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Engine Swap??

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by High5, Jun 15, 2005.

  1. Jun 15, 2005
    High5

    High5 Member

    Urbandale, IA
    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2005
    Messages:
    802
    I'm thinking this might be a taboo subject here since it wouldn't be a traditional Jeep, but has anyone swapped in a Ford 302 into their Jeep. Does the motor bolt up to the stock bell housing or do I need an adapter. I looked on Novak Conversions, but didn't find help there. I'm just weighing my options if I can't get this damn 258 to run better. New carb and ignition and it still isn't right. I thought it was intially, but it's back to back firing and idling rough. I'm about ready to give up on it. I know a mechanic, might take it to him to try and set timing right.
    Thanks
    High5 :beer:
     
  2. Jun 15, 2005
    Chuck

    Chuck Sponsor

    Southshore Ma
    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2004
    Messages:
    1,463
    If you haven’t already you may want to try a leak down test. There may be some internal reasons for the ruff idling. Tim gave me a suggestion to look up leak down testers on Google where you can make your own inexpensively.
     
  3. Jun 15, 2005
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
    Messages:
    23,596
    The Ford engines will not bolt up to the AMC bellhousings. There are some Jeep transmissions that will bolt to a Ford bell (T176, T150), but not the '75 T18.

    JMO - the T18 and 258 in an intermediate Jeep is a great combination! It's worth your while to get that 258 running well. The 258 can be easily and cheaply souped up using a few aftermarket and OEM parts. Used 258s are almost free, and they are a durable and long-lasting engine. If you go ahead with a swap, IMO you risk simply trading one set of problems for another.

    If your engine has an EGR valve, a dirty EGR valve can be the cause of rough idle. Cleaning the EGR valve is easy - buy the gasket, remove the valve, wire brush the pintle (the thing that sticks out), and put it back. Carbon on the pintle can hold the valve open, leaking exhaust gas into the intake at idle. This causes a rough idle.

    Thanks to Chuck for citing my leakdown suggestion, but I wouldn't do a leakdown test yet. Usually, if you have good compression and good oil pressure, and there are no ominous noises, your engine is basically sound. Compression is easy to check - all you need is a $20 compression checker from Pep Boys. Follow the directions on the package. I would do a leakdown test only if the compression numbers were lacking - the leakdown test is somewhat more complicated and requires a little more equipment, but it can be more specific.
     
  4. Jun 15, 2005
    High5

    High5 Member

    Urbandale, IA
    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2005
    Messages:
    802
    I do like the 258, right now it has the HEI conversion, motorcraft 2 barrel, new plugs and plug wires. It also has a dual outlet header and pretty much straight pipes as I need new glass packs. If the spark plug gap is off, will that give me a rough idle??? I just can't get the timing right :mad: and I am frustrated with it. This is supposed to be my daily driver after the wedding next week. We don't need three vehicles in the driveway, unless it's a project Jeep!!! :D

    Thanks for the help and keep it coming

    High5 :beer:
     
  5. Jun 15, 2005
    Chuck

    Chuck Sponsor

    Southshore Ma
    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2004
    Messages:
    1,463
    Not to high jack this thread, but I’m still wondering why my sons 258 read out good compression at (160, 140, 155, 150,160, 150) compared to the poor leak down test reading (70%, 70%, 50%, 78%, 42%, 54%) leakage. Any thoughts please post at "Compression test" thread.
     
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