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Water pump bypass hose

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by kiowamtp, Aug 17, 2005.

  1. Aug 17, 2005
    kiowamtp

    kiowamtp Member

    DFW
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    Dec 24, 2004
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    618
    Ok y'all (just came back from Texas).

    My FHead is still overheating. I have done quite a bit of reading and research on the site.

    My fan is about two inches from the radiator and centered. I do have a shroud. I have a new 7 pound cap, a new 180 thermostat, and flushed as best as I could with a hose. Fan is nice and tight on the water pump and is the stock fan. Upper hose is hotter than the lower when it heats up. There is not much circulation in the radiator when I run it with the cap off so I am thinking there is a restriction somewhere. My radiator has an overflow line on the filler neck itself, not on the cap. Either way I am not sure if it is stock or not.

    I do NOT have a bypass hose from the pump to the head. I removed the top plug and it looks like it has been bone dry. I am going to put in the pump bypass hose tomorrow.

    My question is do you think this will solve the problem or is there some other blockage not alowing the water to circulate. I was thinking of putting on an adapter on the top plug hole that would allow me to attach my compressor blow gun to it and blow it out. Would an air chuck hook up to the top plug be too much pressure or would that even work. Hell it may be just plain dumb to do that, but at this hour I am not thinking too clearly. Oh yes I did blow out the pit**** on the passenger side of the block while I was running water the water hose through it. It drain out nice and clear.

    This is short of taking it to a shop and having the radiator cleaned.

    Any other suggestions I may have missed at this late hour prior to putting on a new fan and pump. Now I am going to sleep :evil:
     
  2. Aug 17, 2005
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2002
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    12,382
    F-heads are good at getting air trapped so the bypass hose should do the trick. Do you have a heater? A hose between the plug on the water pump and the plug on the back of the head should also remedy the problem. I don't have a bypass hose but do have heaters in both Jeeps. The top hose should be hot when the thermostat is open and the bottom hose cool. The overflow should come off the neck as you described. Have you had the temperature go up and the radiator overflow?
     
  3. Aug 17, 2005
    kiowamtp

    kiowamtp Member

    DFW
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    618
    Glenn

    No I do not have the heater hooked up yet. So are you saying to hook up the small bypass hose. I wasn't aware there was another plug on the pump to have another line going to the rear. I'll have to check that.

    Also, I haven't had any coolant overflow yet.

    Thanks for da help!!
     
  4. Aug 17, 2005
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2002
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    The correct water pump will have 2 threaded holes, one on top and one on the passenger side. The passenger side one is for the heater. You can run a hose from the passenger side one straight to the place on the back of the head till you get the heater hooked up. Keep us posted on the results. :hurrican:
     
  5. Aug 17, 2005
    kiowamtp

    kiowamtp Member

    DFW
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    Glenn

    Yes I do have the two plugs. There are two plugs on the back. One on the very back (small plug). That one is hard to get to. I have one on the top back passenger side about 3-4 inches from the back. I am going to use that one for the other line unless you see a problem with it. That should provide a bypass for the rear and the front.

    Thank again for the help!
     
  6. Aug 17, 2005
    kiowamtp

    kiowamtp Member

    DFW
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    For Glenn or anyone else here is another question in reference to the large plug on the passenger top side rear. Is that used to "burb" the head and release trapped air or can I just hook up another coolant bypass there from the water pump?

    I found the other plug on the rear driver's side but it is pretty tight spced by the firewall.

    Thanks
     
  7. Aug 17, 2005
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
    Joined:
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    The passenger side plug on top is the one you need to run a hose from the water pump to.
     
  8. Aug 17, 2005
    kiowamtp

    kiowamtp Member

    DFW
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    Sounds good. Thanks a bunch Glenn!
     
  9. Aug 17, 2005
    kamel

    kamel Senior Curmudgeon

    Erlanger, Kentucky
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2003
    Messages:
    891
    There should be a hole in the water pump and one just above it in the head. Remove the plugs and connect an "L" shaped hose. That is what jeep did when the vehicle did not have a heater.

    I've seen this happen twice on a couple of engines I rebuilt, and I think it was air trapped inside.

    I put a drain valve on that rear passenger side tap you are talking about and 'burped' the system. It made me feel like I was doing something right, but I don't think it really helped at all.

    Ya just gotta fool with it, rock the jeep a little, and eventually it will come around.

    I always wondered if one filled the system at a severe angle (e.g. the jeep front wheels were 12 - 18 inches off the ground) if that wouldn't cause any trapped air to percolate out. Dunno.

    One thing I didn't do, but next time I have one apart I will make sure I do is to ensure that the thermostat is touching metal on block and head side. Those gaskets you get have a hole just a little too small so that the thermostat will rest on the gasket on one side or the other. I'm going to trim that next time so that the gasket does not rest on the thermo or vice versa.
     
  10. Aug 17, 2005
    blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    Portland Tn.
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    Sep 20, 2002
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    4,350
    You can also drill an 1/8" hole in the t stat to allow it to burp.
     
  11. Aug 17, 2005
    kiowamtp

    kiowamtp Member

    DFW
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2004
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    618
    Thanks all. I installed the two hoses and kept the cap off until it reached operating temp. It idled between 200 and below. Once I got it out at highway speeds it kept it around 190 and below. Looks like it is working as planned. Ran it for a good ten minutes then had to go back to work.

    I have a 7 pound cap and a 16 pound cap. Napa called for the 7 pound cap but I have read that the 16 pound cap is better for keeping your engine cooler. Any thoughts on this. BTW I used the 7 tonight.

    Still wondwering if I should just go ahead and have the radiator cleaned. It doesn't seem to circulate to well. The pump feels tight and is not leaking.
     
  12. Aug 18, 2005
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    I'd stay with the 7 lb cap. Having the radiator cleaned and tested is a good idea. Even if it isn't dirty you'll know the condition of it and can eliminate it as a problem. To me it's money well spent. You won't notice a lot of circulation however with the F-head since it's a small system (relatively speaking). As long as you can tell it's flowing when the thermostat is open it should be fine.
     
  13. Aug 18, 2005
    kamel

    kamel Senior Curmudgeon

    Erlanger, Kentucky
    Joined:
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    The radiator is the 'weak' link in the chain, and will determine what size cap to use.

    If in doubt, cruise on over to your local radiator repair shop and ask them to look at it and tell you what size cap to use.

    My experience is that a good 'ol radiator guy can look at the opening and the radiator and tell you what you need.

    If you want it to run cooler, swap in a 170 degree thermostat
     
  14. Aug 18, 2005
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    FWIW 7lb is the correct pressure cap. You should never have any problem whatsoever with it.
     
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