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So, why wouldn't *this* work for a saginaw mount

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by M38a1diesel, Aug 4, 2005.

  1. Aug 4, 2005
    M38a1diesel

    M38a1diesel Member

    Wake Forest, NC
    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2005
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    254
    I took the box and mounting bracket from the DJ5, cut a notch out of the bracket so It would fit the front bumper of the M38a1, and clamped it in place temporarily.

    So why couldn't I fab a spacer for the top of the frame rail.....
    [​IMG]

    as well as in between.....
    [​IMG]

    And then secure it in place with four bolts in the frame rail, and two bolts in the front bumper, like it was in it's original application?
    [​IMG]

    What with all this talk about welding these on, I got the feeling I'm overloking something obvious. That's why I'm asking first and not just going ahead and doing.

    Don
     
    M38a1diesel, Aug 4, 2005
    #1
  2. Aug 4, 2005
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    Nov 6, 2002
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    4,275
    I think that might work out just fine Don. Looks like you rmount triangulates up to the front bumper to provide side-to-side stability under load, which can be a big deal with a saggy conversion.

    The biggest welding task I had with the conversion on my '2A was in boxing & strapping the C-channel frame on the flattie, because the front frame horns on the flatfenders are notoriously weak. Even after boxing in the frame horns, I still used tube spacers on the bolt holes to keep from collapsing the sides when I torqued up the box mount.

    I would caution you though to get your tie-rod and draglink sorted out BEFORE you weld the mount or anything else. I mocked everything up (tacked and clamped) and rotated the steering assembly through it's entire range of motion before I made a bunch of welds that would be a bear to remove. Once I was sure on the draglink angle and that I didn't have any binding issues, I went ahead and welded it up.

    Oh, and my unsolicited $.02 is that the slime green paint has to go. :rofl:

    Good luck!
     
    w3srl, Aug 4, 2005
    #2
  3. Aug 4, 2005
    jd7

    jd7 Sponsor

    Nacogdoches,Texas
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2004
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    1,745
    Can't see why it wouldn't work, I'd want it to be thicker metal but a cross brace will help. Use what you got and make it work.
     
    jd7, Aug 4, 2005
    #3
  4. Aug 4, 2005
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    I'm thinking that this has got to be a relatively rare piece, since the majority of the DJ-5s were right-hand steering...
     
    w3srl, Aug 4, 2005
    #4
  5. Aug 5, 2005
    M38a1diesel

    M38a1diesel Member

    Wake Forest, NC
    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2005
    Messages:
    254
    Steve,

    This Jeep actually has a "mirror image" of this bracket and the cast steering box mount on the other frame rail. So it looks as though it could easily have a RHD or LHD steering box installed, depending on what was spec'd on the build sheet. Neat, huh? :D

    I think I read someplace where the LHD DJ5s were used as "supervisors trucks" buy the Post Office.

    And don't worry, I do indeed plan on getting the tie rods and drag link squared away prior to installing this whole appuratus permanently. And mark my word, the puke green paint IS going bye bye! Don't know what the last owner of that poor old Jeep was thinking/smoking. :cry:

    Don
     
    M38a1diesel, Aug 5, 2005
    #5
  6. Aug 5, 2005
    gte636p

    gte636p Member

    smyrna, Ga
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    492
    tie rods... grrr. mounted mine too low tonight to work with the flipped rods and trying to use the shaft that came with the box, but can't do anything until the exhaust gets straightened out to know for shure. that bracket looks like it'll keep things from dragging on too long though. that and the column from the postie should help out quite a bit.
     
    gte636p, Aug 5, 2005
    #6
  7. Aug 5, 2005
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    So you flipped your tie rods to the tops of the steering arms? How'd you do that, you use the conversion studs to go with heim ends? Mounting the box higher up on the frame would have worked out a LOT better with the engine mounts on my rig, but that wasn't an option with the Commando mount. :(
     
    w3srl, Aug 5, 2005
    #7
  8. Aug 5, 2005
    53Flattie

    53Flattie Intigator

    Easley, SC
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    53Flattie, Aug 5, 2005
    #8
  9. Aug 5, 2005
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    w3srl, Aug 5, 2005
    #9
  10. Aug 5, 2005
    gte636p

    gte636p Member

    smyrna, Ga
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
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    yup, those are the ones. the look like they put verything on a straight line the way i have it ounted though. the way it looks now it's tempting to run the inverted y setup again because there is literally no angle in anything. i'm sure i'd get in trouble with something though... stupid bds springs with military wrap right where the tie rod comes through. when un-flipped they hit the wrap when pulling out of the driveway / driving down the ATL streets (best in the world if you like 8 inch deep potholes and launching ramps when you cross an intersection).
     
    gte636p, Aug 5, 2005
    #10
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