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disc brakes wearing unevenly

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by hunky-d, Sep 27, 2005.

  1. Sep 27, 2005
    hunky-d

    hunky-d New Member

    Alaska
    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2005
    Messages:
    28
    Between my front and rear disk brakes, the rear is wearing out quickly. I have changed pads twice on the back, the front still looks good. I assume this is because I don't have them balanced between front and back.. I have the stock brake cylinder.

    So I need to do something. I see there is a proportioning valve that I can probably get. Seems like it wouldn't be real easy to set right but maybe it is.

    Just curious how people handle this.

    Another question which could be related: the inside pads on rear wear out and the outside pads are still good. Anyone else notice uneven wearing of inner/outer pads? I believe these are GM calipers - the CarQuest number is BD202 for the pads. I installed the disk brakes (been awhile) but it seems like they should be wearing evenly - the right parts move and all.

    cheers, Jim
     
  2. Sep 27, 2005
    TheBeav1955

    TheBeav1955 Member

    Wyoming, Mi
    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2004
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    296
    If the inside pads are wearing out while the outsides are not then you do have a problem with the caliper floating properly. It is not distributing the the force properly. I would think a bent pin or worn bushing causing the caliper to bind. Just my $.02.
     
  3. Sep 28, 2005
    hunky-d

    hunky-d New Member

    Alaska
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    Aug 31, 2005
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    yeah, you gotta be right. I'll double check when I change out the pads. Had to order in.
     
  4. Sep 28, 2005
    Chuck

    Chuck Sponsor

    Southshore Ma
    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2004
    Messages:
    1,463
    I have found that the inside pad always wears a bit more then the outer pad even in new vehicles with pads being changed for the first time, most likely because the piston is on the inside. Just a thought, are the rear caliper pins well lubricated and slide easily?
     
  5. Sep 28, 2005
    clay

    clay Driving

    Hopkinton, MA
    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2005
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    338
    I'm new here but do you have the right valve in the rear brake line it takes 2lb of residule presure not the 10 like in drum.
     
  6. Sep 28, 2005
    hunky-d

    hunky-d New Member

    Alaska
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    Aug 31, 2005
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    I'll lube everything up good when I attack the pad replacement. See if it moves good.

    Clay: I don't have a different valve on the brake line. Is this the proportioning valve that front and rear lines attach to? Or something different? Everything is pretty much stock except the disk brake assemblies.

    cheers, Jim
     
  7. Sep 28, 2005
    clay

    clay Driving

    Hopkinton, MA
    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2005
    Messages:
    338
    this would be the redsidule presure left in the line by the master cylinder I THINK it is 10 for drum and 2 for disc. I'm just getting there now after switching to 4 wheel disc. Did you change your master when you went to all disc?
     
  8. Sep 28, 2005
    hunky-d

    hunky-d New Member

    Alaska
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    Aug 31, 2005
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    Nope, all stock except for disc assemblies: rotors, backing plates, calipers & pads. I suppose the directions I had at the time didn't mention changing out the master or putting in a valve - or I missed it.
     
  9. Sep 28, 2005
    TheBeav1955

    TheBeav1955 Member

    Wyoming, Mi
    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2004
    Messages:
    296
    That might also be a problem. Many of the masters had a residual pressure valve built into them and if yours did it would have been setup for the drums ie 10 lbs
     
  10. Sep 28, 2005
    hunky-d

    hunky-d New Member

    Alaska
    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2005
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    So it sounds like I need a new master cylinder designed for disc brakes. I got some parts for my rear brakes from The Streetrod Manufacturing Co. - not sure they're still around as I haven't delt with them for years. But in the old catalog I have of theirs, they have a GM cylinder ( a couple models) for around $40. Probably double that now?

    I can google it to see if I can find the correct master cylinder to install - but if anyone has quick knowledge.. I would appreciate it.

    cheers, Jim
     
  11. Sep 29, 2005
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2002
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    4,275
    Lots of guys with 4-wheel discs run a MC from a late-60's Corvette.

    I just checked RockAuto.com and they show the one from a '68 'Vette with manual discs for $15 bux, plus $8 bux core charge. The number is Cardone # 101371, this is a rebuilt unit.

    They also show a Wagner # F64980 for $54 bux with no core charge for a brand-new unit.

    My experience with GMs has been that the inside pad (piston side) always wears a bit more than the outside pad. It is well worth replacing the retaining pins and the slide bushings when you do change the pads, if they are pitted or rusted at all. YMMV. ;)
     
  12. Sep 29, 2005
    hunky-d

    hunky-d New Member

    Alaska
    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2005
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    Thanks, some good info here. I may look at that 'Vette one. But I gotta pack - two week trip to the states to see some family. So the brakes will have to wait. I'll look in on this forum though from my travels now and again. cheers, Jim.
     
  13. Sep 29, 2005
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
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    Sep 20, 2002
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    3,437
    Have a safe trip Jim :)
     
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