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T18 transmission mount

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by xlr8n, Jan 9, 2006.

  1. Jan 9, 2006
    xlr8n

    xlr8n Member

    Sparks, Nv.
    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2005
    Messages:
    145
    Thanks to many sources, inluding this forum, I got my T18a stabbed in my '75 CJ5 (304/T15) which consisted of the following:

    - T18a/D20 donated from a '77 J10
    - '84 bellhousing/clutch fork donated from a I6/T4 (drilled and tapped)
    - Clutch disk for '76-79 CJ
    - Short shaft kit (shaft/bearing/gaskets/pilot bushing) from partsmike
    - Diaphram type pressure plate (used to accommodate throw-out bearing)

    For those of you that have done a similar swap, is there a bolt-on tranny mount available or did you have to fab one? If fabbed, can you describe what it looks like? Or better yet, a picture is worth 1K words.

    Thanks...
     
  2. Jan 9, 2006
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    3,437
    An early T14 mount works well. It bolts to the bottom of the D20 adapter.
    You need to slightly elongate the holes in the mount, takes 5 minutes with a round file.
    I tried to use the '72/up polyurethane mount. It didn't work for me.

    4WD Hardware ($14.95) or Krage ($13.95) have the mount. Be sure to get p/n 939995, as there is some confusion with some sources regarding the correct p/n for the early T14 mount.

    [​IMG]

    Edit: To be certain, you can measure the ctr-to-ctr dimension on the mounting holes on the bottom of your D20 adapter... and get 4WDH or Krage to measure their mounts
    Here are the other possibilities, maybe these will work for you, did not work for me (71 CJ5):
    (4WDH part numbers)
    #1370910, 72-79 trans mount, rubber
    #7160425, 72-79 trans mount, black polyurethane
    [​IMG]
     
  3. Jan 10, 2006
    xlr8n

    xlr8n Member

    Sparks, Nv.
    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2005
    Messages:
    145
    Thanks Lynn.

    I didn't get much input on this subject and I figured I would have to fab the mounts you listed somewhat anyway. I ended up welding a 1" L shaped piece of steel on top of the original T15 mounting bracket and slotted it so that it bolts to the adapter plate. It is a tight fit getting the two bolts in there but not impossible. I then had to cut the corner off from the rubber mount to clear the D20 pan. All this allowed me to use my existing mount, including the torque mount, so any future mount replacement/repair should be fairly easy. It actually looks decent too.
     
  4. Jan 11, 2006
    iamgeer

    iamgeer Member

    Calgary,...
    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2004
    Messages:
    226
    I used the one in the top left of the picture provided by lynn

    Karl
     
  5. Jan 11, 2006
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    12,529
    The top left one in Lynn's pic is the factory style T-18 mount as used in some years of CJ's, and most Wagoneers and Jeep Pu's. R&P sells these as I'm sure Walck's and other places also. Glad to hear you were able to make your set up work ok. What about pics? Nickmil
     
  6. Jan 11, 2006
    xlr8n

    xlr8n Member

    Sparks, Nv.
    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2005
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    145
    Not the best pic but I think it explains it. You can see the standard mount on the left side of the pic while the torque mount is on the right.
     
  7. Jan 27, 2006
    xlr8n

    xlr8n Member

    Sparks, Nv.
    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2005
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    145
    Re: T18 jumping out of 4th

    I finally got the drive shafts cut and installed. The spring perches had to be tweaked on the axle a bit due to the angle. This gave me the first chance to drive it and all works well except it won't stay in 4th gear. Any kind of tension on it, acceleration or deceleration pops it out of gear.

    I pulled the tranny cover and it appears that the shift collar doesn't quite cover 4th gear teeth completely. Also, it looks like there is too much gap between 4th gear and its syncro.

    Can I get a few of you tranny guys to take a look at this pic and also this picture and give me your professional opinion?

    The shift forks are straight and fine.

    Thanks...
     
  8. Jan 27, 2006
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
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    12,529
    Re: T18 jumping out of 4th

    Front what I see in the pic it's possible you have the wrong input bearing for that input shaft. There are two bearings. The earlier T-18's used a thinner bearing and the real late ones and T-19's used a thick bearing, in fact, the same bearing that fits the output shaft. On the real late ones using the thick bearing, the slinger between the bearing and input shaft was not used. I'm thinking the input shaft you got requires the thick bearing. This will move the input shaft closer to the synchro assembly about the amount that you need from looking at the pic. I've gotten caught on that before myself and is one of the things I look for when assembling a T-18. To visually look at the input shafts they appear the same, but the area the bearing presses onto is different. When you installed the input bearing did it go all the way against the slinger and was it tight to get the front snap ring on or was there room between the snap ring and bearing? If there was room, say .030"-.050" (going from memory here) or more then you have the wrong input bearing and need the thick one. Nickmil.
     
  9. Jan 28, 2006
    xlr8n

    xlr8n Member

    Sparks, Nv.
    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2005
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    145
    Nick -- You have well trained eyes. I pulled the tranny and opened it up on the bench. When I pulled the nose cone I immediately saw that I had the wrong width front bearing. The narrower bearing was allowing the input shaft to float back and forth. I double checked the pilot bushing and it appears to be okay and not damaged from the shaft floating in it.

    Once I get it all back together with the correct bearing I will post the results.

    Thanks for the input. You hit the nail on the head!
     
  10. Jan 30, 2006
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    Great! Glad to hear it was something fairly simple.
    Nickmil.
     
  11. Jan 30, 2006
    xlr8n

    xlr8n Member

    Sparks, Nv.
    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2005
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    This T-18 originally had the oil baffle behind the front bearing. This short shaft will not allow the oil baffle to be used with the wider bearing as the bearing lacks the width of the baffle to get the c-clip in place. Are there any ramifications to leaving this baffle out? I understand the later T-18's did not have this baffle.
     
  12. Jan 30, 2006
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    Nope. Just means your seal surface needs to be in good shape on the input and everything is well sealed. Make sure if you put sealer on the gasket (recommended) that you don't accidentally fill in the return hole below the bearing at the bottom of the bearing retainer. I'd put a small amount on the threads of the retainer bolts also. Nickmil.
     
  13. Feb 3, 2006
    xlr8n

    xlr8n Member

    Sparks, Nv.
    Joined:
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    Got it put back together with the wide bearing, less the oil baffle, and it works great.

    Many thanks to all, especially Nickmil for taking the time to analyze the pics.

    --
     
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