Flickering headlights

Boy have I got one for you guys. Two weeks ago I installed a new fan shroud which included pulling out the headlights to get to a couple of nuts. In the process I must have pulled a connection apart because every time I turn the lights on when I'm in the Jeep, they flicker and turn off. Now it's only when I step on the nerf bar or lean on the side of the Jeep this happens. Of course when I am standing in front of the Jeep trying to find a loose wire or bad ground it doesn't happen. Any great ideas??? I don't really want to pull the rad and shroud out again, it was a bitch to work on, but I guess I will.

Not really a question I guess, but it sure is funny when I go to climb in and the lights go out. People also get out of the way when I come by at night with flashing headlights. It's my own version of an expensive strobe package

High5

 

Is it just your headlights or do the running lights do it as well?

Check all your connectors first. If those are all tight, I would suspect a wire is caught between the radiator and the grill somewhere and is shorting out.

 

If all of the wiring connections are tight, including good grounds, it's probably the circuit breaker in your headlight switch gone bad. Some are even fused - if so, try replacing the glass fuse.

There is a button on the switch body that releases the pull shaft & knob. You'll need the shaft & knob for your new switch.

gj

 

Yeah, i was going to guess loose ground wire.

If the headlights and the front marker lights are flickering, then maybe pinched wire, but that should ground out and pop the fuse. Loose plug in connection more likely the case.

 

I had the same thing happening to me a few years ago. I could hear the lite switch circuit breaker popping, and then it would reset itself once it cooled off. Turned out to be the old 4-wire flat plug I used when fat towing. It had shorted internally and caused the problem. Just a thought...

 

Nope nothing is popping. Everything either is on or off up front. The interior lights and tails are unaffected. The headlights are controlled by a simple toggle switch. I can't turn on just the parking lights. It's gotta be a bad connection or ground right???

It's been so damn hot here lately that I haven't wanted to f**** with it. I just don't drive at night

Thanks

High5

 

Oh Yeah, and what is "fat towing" I'm a bit concerned about that one
Just playin, I appreciate the help. Just couldn't resist :twisted:


High 5

 

I know that people take offense at this question, but remember that the engine is mounted basically to rubber & so is the body ergo:

Do you have a ground strap from the body to the engine & the engine to the frame?

Old starter to solenoid wires are great for this, as they are heavy enough and aready have flat ring connectors.

As far as running toggle switches, I gave up on relays years ago and run 230V-30Amp toggles with inline fuses (rated as necessary).

I once had an electrical problem (back around) '85) that had me going through high output alternators, starters, dual high CCA batteries, etc. One day & pulled a firewall connector on the driver's side, saw corrosion on one connnection (I think '74 was pre-dilectric), sprayed it w/WD40, scraped the one connection w/ my blade, bridged it w/ a piece of stripped 16 Ga. in the female 1/2 - re-connected & ran ever since until my Painless wiring kit 5 yrs ago.
Now all of my wires get sprayed w/WD40 inside & out; including switches, about once every 2 months.

gj

 

Nope I don't take offense to that at all. I have a fiberglass body so it wouldn't due me much good to run a ground strap to the frame. Everything was working perfectly(well as good as any old Jeep runs) until I started messing with this new shroud I installed. I think it has to be a bad connection so I will pull the headlight out again and check connections. I just keep finding more stuff as I work on it. The timing still isn't "right" and now this wiring thing.

Good thing I love this Jeep.

High5

 

It can be a love/hate gig, just like Hogs, but I sold my chopper & traded my stroker to my Jeep mechanic for services to be rendered. I kept my Jeep (had it since '81) & if I'm ever able to ride again, I'll get a Beemer or Triumph.

I would guess by your answer that you're running all grounds to a terminal block & then right to the battery neg.

You'll get it figgered out.

If you don't mind a sidetrack, what brand is your f-glass body & do you think it could be braced for a body lift?

gj

 

It's a 4WD hardware body. This is a pretty beefy body from like 10 years back. I would have no issues sticking a body lift on. It is very sturdy. I have heard people complain about the rigidity of fiberglass, but this one is tough.
High5 :stout:

 

I understand that the big thing is to brace a f-glass body like one would the plywood core to avoid sagging.

Thanks for replying.

gj

 

How about the connections to the dimmer switch. I had one that took a dive and I had thesame sort of problem. It sits out in weather and get a lot of throw off from the tires. Just a thought.

 

Gonzo: When I installed (created, actually) my 3" BL, I started with a 24" long rubber "log" w/ hole in the middle (lengthwise!), 2 pieces of 6"x60"x1/4"flat stock and 2 each 6"x6"x1/4". I cut the long flat stock to span the underside of the tub (side to side) and centered on the corresponding body mounts. I used the 6x6 squares on top of blocks on the front-most body mounts where I could not span all the way across b/c the drivetrain is in the way. This works really well to stiffen my POS fiberglass tub. I have seen fiberglass tubs sag miserably where the point loads occur on the body mounts. This has totally solved that problem, while adding a nifty 1/4" of lift

Sorry for the hijack. Figure out the cause of the flickering yet?

 

Thanks Lav. I read your body mods on another post, but now I know where they are & w/save to file.
In fact, somebody was lambasting our 4" body lifts I don't think they ever responded w/a good reason. The whole idea is to make clearance for tires.

gj

 

Hey guys,
After tinkering with the Jeep last night for about an hour and getting the manual out, I figured out why my lights are flickering. Apparently the headlights are grounded to the grill, which grounded to the frame. The mounting bolt on the under side of the grill had come loose, thus when I placed weight(me) on the side of the Jeep it would lose it's ground because the fenders are glass. I figured this out after a last ditch effort of tightening this bolt and got some sparks.
It's fixed now and I can drive in the dark. It's always the easiest, least likely fix isn't it????

High5

 

First rule of troubleshooting electronics/eletrical connections. Always make sure you have a good ground. Glad you found the problem and it was an easy fix.

 

Good to hear. I only ever find the easy fixes after attempting at least 2 or 3 of the hard ones...

 

Yeah,
me too. This is the third or forth night I have tried to fix it. I have had those headlights out more times than I care to count Now at least I can drive at night.

High5