Rewiring HELL

I am starting to see why many just rip all the wiring out and redo it.
Decided I would clean up all the wiring done nicely with ground and fuse terminal Blocks.
Tracing each wire plus and minus ans switches etc one at a time. The fun part is I know I'm ending up with lots of wires that come from or go to some mystery loom.

 

If you think this is bad, I think it is preferable to ripping it all out and starting over....

 

You have just encouraged me big time.
I've got everything done except the turn indicators.
Had them working before so I know I win the war.

 

It took me a few hours and a half bottle of advil to figure it out. When I got my cj all the wiring was in a big ball on the floorboard. lol. I did get every thing to work. But now, the only original wiring that I used is the engine harness and ignition switch. Since my dash is new with all new gauges. I used all new wiring and even rewired back to the tail lights. I will eventually rewire the engine as well but only for peace of mind.

 

I've done a number of early Jeep rewires, and have found them to be time consuming but simple to complete. I like to adapt existing looms from early p'ups,vans, ect. This allowed me to utilize the existing fuse blocks. You can pick up a couple at your local wrecking yard for cheap. Remember to wire in any upgrades(Ie Delco alternators,electric chokes,fog lights, ect) or projected upgrades while you construct your loom.

 

I am quite familiar with jeep wiring, and I always dread tackling a rewiring project.

It isn't that it is hard, it is just time consuming and fraught with rework when a wire is slightly too long or slightly too short. Generally painful.

At one time I started a spread sheet with wire gauges, lengths, colors and circuits, but never finished it.

I think that if I ever resurrect the spreadsheet I'll take an existing wiring loom from a late model (1971) CJ apart and code each wire as to circuit, color, gauge and length. That way I could make a loom without even having the jeep in front of me.

I have some multi conductor wire (6 or 7 conductor) that I use for this which makes the wiring in the rear much easier.

Oh, by the way, that rubber grommet on the firewall with the aluminum housing that the wires come through as well as the throttle and choke...

Well, a 1957 Thunderbird uses a grommet that is 99% identical to that one, And it is a very common and easy part to get for the T bird, whilst the jeep part is non existent.

I have a catalog with the T-bird part number if anyone is interested...

kamel

 

Kamel, I would love that part number for the Grommet if you have it available. I'm getting ready to rewire as well and I was worried about how I would handle that hole, since mine is missing the grommet.

Also, when rewiring with a kit, like Painless, etc, has anyone added connectors to divide the tub from the engine compartment, tail section, etc.? I would think adding connectors would make the job of future tub or engine removal easier.

Jim

 

I've built enough off road race cars that I have learned a trick. I run the wires threough the holes in the various body parts. By the way Ialways drill them bigger than I think I'll need. Then I take pipe insulation, slit it and slide it overthe wires and into the hole. Then I tape it real well in both sides. In a number of Baja races I've never chafed a wire.
My problem with the jeep is none of the wire looms or just wires arecolor coded so the process of replacing fixing the wires becomes a nightmere. The only easily ID's colors are out of the turn indicator.
I can't think of any more frustrating experience than chasing a broken or burned wire out in the boonies.
THe aftermarket companies want to sell me a whole wiring kit. Uggggh

 

The grommet/pipe insulation trick at bulkheads is a good tip. The spaghetti nest is a classic problem with any older used car - some PO has always monkey-wired at least part of it. Unless you want to replace the whole harness, the only solution is good old dog work. Work on tracing down only one circuit at a time - either the circuit not working, or if everything works, pick a circuit in your spare time, and work out what it is and where it goes. Then flag it at fuse box, switch, etc. with a permanent label. This will really help you out when something quits out in the sticks, especially at night. My worst electrical problem happened when we jumped into Jezebel (my beat-up CJ3A) and headed out onto the desert. About 25 miles from home, and 15 miles from a paved road, it got dark so I switched on the headlights. Nothing. Traced the problem down to several missing wires! Some mope had tried to hotwire the Jeep (maybe didn't realize the starter has a kick-pedal) and had torn wires out from under the dash, and split with them. The ride home was interesting, with no flashlight and no moon out. I carry a spotlight and extra wire in my toolkit now.

 

I think the problem is either the ign switch, (must have been 10 wires attached to the access side, or something I haven't found yet.
I'm planning on cutting out the center of the dash for all my instruments to mount in and so i'll be able to easly have access.
Thought about just removing the whole dash but I'm all ready in enough of a mess.

 

The part number for the grommet that attaches to the firewall of the jeep is:

t-14608-1
t-14608-2
the '-1' part is the rubber piece, and the '-2' part is the chrome retainer.

Total cost without shipping ~ 15.00

This part was used in trucks as well

Available from:
NPD (National Parts Depot) at either of the following numbers
North Carolina 1-800-368-6451
Florida 1-800-874-7595

hope this helps

kamel

 

Regarding adding connectors --

In the late model CJ (~1971-1970) there are 2 connectors just outside the firewall. I can tell you where to buy these connectors if you are interested.

However there are still a few wires that are hard wired.

I've thought about adding connectors to the hard wired wires, but changed my mind.

One thing that connectors do is add another place for trouble. The circuits that do not have connectors are ones that, for the most part, are ones that you wouldn't want to lose due to a corroded connector.

I figured that it is best to have solid wires all the way through on those circuits.

There aren't that many wires that don't run through the connectors, and usually one does not remove the body tub all that often.

 

Wiring new Ign Switch

I just got my new Ign switch. Looking from the bottom with (single) BAT terminal on the right I know what the 4 connected blades top and bottom are. One is for connections with accessory (bottom) and ign on at the top.
On the left is a sngle terminal with just a "T".
THe single blade in the middle is not marked, anyone knows were that Is suposed to connect to?