Brake mystery - Help needed

A couple months ago my front right brake was locking up on me when I would brake hard. I looked at bleeding the fronts with no help. I pulled the wheel off and found some "crap" on the brake pads and removed it using brake cleaner. To me the wheel cylinder and everything looked normal. Didn't no why anything would be on my brake shoes. I put the wheel back on and everything was good.
Well the last couple weeks the problem has come back. I pulled the wheel off last night and found the same problem. I cleaned it up and I am back in buisness. What is happening here? I took some pictures. Maybe one of you guys can spot something. When I spray the brake cleaner on it just bubbles us and flakes right off.

 

Just to add, the brake drum looks great.

 

How do your drums look? It almost looks like it could be crap flaking off of the inside of your drum?

 

Since it's not the drum and there's no obvious source of anything else that could be a source of contamination, I'd put on new shoes and see what happens. It looks like your shoes are about due for replacement anyhow.

If I had to guess I'd say that since you've got so little shoe left that you're brakes are running hot and that's making what material you have left glaze over. It didn't happen before because you weren't running as hot. Every brake manufacturer uses different components. Maybe the material on this type of shoe exhibits this property?

Brake shoes are pretty cheap. Good luck.

 

I was going to say that it looks like glazing and that is due to heat, riding the brakes etc. Could be that the shoes are not of a high quality?

 

I do have some new pads at the house. I didn't want to put new ones on without finding out the cause. I guess the shoes could just be bad. The brakes are adjusted correctly and I don't ride my brakes....I do alot of downshifting and with 4:88's you can slow down pretty quick. Thanks for the input. - Tim

 

I know this is not the reason, but before I spent any money redoing 9" brakes I would upgrade to 11". Mine would pull hard under braking without any crap in the works when I had the 9" brakes. The 11" system self adjusts and is the best thing since pockets on a shirt.

 

Yep 10" Brakes. I would like to upgrade to 11's someday.

 

if the wheel cylinder is not leaking, that only leaves the front wheel grease seal; is it seeping and throwing grease around ?
the shoes I would spray clean and then take emory cloth/sandpaper to them and roughen them/sand them up a little.
appears to be plenty of lining left other than the one bad spot..

 

:iagree: From the looks of the inside of your backing plates you've got some grease/brake dust buildup which would point to a bad seal. Wipe some off w/ your finger and see if its a greasy mix. You got plenty of material left on the shoes and as flaky as that stuff is it doesn't look like glazing. My .02.:v6:

 

When I cleaned the shoes up I used brake cleaner on the entire assenbly. Everything is pretty clean. I will give it a couple of weeks and I will take a look to see if I have any grease in there.

Thanks guys for the ideas.

 

Sorry, I don't have an answer to your question but you might be able to answer a question I have. I am redoing my brakes (66CJ5 - 10" brakes). My brakes are the same as yours.

My questions are:
1. I can't find replacement brake shoes springs (top) or replacement adjuster spring (bottom). Do you know a source for new springs?
2. Is the self adjuster linkage triangular plate fixed or does it need to pivot on the anchor screw?

 

Brake hardware parts can be found at NAPA
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=430&OEMPartNum=h 7064

I am not sure about the self adjuster part as far as it pivoting. I would have to look at my brakes. Maybe someone else here could answer that.

 

Just a comment - don't put a lot of money into 10" brakes.

http://www.r-p4wd.com/site/product_pages/randp12.htm

The 11" brakes are the common Bendix style and much easier to find parts for.

Other places sell the kits too. If you can find the backing plates and e-brake arm used, all the other parts can be sourced from your FLAPS.

Haven't worked on the 10" brakes, but from the picture above, it's clear the SE plate has to move, otherwise there would be no need for the top link. I would expect the bolt to have a shoulder or a stop so that it can't be tightened against the plate.

 

back when I ran 10" brakes, I had a rather hard time getting the hardware. Ended up using some 10x2.5" parts and some that where matched up at flaps. seems all that is made anymore are the 9" and 11" parts.