front alignment specs

Does anyone have the specifications for caster, camber and toe in/out for a 68 Cj5 w/ saginaw steering conv? Is it the same specs as a later CJ(72-83)?

Josh

 

I am assuming that you have a stock D27? There are guys here that have the FSM, I don't. In the interim period, however, these are what I use on mine that seem to work well:

Camber: Not adjustable on the D27. Some kind of shims are used to preset camber at the factory.
Castor: Also not easily adjustable. You can use shims between the spring and the axle if you need to. As I understand it, about 6deg is the sweet spot on most setups.
Toe-in: The only thing easily adjustable by you, the owner. I set mine to 1/16" toe-in. Not sure if that is factory, but if your castor is good, you'll track down the highway like you've got power steering even with a manual box.

 

the most important alingment angel is the toe this should not change from factory spec. you can look at other stright axel set ups but most of the time I think you will find the spec. to be from 1/16 to 1/18 toe in.
the other comment about camber is correct. now caster is a non wear angel however the more the caster the easer it will go stright. Their is one more angel called "the included angel" this has to do with the tilt of the tire in a turn. The included angel is not one you can adjust it is just a combanation of caster and camber in a turn. So dont worry about it.
One last thing to rember the more the caster the harder it will be to turn.which is not a problem if you have power steering.


To make it as simple as possoble stock axel and stock suspension stock alingment spec. will be the best.

Now if you have change the suspension you need to use the stock toe spec. and the caster should be arround 6 deg. pos and as much as 8 deg. if running large tries and power stering. But you need to watch the front drive line angels.

I hope I helped and didn't confuse you.

 

I am going to assume the caster and camber are OK because of no major changes over stock. Also I have manual steer and it is very easy to steer and it returns nicely after a turn.
I did however change the toe. It was 1/8 to 3/32 toe out. After heating the tierods with the torch alittle and cranking on the rod with a big pipe wrench, I managed to turn the rod and set the toe to about 1/16 toe-in. Ill drive it a little tommorrow and see how it is.

Thanks,
Josh

 

The best way to ck toe: jack up the front end put on stands.
spin tires paint strip down center of tread.
spin tire prop a screw driver or awl to put a thin line down the center of painted line.

now half way up tire mesure between them and compair mesurment front to back.

by doing it this way and defects in the tire or wheel will not effect your mesurment.

 

I've used this method with excellent results. I've found it needs to be done on a really flat and level garage floor, though:
http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31544&highlight=craftsman+laser

I went through a frustrating period of experimentation with my suspension setup before I got it right. I was literally affecting toe-in every couple of days for a while because I kept cutting parts out and starting over. I couldn't afford to pay $50 a pop that the alignment shop charge, so I got really good at doing it myself. After a while, I could just eyeball the front and guess pretty close to where it needed to be.

Also had to use the straight edge method several times. I went down to my local metal recylcer and found an excellent piece of thick channel alumnium that I use specifically for the alignments now. I keep it stored out of harms way and only bring it out to do the alignment so that I know it stays relatively true.