2X4 frame for my CJ2A

You might have to do this if you don't want to cut the pedals. I plan on cutting the angled section out of my floor to accommodate my floor-mounted pedal system... but that's for another thread.

Personally, I think you could lose 6" out of those pedals and not even notice it. If you really don't want to mess with their length, you could at least notch, bend, and re-weld an angle into the pedals to get more travel, but frenching the pedal travel into the floorboard would retain the precious legroom real estate.

 

BTW, did you try fitting that brake booster in place with the engine in?

 

No. Its the only place it can go Not up further, not toward the fender further. Its is the only place it fits. I could have put in another hour or so into fitting this pedal system, but I am not sure of what I want to do, so I just stopped.

I am thinking about cutting out the dash as well to make a mount for the inside of the pedal mount to help support it. I re welded the dash back in because the original one that came with mine was super hacked up. I did a good job, can't get it out. The floorboards are ones I made and the transmission hump needs help, so cutting more out is not a big deal. I may still have to cut the pedals a bit anyway.

If this is not right I will be unhappy every time I drive it. Cut out floorboards, cut out firewall, put empty block and heads in to mock it up with empty transmission case?

 

I only brought the engine placement into the picture because I mocked up the hood, fenders and grill on mine the other day, and there is zero clearance in there for a master cylinder, let alone a brake booster. Your V6 might end up in a totally different locale than my engine, who knows. I'd just hate to see you put this work in, then have an "Oh crap!" moment when you go to drop the engine in.

I'm planning on chopping out the floor and building something like this and putting the pedal assembly on the floor and the booster down by the frame. No idea if it'll work, but I'm running out of options.

 

That will totally work. Speedway has all that stuff for race cars. I don't think I will have any issues with engine clearance with the booster. Guys put them in all the time.

Look at this
http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_forum/index.php?threads/swing-pedals.90354/

 

I used a similar booster setup out of a yj to get better braking power. It was a huge pain, but totally worth it. i had to change the rod that went from my cj pedals to the yj master. It took a ton of trial and error. If you have a matching master/pedal assembly then you will avoid all that. It took me about six or seven attempts to get full range of motion. For your pedal length issue.....could you heat and bend them upwards so they don't hit the floor? I know that would change the geometry....I don't know if that would affect things as much as changing the length.

 

Its all a matching YJ set and I am going hydraulic master/slave for the clutch. No linkage. As far as changing the pedal ratio, I would rather not, but I am sure to have to make compromises. I would just cut them and weld them as I need to. Looks like it will easily clear steering shafts.

 

Get over it..............if you want to do it right the pedals need to be cut down from 16" to 14"...........The ratio then needs to be adjusted at the pedal arm / push rod point to the input of the booster , and must be entering the booster as straight as possible as the arm will travel in a small arch. Previously I sent you a picture that showed how to do that by cutting out the center of the pedal set to relocate the center of the booster which also adjusts the ratio...........I would also ditch that adapter between the fire wall and Booster as its not needed in your application if you adjust the ratio and will only further complicate room under the hood..........in fact I would also ditch the large booster for a dual 8 inch. The Clutch Master cylinder will follow the pedal set in height while it also follows the arm on the pedal.....4:1 ratio at the Power Brakes and 6:1 at the clutch pedal. The pedals don't necessarily need to be cut yet either as you may want to bend them over so there better positioned in and around the steering column.............easy to loose 2" in length when moving them over. Below you'll see a set that has been bent over............and not cut , and finishes near 14" length needed from the center pin to the foot pad...............you'll also see in this set that I split the pedals around the steering column for an early CJ . Unfinished but you still get the picture. In the last picture this is just a mock up of the split pedal assembly.........note the holes in the floor............that would have been where the old floor mounted pedals once exited.

 

Terry, Thanks for the pointers. I have no desire to use the spacer. Problem is that the booster uses a long non-removable push rod. One of the reasons I went with a YJ setup was for relative inexpensive standard replacement parts. I have much less room to work with in my 2a than that cj5. There really is only a small area that is available for me to place this setup. Movement more than an inch or 2 is not really possible on the firewall if i want to clear the fender and the hood. Where I do have, and do not mind cutting, in the toe board. I do not have the stock mount up there anymore and need to fabricate a better one than I had and the toe boards are ones i made. Where the booster sits on the firewall is the close approximate position to where any booster would have to be placed in my 2A. The pedals also easily clear the steering shaft.

In order to change the pedal length and get to the 4:1 ratio for the brake and 6:1 for the clutch as you state that means that the point at where the push rod for the master and clutch would have to change. That would also change the position on the firewall up or down. That may not be possible either, hence the compromise and my lack of enthusiasm for cutting the pedals.

http://www.mpbrakes.com/techtalk/how-to-series/correctly-calculating-pedal-ratio

http://www.wilwood.com/m/techtip/TechFaqAnswer.aspx?id=7&no=3

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Brakes/#ThePedal

 

If you want to look at other peddle options, take a moment and look at mid 1980 Chevy S10 assemblies. They better fit the space available under the dash of a flat fender without all the cutting except the 11 1/2" dimension you noted. The peddle lengths are shorter than yours and the assemblies have all the attributes that you noted (brake light switch, hydraulic clutch master cylinder and small diameter brake booster). This is what I used on my 1945 GPW.

 

Your missing the point..............you have a custom installation. Your taking parts designed for something else and adapting them to something completely different than what they were built for...........Treat it as that..........and that is why I say modify any and everything to get you where you need and want it to be..............Are there other options out there like the S-10 pedal set mentioned above?........Absolutely!
I've spent days looking at pedal sets in wrecking yards for years.......from every car and truck made including the foreign models.........everyone of them can be made to fit.
Chuck (Warlock ) likes the Wilwood pedal sets in the early flatties......................... Is there any right or wrong?............Nope , just what works.

 

I am going for it and will install these pedals. I have them, they are here, they are paid for, etc. They will work with modification. The pedal ratio is 3.71 to 1 for the brake arm. The clutch arm is the same. That is ok for power as it is, but not for manual. Thats fine because I am not doing manual. The good thing is that there is not a lot of room necessary for pedal swing to get the full push of the piston in the M/C.

I have a lot of sheet steel and a pile of cut off wheels.


I didn't want to do this, but the work I have done is such carp that any modification requires this. If I am going to do it, do it all short of just buying a new body.

Plan is to make a plate for the mount to bolt to onto the firewall, make a mount for the other side on the dash and then make the toe board to fit the swing of the pedals. Might work fine, might not.

 

The work is carp? Didn't know fish could weld. Keep at it looking good.

 

Hhahah thanks. Its a family site but you get what I'm saying.

Carp Car CArp!



I think it needs to go up 3/4 of an inch. The cut off front of the mount will have a flange welded on and holes for through bolts in the dash to support it.



I pushed the whole thing over towards the passenger side a bit. Had to cut into the rest of the firewall to allow for the mount. Still enough room for the steering shaft around the pedals. Still think it needs to go up 3/4 of an inch.

The pedals are too long by at least an inch and they are too straight. If I push the mount up 3/4 of an inch it will help, but I need to angle them outward a bit anyway. This will cut down the ratio, but hopefully not much. As it is they are at 3.71/1. Thats really the minimum for power brakes as I have read.

I will then build the floor boards and toe boards to accommodate this pedal set.

 

Man dude, you're getting' a lot done. I can't even get my spare tire carrier mod done and you've built a JEEP. Keep chipping at it. You'll be rolling by spring.

Ed, I'd like to see your s10 pedals in another thread, perhaps. Could you put something together for us to see and read?

 

Ed can put his pics here or he can make his own . I don't mind. My threads are a community effort and I appreciate input.

Dave, Thanks. My plan is to be driving by spring. Its pretty slow this week at work, no work, so I am filling time with jeep stuff. Hate to be bored, must keep moving.

 

I made my plate 1" shorter which pushed the whole assembly 1" higher on the firewall. This , I think, is the final position. Plenty of clear ace for the fender and the hood.


The pedals are more centered in the footwell too. I will have to cut the pedals, but really only to angle them out into the body a bit. They are too straight.

 

Will do and thanks for reminding me. I need to find the center of the pivot point and get a hole saw out. This set up has the clutch slave behind the booster. I think its why there is that big stand off.

Its raining, I need shielding gas, my extension for my welder is about 8 feet too short to get into the plastic jeep palace and I want to weld on the bracket I made for the front of the pedal bracket that will bolt on to the dash right above where the cut out is for the stock steering wheel.

I just realized that even if i bolt the front of the bracket to the back of the dash, once I weld the dash back together there is little to no chance of me getting the pedal bracket out again without using a cut off wheel because of the way the dash is formed and where the bracket sits.

Cant imagine I would need to do that. Sure would make it kind of a PITA if i did.