proportioning valve

I'm replacing my 73 cj frame with one that's from a 75. The 75 frame has a proportioning valve installed in the line and the line fittings are frozen into the valve. Would applying heat to it damage the inside of the valve? My 73 didn't have one of these valves and I'm tempted to eliminate it. It seems as though it's also going to be an issue when it comes time to bleed the brakes. Looking for opinions on heat damage as well as removing it. Thanks :?

 

So, my previous post got clobbered by the server ...

Anyway, did you use a flare nut wrench to try and remove the fittings? If you use an open-end wrench, and the fitting is tight, the nut will distort and the wrench will slip off. A flare nut wrench is a heavy 6-point box-end wrench with a gap cut in to pass the tubing. The 6 points will give the best chance of turning the nut without distorting.

Next I would cut the tubes and take the valve to the bench. Hold the valve in your vise and try to loosen the nuts with a 6-point socket. Hammer it on if the nut is distorted. Apply P_B Blaster or Kroil liberally, and let it set. You should be able to get the nuts out without heat.

 

Hi Timgr, yes I did try a flare nut wrench and it was rounding anyway. The rubber hoses that go to the wheels had thier fitting frozen as well, but the heat removed them. The rubbur lines hed been cut so I wasn't worried about them getting damaged. I guess if I cut the brake lines to get the valve off, I'll have to make up some short pieces to replace the removed section.
Boyink, that's good to know about the special bleeding tool not being necessary. I think that in my case, with the glass body, and previous experiences, I'd be better off keeping the valve. Do you guys think it's necessary to use double flared ends for any sections I make to replace cutoffs? I've used single flares in the past, on other vehicles, and never had any problems.

 

I don't think you need a proportioning valve if all your brakes are drum. With front discs yes, but all drums it isn't needed.

 

74 CJ5 here - had problems with my PV and never could the brakes equal all around in pressure. Swapped in another one and same problem. Removed it all together and they work great now. All drums 11".

 

As far as removing rusted fittings, line wrenches have never once worked for me. I always cut the line, spray it with PB Blaster, hammer on a socket then twist. Works evey time.

 

I nice trick for rusted anything's spray with wd40 let sit for a half hour then use clear pvc cleaner then more wd. The pvc cleaner is alot thinner than the wd and wicks into the threads pulling th wd with it. after another 15 20 minutes you should be able to break it free. If that fails nothing will loosen it.

 

Best tool for rounded brake line fittngs...... 6" pipe wrench.

 

Have you tried vice grips yet? The've always don teh trick for me.

 

pipe wrenches are awsome

 

Thanks for all the responses!! I do have 11 inch brakes all around, no boost, so I'm considering pulling the valve. I guess in that case I can cut the lines to remove it, then make some new replacement sections. I've used the pipe wrenches or vice grips in the past but I was trying to get the fittings off this time without damaging them.
I've got to try that PVC cleaner/WD40 trick the next time I attack a frozen fitting,...sounds interesting.
Thanks for all the suggestions guys!...great input. This will get me going again.