75 stock fuse box

I'm in the process of getting my gauge lights operational and had a few questions.

My fuse box is pretty well rusted and I am looking for a way to clean thoroughly and then insure it stays that way. The fuses were pretty much corroded in their positions and some were blown, so I'm hoping once I finish this, everything will be operational again. I was thinking about disconnecting the battery and go at it with a toothbrush and some emery boards to remove rust and then following up with CRC circuit board cleaner.

Also the goop between the fuse box and the firewall plug is pretty nasty. I'm planning on just reconnecting these two and then reinstalling the 3/8 bolt and two torx screws. I guess the other option would be to remove all this grease, clean thoroughly and then replace the grease. Not exactly sure what type of grease it is but I imagine its only purpose is to prevent corrosion. What type would be used in this situation and do you think I'd be better off just leaving it alone ? Thanks !!

 

No easy way to restore the corroded contacts. I'd guess the original contacts are nickle-plated steel (nickel over copper over steel). N-P brass would be better, but since you say they are rusty...

IMO once the plating has failed, the only way you will get like-new weather resistance is to replate the contacts. I would be reluctant to file on the contacts a lot, since you'll expose more steel and accelerate the rust. Instead I'd try a phosphoric acid product, like Naval Jelly. PA converts rust (red iron oxide) into magnetite (black iron oxide) which is stable, hard and electrically conductive. Still wouldn't be as good as the original plating, but better than bare steel.

The goop is some kind of putty? I don't tnik it's grease. They used a sticky black and a beige putty to fill holes and weatherproof. I think they are both soluble in grafitti remover, like Goof-Off. Check that you don't dissolve the plastic, but Goof-Off (or similar) should be ok. Then replace with beige putty that you can get at the home center (ie rope caulk, has some other names).

hth

 

I think brake clean will take off the black tar in the elec plugs
like Tim mentions, filing/sanding will probably accel the problem
you don't have a lot of room to work in the box, maybe some small wire brushes might work, but make sure you blow it all out; use air press only if possible here,
otherwise, 4th of July when you reconnect the batt
maybe a boneyard fuse block from any 70s era AMC product would suffice if replacement is necc

 

The grease on the contacts and the plug from the firewall is called Di-electric grease. It prevents corrosion and is conductive (I believe). It also keeps the plugs from coroding together. Available at most autoparts stores.

 

What if I had an original fuse block that was available? I would send it to ya for 10 bucks. Interested???? I'll get it out of the barn this evening and take pic of it and post here.

 

thanks for the input guys. This is a great site !!

Spud..if you could attach pictures of the fuse box that would be great.
The fuse holders were really corroded, but I used some naval jelly and an old toothbrush and then shot it good with compressed air and then followed up with some CRC electronic cleaner ...

 

I don't know if this will help. I haven't used it but I'm looking into it. Kinda expensive but I think it will solve my problems once and for all. It comes with the fuse block, they may have the fuse block by it's self too. (I've never attached a link before so bear with me)

http://www.quadratec.com/cgi-bin/sgdynamo.exe?HTNAME=jeep/painless/painless.html&checked=Y

 

CJ'sCJ

Thanks for the link. I've heard of the painless kits. looks like a great product if you need a total rewire. I particularly like the updated fuse boxes..if I go with some aux lighting i might look into one of their basic kits.

Fortunately, my wiring seems to be in great shape; it was just the fuse box that was marginal. The white lettering on the box itself had worn off, so I'm not exactly sure which fuse is for what circuit. My 75 service manual has wiring schematics in the back, but it looks like hyroglyphics to me.Anybody know the layout and amp requirements for the particular circuits ?

 

The '72 manual has a more pictorial approach - maybe that will help.
http://www.c104.net/manual/Section_22.pdf

 

timgr

Thanks !! That is incredible detail, just what I needed. Probably not to much difference betwwen your 72 and my 75. Did you happen to notice a detailed layout of the fusebox ?

 

Hey, I finally found my factory fuse block for the 75. It's in pretty decent shape. I have a cheap camara so it's not the greatest pic. I'm installing a Painless harness, so I won't need any of the old harness at all. Here goes the pic..........

 

Before 75 they didn't have a fuse box. Just used inline fuses. So the 72 diagram will be different from your 75.