the flange plate and bolts...should I have?

Should I go back and install the washers? Other than as a test, I haven't driven the jeep much (still a few other things to do).

Thanks for your input.

 

I use Locktite on the hub bolts. They do tend to loosen. Sometimes alot, in a hurry.

 

Posimoto:

Makes sense...originally torqued the bolts to 30 lbs per the instructions, do you still think I may need to loctite?

If so, do you recommend blue loctite for these bolts?

If I go this route, should I install the lock washers or leave off, any thoughts?

Being new to this game, I appreciate all your input. Thanks once again.

 

I use the blue Loctite. I shoot a blast of Brakecleen into the holes, and then blow them out with compressed air to get them really clean. I don't use a lot of the Loctite. Usually just a strip down one side of the threads. Unless you have the lockwashers with the bend-over tabs on them, they won't hold squat by themselves.

 

I actually have a set of the original oddball shaped washers. The washers are shaped so they won't rotate and then the lock washer locks to the special washer. I keep loosing them from breaking bolts tho

 

Talked to the local Jeep Rebuild (and parts) place...like you all, they recommend teh locking washers and the flats. Appears that the flat washers for the kit have a bending capability (cold chisel) to keep them from rotating. I will change them up this weekend...possibly tonight and torque them when I get a chance later this week.

Thanks once again.