Building a Narrowtrack front D44?

I got a '73 CJ5, and thinking about lockers and such. I do like the look, handling and stance of the stock width axles. It works for me. I don't need or want something even as wide as Scout axles under it.

Is there a D44 front that can be shortened to narrowtrack width?? Anybody done this????

 

With lots of time and patience and some good fab skills a narrow track Wagoneer front can be used by only shortening the long side unlike what that article states. There's good info there, but that one bit was incorrect. You will have to deal with all the spring perch casting on the passenger side and do some relocating and a lot of grinding on the casting and some fill welding as well.
When I build custom 44 fronts (about 100 or so last time I counted) we use tubes from the front but a rear center section. The reason is the rear center section is narrower allowing the spring pads to be put where needed with minimal grinding unlike the factory front pumpkin that has pinion angle pre-set and clearance issues with different width springs, etc. This allows us also to set pinion angle, caster angle, and spring pad angle where we need for maximum performance and handling as well as proper driveline angles. We use the stock length short side tube and axle which works fine and shorten the long side. This allows for off the shelf parts for everything but the housing and long side inner axle. This means if you were to lose a U-joint on the short side and wipe out the axle (the one that usually goes) you could potentially go to a wrecking yard and find a replacement. Can't do that with two custom shafts.

I will warn you that there is a LOT of work involved in doing this. But if you have the time, skills, and interest in doing it, it is well worth it. There are several companies that build these also in different levels, meaning just a housing, housing with axles, with or without gears, etc. Dynatrac, Currie, R&P 4 WD Parts, and I'm sure others too. If built with the right components you will be able to re-use your outers, meaning knuckles, brakes, and locking hubs also. Nickmil

 

I narrowed a scout 44 because I wanted the disk brakes and the stock look of the jeep hubs. I narrowed both sides to keep it narrow and I was able to set both my pinion and my caster angles this way. I do remember one thing about the job, I had a guy shorten and respline my axle shafts, but the short side axle was not useable because the stock axles get skinny after the splines and it was not thick enough to spline there, so I had to buy another long side axle to spline. Overall it was a fun job but you do need access to all the right tools.

 

One more thing, I think I did make my axle about a 1" 1/2 wider to keep my front tires from rubbing the leaf springs on sharp turns. Probably would also be easier to order the correct axles new then try to have some shortened.

 

I run 33's, with 3.73's. I am going to put selectable lockers front and rear, and want something strong enough for a locker. Want to do it right the first time, and maybe include a disc swap, too. I got a 258 and a light foot, so will probably be ok with the D30. I am looking at three options:

1) Keep my D30, add ARB/OX, 4.56 and front discs.
2) Keep D30, add ARB/OX, 4.56, Warn 297x axleshafts and front discs.
3) Swap in a cut-down disc'd D44 and ARB/OX and 4.56's.

Opt. #1 will *probably* be strong enough for my wheeling. #2 would work great (but will be most expensive). #3 may be overkill, and will take a lot of time and work.

 

it shouhd have a 30 in the front mine did with drive flanges i welded mine it does good i did but a set of spider but that was my falt i didnt weld them rite i welded them in the carier instad of taking them out to do it i used a arc this last time it does a lot better than the mig i used last time i took them out this time too

 

I went with your Option 1 for mine (ARB's and 4.27's). Haven't had any problems at all so far. I do carry a spare set of axles and u-joints though.....just in case.

 

Even with a light foot, a Dana 30 has trouble with a locker. Actually a dana 44 has trouble with a locker breaking u-joints and axle shafts. People usually upgrade the u-joints and shafts on 44's.
If you want to take the effort to upgrade to a 44, use a high pinion ford. It is a stronger differential, and it lifts your driveshaft up and out of the way.

 

Tumbleweed is probably right, my dana 30 would only break the carrier when i abused it, I am a reformed abuser,the lockers are much stronger than a stock open carrier. And I have also seen friends tear up thier 44 fronts like tumbleweed says in reverse with the wheels turned.( U-joint area) I guess it comes down to if you are throttle man or not. With the six cyl. you are probably safe with the 30.

 

Nickmil, do you build the 44s for sale? I've started to look into getting a Dana 44 for the front of my Willys and came across this thread while researching. I've got a Dana 30 I could put up there, but I'd have to buy new carrier, gears. Plus, I ultimately want 35" tires w/ front locker so that's why I'm thinking of just going straight to the 44.

 

I build them for a shop I work for on the side. I've got an agreement with them that I won't build them for other people but I get parts at cost and have my own set of keys and alarm code so I have the run of the shop and my own private line of credit with them . I actually use their equipment and shop to build them so they keep pretty close tabs on what I'm doing. I've slowed down lately as I have too much to handle with other stuff like family and my own projects and my day job (Teaching Automotive). Sorry .
R&P sells the housings and axles only or complete front and rear ends, or anything in between. Nickmil

 

I used a narrow track waggoneer Dana 44 front axle for my Cj3b with wrangler springs so I only had to cut the long side down. The spring pad on the Punkin Side was not an issue. The width came out to be about 57.5 inches wheel mounting surface to wheel mount surface. I think this is a good width for a CJ5. I have a friend that used the same front Dana 44 axle for his 1969 Jeepster Commando with no issues with the narrow springs on a Commando with the stock spring pad on the pumkin. Just my observations.

 

No worries Nickmil. I'm mostly just dream'n anyway. I may sell an ATV in the near future, so I would have some Willys bucks available. Not sure I want to tackle a mod like that on my own, but I guess if I can pick up the axle somewhere cheap enough, I could give it a try, or at least start on it.