CJ-5's, Long Legs, and Seats

CJ-5's, Long Legs, and Seats - Project Photo

I found a '73 CJ-5 project last weekend, and went back to look it over closely with intent to buy. Problem is, there is nowhere enough leg room - this Jeep is set up with custom seat brackets and the builder bought Bestop high back seats, and the body below the sills is shop fabricated and spliced. {I'm 6'3" with a 33 or 34 inch inseam.)

I read through 9 pages of a search on seat, and I read Boyink's thread and looked over his web site, so it looks like I have a solution, but I still have a couple of questions.

First, how do you reach the shifter? Has anyone rigged up an extension?

I can live with the wheel well notch, partcularly since the tires look to me like they will hit the wheel opening first, but it will sure mess up the pretty new paint. The second question is whether anyone can show a photo of a stock body at the wheel well because I think the new body may be part of the problem - the well rises from the floor vertically, then angles back toward the top.

Third question(s). The stock Bestop seats aren't going to work, and I'm not crazy about modifying them. Does anyone make a seat without the extension behind the seat back and a thinner seat back? I can fabricate a seat similar to those used in light airplanes, but I would rather just bolt one in with as little thrashing as possible.

Thanks.

 

I'll reply tomorrow. Right now, I am too tired.

I can explain a way to unupholster the BOTTOM of the Bestop seats, cut a chunk out, and RE-upholster the bottom. This gives you about another 6" of room. See a thread I did about "Should I put a steel tub on my cj-5?" There are a few pics that show my 75.

I am 6'2", and I fit just fine.

 

BTW, areae, are you out of St. Luis, a Boeing employee, and a member on ARFCOM?

 

Yes. I wondered the same about your username when I saw your post. Small world. I looked through the tub swap thread yesterday - nice Jeep. I had the Bestop seats upside down this afternoon - I could see the bottom frame, and we talked doing precisely what you did, but it's hard to judge how much is involved without removing all the upholstery. I would still want to take some pad out of the seat back to improve the legroom a little.

Boyink,
Thanks for the photo.
I think the wheel house explains part of the problem - I guess I will take another look and a photo to be sure of the shape. I may also make up a wood seat mockup to install so I can get a better idea about where everything falls.

 

I spend more time on Jeep sites than ARFCOM anymore: Too many lurkers, post-count junkies, and repeat topics for me.

To do the seat mod:

#1: cut the staples from the bottom of the seat.

#2: Remove the 2 bolts per side that connect the back rest to the "butt rest". THEN, pop the foam and vinyl cover off of the bottom frame.

#3: Chop the tabs off of the butt rest frame that the back rest bolt to. REWELD them as far back on the butt rest frame as you can.

(Hint: Rebolt them to the back rest portion when welding. It helps to keep them aligned!)

Important tip: In this picture, see how close the back of the passenger seat is to the rear wheelwell? Check this clearance before perma-welding!!!



#4: Now, with the back and butt rests unbolted, take a look at the 2 frames. You'll see the butt frame is "square and parallel" at the center, but is tapered in where the back rest bolts to it in the rear. To keep life simple, and not affect geometry too bad, cut one spring section out of the butt frame in the center. Sorry, I don't have a measurment on how much to chop. When I did mine, I made it so when the frame was rewelded, the distance between the remaining springs is the same as before.

Side note: After moving the tabs back, why on earth would you need to shorten the butt frame? If you don't, the butt frame is too long, and it gives you a "Lazy Boy" effect, applying pressure to the backside of your knee pits.

#5: reweld the bottom frame together.

#6: (Optional) Take the seats to a reupholstery shop. It SHOULD be about $50 to have the pads reconnected. When I had mine done, I got taken for a ride of $150 total. HOWEVER, it turned out really sharp, I got my highback seats in an intermediate, and my Dad can drive my Jeep (He's got a big gut!)

The seats turned out great. There is roughly a 1/2" gap between the 2 pads now. Ergo, if change falls out of your pocket while driving, it doesn't get caught in the seat!!!

 

Thanks, Mugzilla.

I was going to attack this by cutting the aftmost cross bar of the seat bottom frame off and then welding it back in farther forward in line with the seat back - this way the seat bottom length is unaffected (and is just about perfect for me now) and the brackets for the seat back don't have to be removed.

I still didn't get one question answered above -
How is the reach to the shifter and the steering wheel?

I think I can fix the steering wheel reach with a spacer and dish, but I think the shifter geometry may not lend itself to more than a modest extension such as an after market shifter knob.

I'll make an offer on the Jeep tomorrow and update with photos.

 

My arms are comfortably bent when driving. The shifter is a nicew reach too.

IM me an email addy. I will send you a pic of me posing in the drivers seat. (Just don't post it on ARFCOM fof photoshopping!!!)

 

If the shifter is "in range" but uncomfortable, I would maybe look at warming up the steel with a torch and bending it where I wanted it. The question in doing that is - is there enough stick or does the stick need to be longer? Obviously, if there is not enough stick, disreguard this whole post.

Randy

 

I mocked a seat up and propped the steering column in Monday night.

I'll have to cut the wheel house back past the corner gusset, shorten the seat, and shorten the gas pedal to get a comfortable seating position. Raising the seat a little will help, but the windshield isn't installed so I can't tell whether I would be looking directly at the bugs, or not.

I also tried a new Wrangler on for size, and it's not over burdened with leg room. There is a 198X CJ-7 near by that I am going to look over, but I prefer to find a pre '79 with a straight 6 engine.

The wife says no scratch built, frame up projects til the basement is done; I guess I better start cleaning her crap out.

 

The 80s CJ-7s have some desirable features, sp. the D300 transfer case. The 81-on 258 I6 has a lighter crank and block, but is otherwise the same as the 71-80 engine. I'd avoid the SR-4, T-4 and T-5 transmissions, but a T-176 or TF999 would be ok. All came with the AMC 20 rear axle, which is weak but can be upgraded.

 

Here's a photo of the Jeep -

 

like the color on the wheels

 

Have you been holding out on me with the pics?!

 

Not holding out, I just don't have many interesting photos of the project.

Here are the rest -