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V6 assembly question

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by jcandhis63, Mar 5, 2006.

  1. Mar 5, 2006
    jcandhis63

    jcandhis63 Member

    Hillsboro, TX
    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2005
    Messages:
    87
    I will soon be assembling my 4.1L Buick. I have assembled a number of engines in my youth, but this is my first Buick.

    My question is whether sealant is used on the intake manifold gasket, and if so, what is the sealant of choice.

    Originally this engine came with an all steel valley pan gasket. According to the manual, sealant is to be applied to the head side of the gasket.

    The new gasket is steel with a coating on both sides. I am wondering whether the newer coated gaskets need any additional sealant at all.

    Also, the intake will be aluminum if it makes a difference.

    Thanks for any input you can provide.

    JC
     
  2. Mar 5, 2006
    Hippo393

    Hippo393 Jeepless

    Charlotte, NC
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    1,130
    I'm thinking that the added sealant refers to the north & south "rails" on the block. Not sure on your particular engine, but the 225 intake manifold gasket set is in 4 pieces: 2 each for where the intake meets the heads, and 2 rubber gaskets where the intake meets the block. Sealant is added on the 3-way corners (head, block, intake) to prevent PCV blowout of the rubber seal. Some folks remedy the potential prob by tossing the rubber gaskets in favor of a solid bead of sealant.
    Anything hi-temp, hi-tack (resist oil too) should work. It's been discussed at much length in previous posts on "intake manifold RTV" or something. HTH :beer:
     
  3. Mar 5, 2006
    michigan_pinstripes

    michigan_pinstripes I'm not lost, I'm wandering

    Clarkston MI...
    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2003
    Messages:
    605
    There are a dozen different opinions out there on this. Over at the Turbo Buick site, I see use the old "Chevy" theory with a dab around the water jackets and in the corners. Spray on copper etc. Some gaskets come with a sealant. I don't know which is better frankly!

    I am a huge fan of an old school GM dealership brown goop called "GMS". Permatex probably made it because their Aviation "Form-A-gasket" brown goop looks and smells the same. Comes in a 4oz plastic container with a screw on dabber lid. Every parts store carrys it (well, tradional ones do at least). The neat thing is this stuff never really hardens and goes on like honey.

    I have sealed up a couple Oldsmobile 350 intakes with the GMS "brown goop" and no RTV and never had a failure.

    Do some research and get some other opinions. Also read the instructions on the gasket. I have even seen comments about putting the intake on dry (??) <sorry, not risking that>

    Also, smear some silicone on your rear main saddle seam (after crank is installed). hit it with Brake-Kleen first so you get a good adhesion and this "should" significantly reduce future rear main "spotting" that Buicks are known for.

    Good luck!
     
  4. Mar 5, 2006
    jcandhis63

    jcandhis63 Member

    Hillsboro, TX
    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2005
    Messages:
    87
    Thanks for the reply Alan.

    The area in question is the surface between the head and the intake. I got real familiar with sealing the front and rear of the intake on the small block Chevys and the 318 Chrysler products. RTV silicone works great for that. Back in the old days, I had to settle for good old Permatex.

    On this on this intake gasket, the manual states to apply GM 1050026 or equivalent around port areas of the cylinder head side of intake manifold gasket, and sealer #1052195 or equivalent to both ends on the intake manifold seals.

    I'm thinking it is really not necessary, but I am hoping somebody knows for sure. I plan to use RTV on the ends, its both sides of the port gasket I am curious about.

    JC
     
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