How do I remove the mechanical advance?!?!

So I caved. I said I was going to leave this alone for a little while as my head was ready to explode. As of this morning, I was gonna take a couple days off, possibly weeks. Here it is, 1am, 8degrees out, and Im' about to head outside for the second time tonight, yet another night in a row. I cannot figure out how to get the mechanical advance off. Call me a baby, an ameteur, whatever, but I would love to get it off so I can see my points nice and clear. Then start trouble shooting the condensor, points, everything. I think you have to remove the whole distributor shaft, but I couldn't imagine Jeep making it that hard. Logically, it should just pop off, but dosn't. It looks like it could possibly thread off, but I havn't been able to turn it. It must be pressed on? I tried prying it a little with a screwdriver, but I'm trying to change my kid antics of doing everything I can think off till something breaks. I'm sure its probaly very simple, and I look like a fool. Someone please inform me of the obvious!!! I know the coil is good as it gets 12v in and 12 out, the terminals and posts just need to be cleaned up a bit. I havn't touched the terminal that leads to the center of the distibutor cap, as I assume thats the one that carries 40,000 volts. I'll rewire the whole thing if thats what it takes, but god damn this thing is going to start. And it might just take a young kid, working by himself in the freezing cold at 1 am with the windshield removed soley so I can turn the key, hang over my firewall and in anticipation, check for the spark. I might be what this baby needs. Super stubborn, but very determined. I'm sure you guys remeber those days, and if not, your probably already out there as I type

 

The weights will come off very easily, but the plate they are mounted to is another story. The distributor shaft runs through it, and therefore has to be removed. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but thats that.
To get it out, you have to remove the distributor, remove the drive gear, and I think it will slide out after that. make sure there isn't any corrosion on the bottom of the shaft, as the distributor shaft has to pass through some bushings and there is very little clearance.
A lot of work just to get to the points though. You should be able to remove the points and condensor without having to do this however.....

 

Just "bump" the starter to rotate the plate to get the best access to the points. Access to points on a F head is wide open, now I see why you 225 boys go to a HEI setup.

 

To save yourself the trouble of leaning over the firewall, for a couple of bucks, you can go to the auto parts store and buy a remote starter switch and cable. Hook the two leads to the battery and start terminals on your starter solenoid and you can stand beside your front fender and turn the engine over with the button on the switch. Make sure it's in neutral, the parking brake is set, and the wheels are blocked.

tommy b

 

My friend just told me about that remote starter last night. He said its like a gun, scratch that tho. scratch removing the mechanical advance. I gave it a good look and everything finally made sense in my head. I was up till 7 am, fixed the spark, temporaraly bolted the shackle to the frame, and fixed the clutch linkage. I got up at 1 and am operating on 4 hours of sleep. Thanks for all the helpful info guys, check out my new thread.

 

Prestolite distributors are wide open, Delco pointed units are basically the only distributor ever made with this problem. All the Ford and Chrylser units I have worked on are wide open.

 

I knew that, each design has its own merits though.