Fuel Guage

Does anyone know if the fuel guage will not work if the temp guage is not being used on a 74 cj5? Both are in the speedo. I use a temp guage elsewhere on my dash and the gas guage doesn't work.
Any help is appreciated.

 

This site http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep/Gauges.htm should help.

 

Yes, you can run the fuel gage separately.
Make sure your flat insulators are installed properly.

gj

 

Thanks, this should help alot.

 

Did you ever get everything working?

 

Weekends have been heck!! I haven't had a chance to work on it. But thanks for asking. I've got another problem that may take priority, passenger side axle oil seal seems to be leaking and I get a slight metal to metal rubbing sound when turning. Anyone ever take an axle out? What is involved?

 

I'm in the same situation w/ the fuel gauge. Someone did a custom panel and dash and BOY-O-BOY is the wiring all over the place. The guy got a painless kit and completely ignored the directions. Schmuck. I've got my volt, oil and speedo working, but can't figure out the gas and water. :?

 

Did you look at the link above that Chuck posted. That explains alot.

 

I've got seperate gauges instead of a combo gauge. Guy before must have thought he had "skills" as the dash is different than anything I've seen before. I'm going to break down and just have a shop do it I think. There's a classic car place not too far from where I work.

 

I've got the exact same problem - fuel guage doesn't work and the electrical temp guage has been by passed with a separate mechanical SW guage.

Otherwise mine is all stock 1966 CJ5 and the only thing I see is the original temp gauge sending unit was replaced with a SW thermocouple gauge. No cut or broken wires anywhere and the original temp wire at the engine side is just diconnected (and insulated with tape.) If you put a test light on the wire you get a flashing or pulse signal.

My fuel guage sending unit inthe tank seems to work if I put a meter on it but the guage on the dash will not. Is it possible the fuel and temp guages in the spedo are somehow linked so that if one is not functioning the other doesn't either? Or is my fuel gauge just faulty?
Eddy

 

First, double check that you're leaking gear lube & not brake fluid from a wheel cylinder.
I'm assuming you have Dana 30 (stock). This will work on 44's & 60's also. Some D-60's just don't run pumpkin cover gaskets.
You have to pull the pumpkin cover, since the seal is at the outer end of the pumpkin. Let it drain for inspection, keeping a lookout for pitted steel in the ring & pinion. It can start with a dark discoloration.
Again, I'm assuming you have locking hubs. You may want a Chilton's for this. Just lay out all the hub parts as you remove them. This will give you a chance to check for any causes of the metallic noise. Your front wheel bearings are in the hub assebmby & may also be grinding if worn. If the bearings & races look good but even have a bit of blue tint or any scratches, they have been heat stressed & should be replaced. The races can be punched out from the back side with a heavy scew driver - AMC provided a notch for that purpose in the inner hub. the bearing seals need a seal puller, but you can work them out carefully with any thing with a hooked end (ie: miniature claw hammer, etc.)
if you want, you can pull the inner & outer hub as an assembly. Wash all old grease from the bearings if reuseable & let dry. Get a large handful of grease. Only push the grease from the large end until it comes out the small taper, then smear around the rollers. I don't have the exact torque handy, but it's approx. 40 to 50ft/lbs. when you get your bearing nut snug, spin the assembly while tightening to spec, then back off slightly & retighten to set the bearings. Pay attenton to any locking washers, etc.
If you're running full-time lock, it's much easier to break down & reassemble than locking hubs. Make sure that your inner hub bolts & threads are clean as a whistle and all have the locking tabs inplace. You must checK torque specs on these bolts or your inner hub blots will eventually work loose & destroy your inner hub. I would use a drop of green Loctite on the bolts along with the steel locktabs.
You'll see your spline shaft attached to a U-joint (another possible cause of matallic noise), the U-joint w/be attached to the axle shaft, just twist it a little & pull straight out. Check your spindle bearings & races with the shafts out.
Install the new seal. Coat your new pumpkin/axle bearing rubber lip with some gear lube before
sliding the axle back through or it will burn out right away. For first time assembly, leave your pumpkin open to make sure the seal hasn't moved when you slid the axle through.
I think that a Dana 30 also has a cover gasket. Lightly coat it w/permatex gasket sealer or Blue. If there is no gasket available, you can use a good permatex gasket maker like on some Dana 60's.
refill w/your choice of gear lube. I prefer heavier lubes.
Locking hubs only go together one way or they won't work.
Check all of your fluid levels & U-joints while underneath for any causes of the metallic sound. Don't forget your steering shaft U-joint. The joint is cast on hardened steel & the spline will strip out jump street if not tightened properly. I've lost my steering shaft @ 45 MPH, Thank God for my St. Christopher Medal.
Good luck.

gj

 

Thanks alot. This will help alot.

 

I have a 66 cj5 going to put a custom dash in how do i get the right gas gauge for the sending unit, any help would be great thanks