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Anybody Totally Stainless?

Discussion in 'Flat Fender Tech' started by runnamuck, Jan 27, 2006.

  1. Jan 27, 2006
    runnamuck

    runnamuck look out!

    hickory, nc
    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2005
    Messages:
    223
    half the bolts in my 3b have seen better days and the other half are mia, so has anyone use the totally stainless kit for a ecj5 in their flatty? i'm sure that there are some that aren't needed but there should be some overlap, right? i like the idea of a wad of stainless bolts for around a bill. i don't mind using anti-seize, but are these quality bolts? tia.
     
  2. Jan 28, 2006
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    6,197
    I bought the kit for use on SSDutch...and have been happy with the quality so far. There will be some you won't use, and you'll probably still end up having to fill in with some extras here and there but for the price you still come out ahead.
     
  3. Jan 28, 2006
    Old Bill

    Old Bill Aggressively passive....

    Really Southern...
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2004
    Messages:
    822
    I've been reading Carrol Smith's Nuts, bolts, and fasteners, and if I'm understanding it right, stainless is good for corrosion resistance, but isn't that great for high wear/stress areas. For example, probably not a good choice for body to frame, or spring eye/shackle bolts.
     
  4. Jan 28, 2006
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    6,197
    You can get high-grade stainless if you're willing to pay the $$...

    I'd disagree on needing high-grade body to frame bolts though - they're the main reason I bought the kit.
     
  5. Jan 28, 2006
    Old Bill

    Old Bill Aggressively passive....

    Really Southern...
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2004
    Messages:
    822
    Yeah, I agree, as long as you use 2 donuts per bolt. In that configuration, you will never get even close to stressing the bolts. But I tend to over-engineer anyways. ;)
     
  6. Jan 28, 2006
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    6,197
    I didn't (not sure there were enough donuts), so we'll see what happens.

    'Course, the CJ5 had all of two bolts holding the body on, so anything is an improvement...:shock: :p
     
  7. Feb 1, 2006
    Mojave

    Mojave Member

    California High...
    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2005
    Messages:
    134
    Stainless steel fasteners can be helpful, but it can pay to educate yourself a little on what you’re buying. Stainless alloys are divided into 3 general types – Austenitic, Ferritic and Martensitic. All of them have chromium in the steel mix, and decent corrosion resistance - but only the Austenitic alloys have nickel in the alloy, and they are the only type suitable for automotive bolts. The best alloys are 300 series - 302, 304, etc., sometimes loosely referred to as “18-8” by lazy venders that want to be able to freely mix any of the 300 series alloys. The “18-8” designation refers to the 18% chromium and 8% nickel in the alloy. Problem is – some 18-8 alloys don’t fall into the 300 series range. One quick test is to try the bolt on a strong magnet. If it has more than a very weak attraction, it’s not a stronger 300 series alloy. The 300 series generally run close to the tensile and shear strength of grade 5 fasteners, but some are more brittle, and some softer, and not as strong – so it pays to know what you’re buying. A vender or jobber that knows their stuff will be able to tell you the exact alloy of the bolts they are selling. If they tell you it’s “18-8”, at least check every bolt with a magnet – or better yet, find a more reliable vender.
     
  8. Feb 1, 2006
    M38a1diesel

    M38a1diesel Member

    Wake Forest, NC
    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2005
    Messages:
    254
    I have access to an unlimited supply of Grade 5s courtesy of my employer, :D so methinks I'll stick with those. ;)

    Don
     
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