Grabby Clutch with AA Chain

My clutch (new 200 miles ago) is very grabby making it hard in very technical stuff. Anybody experience that with the Advanced Adapter Chain? The clutch is pretty much in or out with not as much ability to feather it as I would like. A part of the problem is gear ratio's. I have 4:88's and 16 forward gears so I tend to be in a very low gear which aggrevates the situation. If I shift up to a higher gear I can slip the clutch better but it still seems too abrupt to me.

 

If you are using a diaphram type pressure plate (clutch cover) that seems to be a common complaint. I doubt that it has anything to do with the AA chain setup. Could also be a little oil contamination on the clutch disc. Do you have the tell-tale oil drip from the bottom of the bell housing? Rear mains are notorious for leaking on the Dauntless.

 

Thanks, that is exactly the freedback I needed! Like sex, practice, practice, practiceR)
Since I never drove it with the old setup I wasn't sure if I had put it together right. Motor, clutch, trans and T/C are all newly rebuilt and really need to get some break in-mileage. I suspect.

 

One thing you can try is to lower the ratio. If you have a hole in your pedal below(closer to the shaft) the one you are using, might try the clevis there. This will cause you to use more pedal throw to obtain the same movement at the fork. Just be careful as the clutch might not disengage all the way.

 

I've had the same problem but I don't have the AA chain.

Now that I think about it, sometimes it's much worse than others - maybe it's the water, mud, oil thing.

I think the root of the problem is the setup on the fork, ball pivot, and throwout bearing - plus the rest of the linkage. There's some discussion of this on the Novak site.

I sure would like to try a fork that is longer on the outer end . . . .

 

Interesting thought. The pivot shaft for my pedals is shot and needs to be removed and rebushed so that might be a good time to change that ratio. Has anybody tried something like that?

 

I run a bellcrank style cluch linkage attached to the frame. The pedal action was way too "fast" and needed attention when using it. My pedal arm had a second hole below the one being used. I moved the linkage to the lower hole and readjusted the free pedal. The engagement was much smoother and "slower". I am much happier with the engagement now.

 

Mine is to an ear over by the brake pedal too. But I'm thinking that when I take the peday assembly down to redo it I'll try drilling another hole below the existing one to slow the action down. Has anybody tried anything like that?
I sure wish I could figure out how to do those little pictures you guys attach. I've tried everything that I've read and had suggested and I still end up with the pictures ending up WAY too big even if I could get it to accept them.

 

I just replaced my pivot shaft with one from Krage. The new shaft has the "ear" attached, old one did not have it. Thinking about going with the AA kit also. I made a cable and pulley system but when I get real twisted up the cable jumps off the pulley and then frays.