Yet another broken bolt

Well it was an OK day until...

While changing oil in the rear diff I broke one of the cover bolts. It's high on the pumpkin - one of the one that holds the brake T block. Since it is so high I think I an run it for a while with no leak problem, but it gets better --- I broke off my easyout in the bolt while trying to extract it . Anyone have any advice on how to address this problem?

 

Bummin, russ!

The bolt hole should go all the way thru the pumpkin, so you can actually get at it from the back. Does the busted bolt go all the way thru, or are there some hole threads exposed?

Another question...when the cover's off, how much of the bolt/EZ is exposed out/above the hole?

B'Laster PB it for a few days and have a torch ready.

 

I broke off a water pump bolt today and was thinking the same question. Do you think with all the bolts on the water pump, that it will suffer with one short bolt missing?

 

If it does not leak, you might leave it alone. It will be no fun at all trying to remove a steel bolt from the aluminum front cover

 

thanks for the feedback!

 

Problem is that trying to drill that EZ out tip on your own, that you stand a good chance to booger up the threads in the pumpkin.

An idea: RTV that mating surface area upon reassemble, and use a C-clamp in stead of that busted bolt for a couple days 'till the stuff hardens/seals. Remove C-clamp after a few days and enjoy your Jeep!

 

X2. Do it right or don't do it at all, that's what my father taught me a looonng time ago.

 

Thanks all. You've given me a some new perspective.

 

I've found using a left handed drill bit sometimes will extract the broken off bolt, sometimes. You have to drill a hole anyway to use an extractor so let the drill work for you. I will go on record that I hate extractors, never had much luck with them, at least the type that wedge into the hole (always seemed counter productive!). There is a type that you drive into the hole and it has straight barbs that dig into the bolt, better but still limited success. If you can weld a nut/bolt to the busted off bolt, had much better luck with this method, if there is enough to weld onto. Make sure you drill a straight hole though, and in the center. Worse comes to worse drill it out and tap up one size, or Heilicoil I don't like them either but sometimes it works in a pinch.

 

One thing I used to do was use a thread punch. This is a punch that the tip is shaped like a parallelogram in x-section. When sharpened at an angle, you can usually get the tip in far enough to back out a broken easy out. Be sure and go at it from all possible angles or you could bind it up. After the easy out is out of the way, thin one wall of the broken bolt and use the thread punch to cave whats left of the bolt to the inside. Things I've used to thin the wall include hacksaw blades w/ the back ground off to fit, diamond impregnated wire (have rings on each end), chainsaw files and grinder bits, and I've never used one but a rotary tool bit should work too. If your patient this method works well (sometimes better than others) and it leaves you with an original size bolthole. When your done just run a tap through it and your back in business. I've done this a lot (worked in a '30s built powerplant when I first got out of the Navy), its simple, usually quick, and saves the threads.:v6:

 

I'll give it a shot.

 

Use a die grinder and a ball burr to grind thru the easy out then back to drilling-slowly.

http://www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/PROD/dremel-diamond-round/D-EK14

 

I just recently changed a water pump in my van then one in my grandpa's buick. I snapped a bolt both times when putting the new pump on. Think its about time to purchase that torque wrench. Anyways, those bolts will usually come out very easily, since they snapped due to over tightening and not rusted, corroded threads. In my van I used my classic method of directly notching it with a cutting wheel on a dremel, then backing it out with a flat head. It works great when somthing is stripped or snapped from over tightening, as long as the bolt went in smooth. As far as my grandpa's water pump, it was late, I was cold, very aggrevated, and it was dark. Shhhhh!!! don't tell him. Dosn't leak at all. I do always do a good, consistent job when applying rtv sealant tho, but with 1 bolt down, and the antifreeze dosn't move.

 

In my experiance I find the easiest way to pull out a broken bolt is with a welder. Just set a larger nut over the broken bolt and weld it to the bolt. It will not stick to the cast iron, and usually the heat from welding will loosen the bolt. Might take 1 or 2 tries. Works very well. Only bad thing is if it broken below the surface of the threads it wont work.

 

I have had a bit of luck using carbide tiped masonry drills. They tend to wander though. The easy out is extremely hard and if you are lucky a punch and a really hard smack with a hammer has been known to shatter the brittle steel ##&%$#out. As has been mentioned drill from the back until the drill meets the hardened steel then punch it from the back side.
Good Luck

 

With something as hard as an easy out, a punch will sometimes shatter the easy out, since they are so hard. Always try to drill all the way through or as deep as you can so there is room in the back to drive a broken bit or easy out into the cavity. I've had lots of practice.

Paul