This weeks pipe dream?

I have a 63 Cj5. The plan was to make a mild trail rig using the factory drive train. After a 4” lift and a set of 33” SSRs I still was not happy. Decided to Lincoln Lock both axles to aid in the off-road prowess. Installed Warn Lock-in lock-out hubs so that I would be able to steer. Since then, I cannot run 4wd without being in slick mud. If the tires can gain traction, they pull straight. To solve this, I run with one hub locked until I need to lock the other. Problem is that when I decide to lock the other, it is usually too late. Someone has to get out and lock the other (usually on the passengers side).
Now to my idea. My scheme is to leave the Warn on one side, lock it like normal, but when I get into trouble, engage the other side electronically. Is there any vehicle that uses the Dana 30 that has an automatic hub? Want to wire one side to be engaged with the push of a button. I know the right thing to do is to undo the mess that I have created and put a selectable locker in, but that is not an option. Money is an issue. Is this a feasible way to do a poor mans’ selectable, or am I some sort of crackhead?

 

Scouts had autolocking hubs by Warn. Cant remember if my Scout had a 30 or a 44 though....

I guess, since we are pipe dreaming, install a TC with a center differential, like from a Land Rover Discovery. It would provide some relief, but could be locked when needed. I have no idea how you would get it to fit, though.:? BUT, it is passenger side drop and has a drum emergency brake like a D18.

Cheers

 

Someone here had mentioned that if the 2 U-joints in the front axle aren't "phased" (ie, lined up) you will have a bear of a time steering. You might check that. Otherwise, I must plead ignorance and lack of experience in such matters.....

 

The two u-joints aren't lined up with with an automatic locker either.

The wrangler has a front axle shaft disconnect. But too much work to splice it in.

 

There is a set of Warn Lock O Matic hubs for sale on ebay, if you want to try that route.....

 

I am unfamiliar with the lock o matic hubs. Looked at them on e-bay, and they look like the new ones that I had put on. Are they any different? Someone teach me a little something.

Remember, I don't want to have to get out of the Jeep to unlock the hub if riding through the woods and need to turn. Want to lock and unlock with a switch. Vacume, electric, maybee?

 

Hate to say this. But get rid of the welded front and get a lockright. Simple fix and then you can steer.

 

X2 Lose the Lincoln locker!! Just remove the welded spiders and put in a lockright. I have a lockright in the D25, it still wants to pull straight but then it unloads and turns, somthing else to do is remove the interlock "pill" from the D18 for 2LO capability. That way you can shift back into 2lo when you need to turn sharp and then back into 4wd- all from inside the vehicle with out having to get out to lock/unlock the hubs. I love it!

 

What he said. IIRC, lock o matics work by engaging 4wd and backing up a few feet? or maybe just engaging 4wd. Mine on the Scout never gave me any troubles, ever with 32s. I think that they give the option of manual lock too.

 

I think this is going to be your only realistic low buck option. You are going to prolly spend a lot of frustrating time and effort (and $$$) getting electronic 4wd in your JEEP. That is very similar to what you are doing when you unlock both hubs, anyway.

Do you have a 27 in the front still? I love my PowerLok. I've heard you can get them used for $100, although I've never priced them myself.

 

I agree, plus it's a weak point on that axle which is why many people swap in a one piece inner axle in those.

Nickmil

 

Forget the Warn Lock o Matics. They don't work with either a LS or a Locker. They will lock as soon as you move a few feet and the axles make a few revolutions. I had them on my old D27 and when I put in the Powerlock I couldn't get them to stay unlocked......ever!

 

Even taken the shift interlock out wont help much. Reason being is both front axles are still engaged with hubs locked, so they will still be fighting eachother trying to turn. Only real way to be able to turn with a welded front is to unlock both hubs. Other than that, add some power steering.

 

Yup. That's basically what I said above. Nickmil

 

Thanks for the advice. This will be a "winter project". Hopefully it won't be like my other projects that gets torn apart then forgotten