rusted brake lines

You ever notice how one small job turns into something much bigger...

Bought my jeep (65 CJ5 F134) about a year ago and after reading some posts here figured I should swap all the fluids and grease the wheel bearings since I couldn't be sure how the PO took care of it. Once I had the front drums off I noticed the wheel cylinders looked pretty bad (the brakes were okay, but not great) so I decided to replace them while I was there. I replaced the front passanger side no problem, but when I went to disconnect the rubber line from the steel line on the driver side I must have over torqued it and the steel line snapped. This was a short line that goes to a 4 way junction on the front driver side. I thought it would be no problem, just replace that short line. Problem is that the connection to the 4 way juction is rusted stuck. First I tried spraying it with wd40, then PB Blaster, but I couldn't get it loose.

Upon further inspection the brake lines looked rusty themselves and I realized that I should just replace all of the lines, figuring that if I can't get them off the juction I could just cut them. So I ordered a complete line kit. Now I'm ready to install the new lines, but the line going to the MC is rusted stuck as well. I've been soaking it off and on for the past week and can't get it loose. I'd really rather not have to replace the entire MC just because the of the brake line connection, but I don't see any other option right now.

I know a lot of folks on here have replaced their brake lines, anyone have a problem like this? Thanks.

 

they can be tuff sometimes
best advice I can give is to make sure you use tubing wrenches
regular wrenches just slip off to easy

 

A little heat goes along way. Did the same thing your doing. Ended up removing the entire tub, lines and rebuilding the MC. Brake lines don't give you no brake.

 

if you are going to replace the lines anyway just cut the line off at the nut and use a 6 point socket and ratchet , if they are still tight try tapping the nut on the end with a hammer hard but not hard enough mushroom the end a little heat if needed but only a little rubber and heat don't get along together well.

 

I agree with the heat ideas. For another idea, if you get a 6 point socket on it, see if you can get an air wrench on it set really low and slowly work up. A gentle hammering action may help break it loose.

FWIW, a new master cylinder ain't that big of a deal considering what you're going through. I'd just replace/rebuild while doing everything else. It is your BRAKES after all....

 

peace of mind knowing the brakes work. also this is a good time to upgrade to dual master cylinder and/or 11" brakes (if you are so inclined).

 

BWAAHAHAHAAAA!! R)

I know this well, unfortunately. Once (only once) I set a propane torch to some brake line junction where one end was a rubber hose. About 45 seconds into the torching of the joint, the rubber hose exploded in my face.

 

"You ever notice how one small job turns into something much bigger..."

Yes.

I vote for replacing the MC - and why not go dual MC while you're at it. A little more time & $ but you're already in there.


Hippo - that adds new meaning to the term "burning rubber".

 

I started out the same way about two months ago. Now I have all new brakes.

Had the same problem with the 4 way junction. I had to take it off the frame, put it in a vice, hit it with the ol' mapp gas torch and the brakes lines came off smooth as silk. Saved all the connections but wound up making all new brake lines.