Transfer case Leak?

Hope this helps. From the CJ3B page..

Transfer Case Leaking Oil

Q: "I have a 1951 Willys with a T-90 trans and Spicer 18 transfer case. The output shaft area seems to leak a lot of oil from the transfer case. It gets my parking brake drum all oily and a puddle develops on the ground. I took it apart, cleaned it and put silicone around the shaft and other areas, but it leaks just as bad -- what's wrong? Is the seal hard to replace, and where do you buy a seal? I took the silicone idea from this web page, but it did not work for me. I can see the leak coming from the inside of the parking brake drum. It seems to leak mostly after I have driven the Jeep."

John Beshears: "The seal is not difficult to replace, but you will need a seal puller. The seal is available pretty much everywhere. I got mine at Quadratech. Also look at the yoke when you have it off -- they become scored and that may be contributing to your problem."

Reed Cary: "Just thought I'd add that in case of the yoke surface being a problem there are sleeves available (the name "Readi-Sleeve" comes to mind) which are made of stainless steel, slip over the worn area, and restore a sealing surface."

Q: "OK, I have the new front and rear output shaft oil seals (metal with rubber in the middle) and some felt and paper gaskets in a kit I bought. In what order do they go into the transfer case? Also I do not have tools to take out the old oil seals -- is there a trick to doing it without the tool? The shaft is a little in the way. I suppose I can use a piece of pipe to drive the new ones in, but how do I take them out? Also, I did not see any felt when I took the yoke off -- why? Is this why my TC was leaking?"

Rus: "A good rental store will have a puller available to get the seal out. I will admit, at a younger age I used a horrible technique of driving a sharp screwdriver into the metal face of the seal and then used the screwdriver to "leverage" it out. Use the puller. The repair manual exploded view plus some parts catalogue illustrations show the paper gasket in first, followed by the rubber seal. The felt seal, which I believe handles small seepage, fits up in the yoke (front) and the drive flange (rear). I highly recommend obtaining a repair manual for your Jeep if you're going to work on it. You'd be surprised at the amount of information they have."

 

The stock oil seals for the output yokes don't work too well & are easy to mess up when inserting the yoke . The hot ticket for a replacement seal is a double lipped National Federoal Mogul part # 473229. You won't find these at a FLAPS, you'll have to get them at a bearing supply place. These seals are a little thinner than the stock ones raising the question of how far in they should be inserted into the cap. I solved that problem simply by sticking two in there. If that thing leaks now I'll just give up on jeeps & take up gardening :twisted:

Check the yoke when you remove it for scoring or pitting where the seal contacts it. If it's messed up it will ruin the new seal in no time flat, you'll have to clean it up or replace it.

I'd suggest you find "Rick Stiver's D18 rebuild Guide" on the net for more/better details on your xfer case.


H.

 

http://www.willystech.com/wt/Model18TCase/Model18TransferCase.html