Brake line fittings?

Question, I wanted to know if anyone has a trick on loosening badly corroded fittings? Its the one on the M/C. Also does anyone know the exact size of the wrench i should use?

 

Soak it with your favorite penetrating oil, and use a line wrench (forget what size...3/8?). If you're going to replace the line, you can cut it off and put a 6 point socket on it. Even if it's half round already, you can usually pound the socket on and and get it out. The hard part then is getting the old fitting out of the socket If it's already completly round, you can try the usual tricks...vice grips, etc.

 

I got a double-flaring tool, a roll of tubing, and a bag of fittings. My life changed for the better!

Pete

 

I just cut the bad section out and used 2- 3/16" compression fittings, one on each end. Piece-o-Cake!

 

Compression fittings? Now you are scaring me. ;-)

Pete

 

that's the way we do it even on school buses this side of the rio grande.
ray

 

:iagree:

:iagree:
They'd work to get you out of the woods, but not much farther than that.

 

Please tell us you're joking.......:?

 

Well we will just have to wait and see, won't we... Wish me luck....R)

Why don't you think they will work, list your reasons below.

 

Here is the link I used to do this:

http://volksweb.relitech.com/brakeln.htm

It seems to be a good tight fit so far...

 

I think for the long haul I would replace the complete line or lines. That's where I was at last week on the 70 model. For sure after replacing lines and probably wheel cylinders go back with silicone fluid!!!! It cost a little more in the beginning but it won't rust,keeps rubber lines and seals flexable and doesn't attract water

 

The size wrench I use to loosen corroded brake line fittings is a medium size vise grip.

Using one of those on a master cylinder fitting should be easy. It gets a little trickier on some of the intermediate junction boxes.

Double flaring is very easy, and there is no substitute for doing it right when it comes to brakes.

The only thing that you need to be sure to do is to create a chamfer on the tube before beginning the flaring process. The rest is easy as pie, but don't forget to put the fitting on the line before you flare it. That is the voice of experience talking here.

 

I had compression fittings on my daily driver 2000 F150 for about a year before I traded it in.

 

:iagree:

Absolutely positively. Don't cut corners on the brake system.

 

Double-ditto on Kamel's remark - remember to chamfer the tube before double flaring.

I broke two tools before figuring that out...

Other than that it's easy-peasy. SOOo nice to be able to fit a new line anywhere, anytime.

Pete

 

Just realize that compression fittings are not safe in an automotive application. I'm sure if one of the engineer types on here would chime in, they can tell you the operating pressure of the brake system in a panic stop mode. Then compare it to the capacity of the compression fittings. I'm sure that the difference will shock you. Remember, it's not just you on the road, anyone around you is at risk if your brakes fail........

I bought a double flare tool from Autozone for 25 bucks. It's worth every penny.

 

I agree with everything said in favor of double flared joints. The only thing I would add is the necessity of using flared nut wrenches instead of open end types or worse yet, pliers, etc. Makes the job go a lot smoother.

 

When I used to work on heating equipment, I ran into a lot of fuel (LP and NG gas) lines that used compression fittings. Seemed like I had a lot of them that were a real PITA to get sealed. And that's on a fuel system that runs well under 20 PSI. I was a much bigger fan of flare fittings. I personally try to avoid them (for any application) if at all possible. That's just my experience though.