Priming the fuel pump

Is there a way to prime the fuel pump. I can get the engine running with starter fluid, but it won't stay running. I removed the pump and cleaned it up a bit. The fuel bowl starts out empty and is not filling very fast which tells me the pump may not be working right or do I have to fill the bowl before it will stay running. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

I recently had my fuel pump off (to replace an oil line). I cleaned the fuel pump while I had it off the motor. The bowel was empty when I reinstalled the pump. It took a little longer than normal to start the first time but it started and ran fine without priming the bowl.

 

Could you have a restriction in the line to the pump?

 

That's what I was wondering...either that or there's a hole in the diaphram (sp. I know).

 

True. Do you smell fuel in your oil. Sounds weird but it could be dumping in there.

 

When I had a dry tank and also months of not starting the motor. My fuel pump will start the motor with out starting fluid. Your fuel pump should start the motor with out priming it. It may take a while of cranking the starter, but it should start. My thought is. If it needs starting fluid. There is something wrong.

 

OK here is what is going on. I finally got fuel flowing into the bowl on the fuel pump and pulled the line at the carb and I was getting fuel there. Took the top off the carb and unscrewed the metering rod and blew threw it, felt like there was an obstruction got it out. Sprayed a little starter fluid and it finally ran...for about 30 seconds, but hey that was the best so far.

Then two cans of starter fluid later I decide to turn the distributor a few increments at a time clockwise and guess what...It ran for a couple minutes, without starter fluid! I ran out of room to move it any more, so tomorrow I am going to pull the oil pump gear and move the distributor so I have more room for adjustment.

We'll see tomorrow what happens. I have a wedding to go to in the afternoon so I probably won't have much time to work on it, but I would like to get it running Sunday. Thanks for all the help, this is such a great forum and I am glad to be a part of it.

 

Hold on a second. Instead of doing all that, remove your distro and flip the hold down washer/bracket the other way. This will allow you to adjust through the other range.

Are you sure you do not have a vacuum leak or carb leak as well?

 

Thanks for the info Kevin. My only thought is I am as far as I can go clockwise and I'm at the 4 O'Clock position now and if I flip the bracket won't that put me way over to say 7 O'Clock and on up? I think my only option is to remove the oil pump gear. I've done it a couple of times now I think I have it. find #1's 5 deg BTC, remove the pump gear, place the distributor where it needs to be for #1 spark tighten it down and relocate the pump gear.

 

If I remember right #1 should be at TDC not 5 BTDC when inserting the oil pump with timing gears aligned. I just went through this as well. Come to find out I had a variety of problems, two plug wires were bad, valves needed adjustment, oil pump was off, and I even had to "cut" the notch on my distro bracket further on both sides to fine tune it. It runs like a raped ape now.

Good luck

 

gscj5, the #1 plug wire position on the cap is at approx. the 6-O-clock position. It took a lot of work to get mine running, until the radiator blew up.

 

When I first got the jeep #1 was at 11 O'Clock so needless to say that didn't sit right with me, so I did the pump thing. I looked in service manuals like Chilton's, Haynes and now have an original 1950 service manual and now that I look at it, the original manual shows it at 5 O'Clock so I guess I am back to the drawing board. I would imagine with wear these things could be off a bit.

Not to debunk what Kevin said, but it says in the OEM manual " it will be necessary to place No. 1 piston in firing position to correctly install the distributor...on later four cylinder engines, 5 deg. before top center mark on the timing gear cover is in alignment with the mark on the crankshaft pulley" I think the key word here is firing position. Well I am heading back out to "get er done"...wish me luck. I will keep you abreast.

 

OK now I am getting irritated. Here is my problem when I think I have it in the right position and I go to put the cap on it doesn't line up. I am wondering if they gave me the wrong cap. The only time the button reaches #1 is just after the cam lobe reaches its end. Actually its like that at all locations on the cap. The cap has #1 at about 5:30, but like I said that is at the end of the cam lobe travel the manual states that just when the points break, which I would assume is at the beginning of lobe travel.

Is it possible that the distributor was rebuilt and the shaft put in wrong? I can't move the cap around because there is a notch in the distributor housing for the cap to sit. I am going to Napa to see if I can find the right cap.

I have a Autolite IAY 4401 12R, all the pics I see have the oiler on the left and the bracket slots on the right...any pics would be great.

 

I can move the housing but the problem is Sparky my rotor doesn't line up with any of the contacts on the cap when the points start to break at the beginning of the lobe.....Oh my gosh....It just hit me the rotor moves counter clockwise...duh! What an idiot I am...be right back. Remember that for future reference.

 

Yes, Yes, Yes!!!! Its running!:driving: I can't believe that I forgot the distributor rotates counter clockwise.That is what I meant by the button not lining up when the points were breaking, I was turning the rotor the wrong way to find the break of the points...duh. Thanks guys for all your help