f-134 running rich

I just got my '68 M38a-1 out of the garage after a looong 3 year "sleep" (due to a spun #3 rod bearing), and I am starting to experience some fuel related issues.

Firstly, either I forgot how thirsty this little engine is, or there is something causing it to run VERY rich...
some background...
stock 'F' head engine, pertronix ignition, new cap, rotor, wires and plugs,
rebuilt carb (military style with the 90 degree bend in the top housing), and an open element K&N filter in place of the oil bath unit.

let's just say mosquito's are not a problem in my neighborhood since the old girl fired up.....
haven't had to use the choke to fire it up yet either.
The tailpipe is black with soot, and after running at city speeds for 10-15 minutes, it has developed a very rough idle and wants to stall. after shutting down for a short time, it cranks a lot to get started again - coughs, chokes and sputters, then comes back to life -
operating temperature runs between 160 and 185 degrees, depending on how fast I push it (closer to 185-190 at 60 mph)

I am guessing a stuck float or a bad seal on the needle and seat?
(possibly because I never drained the fuel or put a stabilizer in it)
I am on my third tank of fresh fuel, and the problem seems to be getting worse.

Thanks in advance.

 

After sitting that long, I'd rebuild the carb. This place is supposed to have the best kits out there. http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/

 

:iagree: Probably the float. IMHO, I've never been able to store a car more than a year without rebuilding the carb. Replace the carb to intake gasket while you're at it, too.

 

The military F-134 carb doesn't have an accelerator pump, but it has a dood-dad with a vacuum diaphragm, under a cap on the side, with four screws.

If this diaphragm has a leak, I believe it will suck gas and run rich. It was a long while ago when I had this problem and my memory is not totally fresh on it.

A rebuild kit will do the trick if it has the part. Remember to get a kit for a YS, not YF.

Good Luck!

Pete

 

wierd.... checked the carb today - says
CARTER YF, then on the other side of the float bowl, it says C-818.....

 

maybe I have a "frankenstein" on my hands - cause the carb looks like the one here....http://www.farmersservice.com/miljeeps.htm

 

On that link, the upper picture marked Y-S is the correct original carb for M38-A1, and the four-screw cover on the diaphragm shows clearly.

A YF could fit the same engine but is the civilian version. It has a diiferent arrangement for acceleration pump, pump rods etc. No diaphragm.

Pete

 

Anybody have a "spare" Y-S carb kicking around??
I have a feeling I may need one....

 

Hmmm, light must have been playing tricks on me - looked at the carb again this morning and it is a Y-S carb..... my bad.

now to find a kit in Canada.......

 

Ditch the Carter and get a Solex.....

I can say from experience.....ditch the Carter and get a Solex.
I did and have never looked back.
The Solex fits excellent and works superb.

Better make sure your Carter is rebuildable before throwing money and time at it.
A rebuild kit will do no good if there is any throttle shaft slop in the carb. body.

The best price around is at Quadratec, $97.99 plus shipping.
Here's a link to the Solex on their site:
http://www.quadratec.com/products/51312_02.htm

 

This really is the best method. I'm in total agreement. The best thing I ever did with the carter was to take it off and install a new solex.

 

I was looking at the Solex a while ago, but I would have to change the air intake setup I have - I kind of like the "water proof" snorkel.

I was also contemplating the Weber carb conversion, but it's pretty spendy.......

 

Well the solex is pretty sweet,solves alot of problems,and with a little thought im sure you can figure out how to water proof it easily.

 

I didn't think about the military arrangement you have.
What does the top of your Carter look like?
Is it completely different than the civilian carb. top?
I know my factory, civilian CJ5 oil-bath air filter elbow fit perfectly.

 

looks exactly like the one in the top picture here....
http://www.farmersservice.com/miljeeps.htm

 

Here's a vote in favor of the Carter and against the Solex carb.

I have had experience with both and in my (sometimes not so humble) opinion a properly rebuilt Carter is much better. It'll even start easily in the winter!!

Besides, the engine system was designed to work with Carter, whilst an MG engine system was designed to work with Solex.

I wouldn't put a Carter on an MG for the same reason.

If you have the F-134 civilian engine, a Carter YF was the model that was used. It'll be the 938 model unless it was a later, smog model in which case it will be a 4002.

The carburetor shop has the ONLY kit that I have found that will work on a jeep Carter carb. In my experience NONE of the jeep part vendors have the correct kit.

It is a long story why the right carb kit is hard to find, but it centers around the fact that the jeep carter carb YF is unique to jeep four cylinder engines, and is not common to the YF on other applications. Since most of the YF applications are for larger engines, the kits are made for those because that is where the market is. So, installing the wrong kit leads to engine flooding and very poor performance.

good luck, and if you choose to get rid of the carter carb, I'll take it off your hands.

 

Wow.
That is a different carburetor top!
If you plan to stick with your present air cleaner arrangement, you'll have to stick with a Carter Y-S.
Best of luck in your search, rebuild and tuning.
With the resources on here, you should be fine.