She dies at about 100 yards

My jeep '65 cj5 with '67 225 will go about 100 yards and start to die or just stall altogether........then start back up.

Most tune-up items have been done but the points, cap, condenser, and the fuel pump.

I had the carb rebuilt (didn't want to screw it up) and the guy said most likely it's the points.

I've had the cap off and everything looks pretty new. I figured I'd check the gap on the points and took the 2 screws out of the rotor and removed it. I guess that the thing with the springs on it is the centrifugal advance?
Anyway I can't seem to get a good look at the gap on the points.
I know that cap has that "window" you can open to adjust things, one book I have says the dwell and the gap. I don't know how you could make a gap adjustment from there..........

What's the best way to set the gap on the points? How do I get in there to see it?
Carb guy said .030 and the book says .016.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Fuel pump will be getting changed also......any thing to watch out for in that operation?

 

doubt it's the points..
sounds like fuel problem for distance traveled
quick check for the pump and lines back to the tank:
pull the outlet hose off the pump and place in container
start the Jeep and let idle
should put out a pint or so in under 30 seconds
if not, restriction, foreign matter, pinched line, bad pump etc

 

X2
dirty fuel filter or some other restriction

 

Did somebody maybe sneak up and drop a ping-pong ball in your gastank?

That sounds like the right distance for that little prank.R)

 

Definitley set it to .016 I have a 225 and I know what ya mean about the points. You can't get a gauge in there. Alot different then the 258. So far I have judged by eye and havn't had a problem. I always try to imagine about the thickness of a matchbook cover. you could probablly bend a matchbook cover to fit in there easier then a gauge.

 

To be truthfully honest to set the points right, you set the dwell not the gap. The gap is only a rough measurement the dwell is the one thats dead on. If the book calls for .016" with the factory distributor and thats what you have, your carb guy is definately wrong, to much gap will make the motor run just as bad as not enough.
But I agree it sounds like your running out of fuel.

 

New fuel tank, cap, and all rubber lines but not the hard line.
I did blow air thru it before putting in the new tank.

I do have a very small inline fuel filter that I bought cuz it was the only inline they had and at the time I just needed something on there so I could tinker with it.........gonna go buy one of those as well.

I got a stock gas cap and it wouldn't appear to vent in anyway.
There is no vent on the tank, just the return linme from the pump. I thought about the possible vacuum pressure on the tank.

As far as the points goes, I know that the allen head bolt is for the dwell (i think ) but have no idea how to set it correctly.

I'm so close!

 

I just reread your post jp.
Does that mean I can expect to burn a gallon of gas in 4 minutes?

Or is the flow much faster when not regulated by the carb?

 

The pump only supplies fuel to the carb. The carb meters the fuel out and mixes it into the airstream, creating a fuel/air ratio that burns efficiently. At least thats what it's supposed to do when it is working correctly.

jp is right, check fuel flow on the output side of the pump, I usually pull the line off the carb and check it there, that will tell you alot. It does not take much dirt to plug up a small fuel filter, I don't where yours is located, but if it is up by the carb and it is plugged, the pump will preasurize the line up to the filter. After the engine dies do to lack of fuel, the line should stay preasurized and continue to push a small amount of fuel through the filter to partially refill the carb and allow it to be started again.
I'm not saying don't check the points. It's a good time to familiarize yourself with that stuff too.

just my $.02

 

you do dwell with a dwell meter. its got two wires kinda like a tach meter or a volt meter. infact they're usually all incorporated into one.

 

I replaced the fuel filter.
I have already replaced all of the rubber fuel line.
The fuel line is "hard" from the tank to within about 12" of the pump and then goes to rubber (new).
I think it is either the pump or maybe thaere is some kind of restriction in the hard line. I am going to check the flow using the jp method.

 

Great info Madizell.
I did the flow test and got just under a pint in 30 seconds, which was just about the amount of time that the carb started starving for fuel.
I then thought to try it with the cap off. It didn't seem to solve the problem, though for some reason it seemed better.....I drove quite a bit and it died while going uphill. I have very little gas in the tank....maybe it wasn't getting to the pickup.
Could I vent my brand new stock cap by drilling 2 offset holes through the top and the inside part?
Seems the only way that I could be collapsing that brand new line would be if the tank was not venting. Why would they have a cap that didn't vent?

Can I blow air from the carb side of the fuel pump to the tank, or will it now make it past the pump or possibly damage the pump?

 

I put 5 gallons in her, removed the cap and drove her all over the neighborhood.

I then drill an 1/8" hole thru the cap and put it on. Drove it about a mile and parked it, walked the dog, got back in and it died after about a 1/4 mile. Opened the cap and replaced it,started back up and drove a couple more miles and went home.......

It sure seems to be a venting issue.

Is it me or is 1st gear on my T-98 kinda like a granny gear?
Seems alot better just starting out in 2nd for street driving.

 

I am going to try and find a pump today.

The tank is brand new along with all of the lines, except the section of steel line.

When I was waiting for my new tank to ship we actually ran it with a gas can but didn't bypass the pump.
It never died..........but I didn't have brakes and I was just creeping around in low range so the fuel demand was not as high.

It only did it once in 3 miles yesterday...I may need a bigger hole in the cap. I will also try and find a properly vented cap today.
Thanks for your reply and MERRY XMAS!

 

I put a new sending unit in my fuel tank this spring. I started having problems after 3 months similar to yours and found that the carb was full of crud that turned out to be the sealant I used to seal the sending unit to the gas tank that oozed out and dropped into the tank and got sucked up by the carb. Just sayin...