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Rear fuel tank install Q

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Hippo393, Jan 17, 2006.

  1. Jan 17, 2006
    Hippo393

    Hippo393 Jeepless

    Charlotte, NC
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    [​IMG]

    Can you guys see the above pic??

    On my 4WD rear gas tank ('70-'75 15-gallon), the seam in the middle is the problem. :mad: During the installation, the 2 rear-most corners of the middle seam are at 90* angles and bind against the rear frame rails and shackle bolt heads. :mad: You might be able to see the "corner" of the rear seam in the pic behind the auxillary fill neck.

    Sooo, using a bench grinder, I ground down the rear corners a smidge to clear the frame so the tank could be mounted level. Here's the concern.....One time I ground down an underseat tank's seam by 1/4" and gas slooshed out of it later. :shock: Will the same thing happen to this rear tank? Unlike the underseat dealio, the rear tank has an apparent "stamp" that binds the seam together all around, and that has not been violated with my latest fab effort (that "stamp" all around is visible in the pic as a dark line all around the tank). Anyone dealt with this b4?
     
  2. Jan 17, 2006
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
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    A new tank or used?
     
  3. Jan 17, 2006
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    What sparky said. If the tank is new, you could consider soldering the seams where you ground the corners, so it absolutely CANT leak.
     
  4. Jan 17, 2006
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
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    Or braze?
     
  5. Jan 17, 2006
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    Yup!
     
  6. Jan 17, 2006
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    FWIW I cut off a bit of the corners on SSDutch's tank and have had no issues.
     
  7. Jan 17, 2006
    Hippo393

    Hippo393 Jeepless

    Charlotte, NC
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    It's a new tank. Yes it could be soldered/brazed, but I would only do that if for sure gas slplooshage is inevitable. Perhaps it isn't?
    Mike: I didn't grind much, and certainly not past that thing that looks to be the seal stamp all around. Also, the entire rear seam isn't soldered together (you can see the 2 halves' edges), so that "stamp" must be the inner seal?? :oops:
     
  8. Jan 17, 2006
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
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    FWIW a poly tank doesn't have this issue. No seam.
     
  9. Jan 17, 2006
    tinker

    tinker GNGPN

    winnipeg,manitoba...
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    How about some gentle persausion to fold the lip up or down a mfh ?
     
  10. Jan 17, 2006
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    I wouldn't grind or cut much on a steel tank... Like Sparky said, use a poly......
     
  11. Feb 17, 2006
    jeepman75

    jeepman75 New Member

    Baker City, Oregon
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    Feb 17, 2006
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    I just finished the same install on my 75. I ground the corners down, but only a 1/2 inch, once I got it slide into the grooves near the rear bumper, I was unable to use the original stoppers, so I built a plate mount to hold the tank up and put new bolts in the original holes. Hope this helps :)
     
  12. Feb 17, 2006
    DanStew

    DanStew Preowned Merkin salesman Staff Member

    Lexington, South...
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    what poly tank did you guys use? I am pondering adding some more fuel to my jeep and add a rear tank.
     
  13. Feb 17, 2006
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
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  14. Feb 17, 2006
    Hippo393

    Hippo393 Jeepless

    Charlotte, NC
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    Yes that helps much, thanks for posting! ! ! I did grind a bit on mine just to clear the tapered frame. Haven't tested it yet tho. :oops:
     
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