Stuck spark plug #5 cylinder

I got a stuck plug on number five cylinder. The problem is the plug shell is so corroded that my 13/16 thin walled plug sockets just skips around without grabing. My deep 13/16 six point sockett won't fit in the well around the plug so it can't catch it either. The PO changed out all the plugs but his one. I wonder why! I tried shimming the socket with some brass shim stock but that didn't hold. What would be the next seize down from 13/16? 25/32? How about a metric socket slightly smaller than 13/16? Any ideas would be much appreciated.

 

paging Patrick ......

Bruce you're on the right track
whatever it takes, maybe sacrificing a socket to get the job done

 

Bruce 13/16=20.50mm so a 21 or 22mm socket might, help I ground down a craftsman plug socket for clearance my 225 is a tight fit too. I used a sears socket because they warranty everything and they are strong.

 

How about the Craftsman Bolt/Nut Remover?
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00952166000

 

since you are replacing plug any way: break the ceremic top off and use what ever socket fits. I have no problems w/my craftsman socket fitting, might need to clean out some rust/dirt.

 

There is in fact a 25/32" socket made I have one in craftsman it is a short but you might be able to pound one down onto the plug.

If it gets there the plug Helicoil repairs do work if this damages your head threads in any way.

 

The Craftsman Bolt-Out removers work really well. break the ceramic off and you should be able to fit one over the remaining plug.

 

once loose, blow out all the debris though BEFORE you remove the plug
ceramic falls inside cylinder = BIG problems

 

Thanks for all the suggestions and information. I think I will start by grinding my six point socket to fit the well around the plug. If that skips then i will move on to the metrics. I'm not ready as yet to be driving on only five cylinders if i still can get the plug out. I have scraped and blown out all the rust and crap from around the plug. I've had a great deal of sucess removing stuck bolts and nuts using heat from a plumber's propane torch. Once I can get a socket on the plug and find it still won't move, I'll heat it and then try again with my long socket wrench. In the mean time I'll soak it with Blaster.

 

Might be better off running the engine a while, if you can, before taking the plug out. Easy way of heating the area. Quick too.

 

Attached is a picture of my no longer stuck plug and "custom" sockett. It took a while grinding the six point sock down. I used a caliper to meaure the thin walled multi-point sockett which did fit in the plug well but skipped over the plug when I attempted to unloosen it. With the caliper I checked my grinding progress and used a can of water to keep the sockett cool. Once the plug started to move I used some compressed air to clean out the crud around the plug. Thanks for your suggestions.

 

ah, the thrill of victory.......

 

It's always nice when threaded things spin freely in a counterclockwise direction.....Glad you got it! Felt the same way when I removed my exhaust manifold studs.

 

make sure you use never-seize on the threads to prevent a repeat.

 

There is another advantage to using a never seize compound. It will help create a better seal around the threads. On our mustang I use this and have found it helps perfectly seal the old threads. Use a spray bottle with soapy water to test for sparkplug thread leaks.

A tell tail sign is carbon on the threads of an old plug. Showing that combustion has been creaping up the threads.

 

Thanks. I've used never-seize for many years and it is well worth it. One thing I did that I haven't done before was to use compressed air to clean around the plug after I got a turn or two on it. I couldn't believe the crude that came out and it made hand screwing of the new plug with never-seize a breeze. I usually give a plug one quarter of a turn with the rackett after it seats. I use the sockett with a short extension when I'm getting the plug to seat by hand.
It is a little more difficult to do a soapy water test. I think I'd need a mirror and a third person at the switch.

 

I had the same thing happen on a Trooper, only the plug broke off at the threads leaving the threaded part of the plug in the block. Ended up pulling the head and had a machine shop cut out and repair the hole.

 

So after you replaced the plug, how does it run? Better I hope.

 

This '68 jeep V6 has a HEI distributor and the plug was not that bad as far as the electode was concerned. Changing the the plugs, frayed wires and getting the missing retaining ring for the distributor cap wires was done to cleanup what the PO had left as a mess. Don't know if the HEI makes all the difference but my '68 with the HEI certainly has more power and pull then my '71 with the standard distributor. I soon as the buget will permitt the '71 will get an HEI.

 

Nice work Bruce!