Htog Reverse Ford Steering Column Conversion Kit Instructions?

Herm forgot to include the instructions, spoke to him earlier, and he said he would send, but it's 95* with 100% humidity and I am dead in the water needing to move forward with this. Does anyone have a copy of the kit instructions as far as length to cut stock steering shaft to be able to mate to the 24″ Borgeson Telescoping intermediate steering shaft?

Spence


Update:

Herm's instructions for posterity:


Stock Steering Column Conversion Kit

1= This kit is designed to be used on the stock Ross steering box assembly replacement

2=In order to use the components in the stock steering column conversion kit on the stock Ross steering box, you will need to cut the column. If you cut the column below the floorboard about 2” or so it will allow you to remove the steering box from below relatively easily. If you want to save your old column then you will have to raise your jeep considerable in order to allow the removal of the complete assembly once you have removed the steering wheel.

3= Once the steering box has been removed from the frame, you can adjust the height of the steering wheel for the driver by raising and lowering the column to a comfortable position with the dash mount supporting the column. Once you have determined the height of the steering wheel you are ready to cut the bottom of the column tubes to the correct length. This length needs to be sufficient to allow the installation of a bushing to separate the tubes and a u-joint to connect to the double “D” shaft

4= The outer tube should be about 1” shorter than the inner tube.

5= Attach the floor mount bracket to the column.

6= Install the bushing between the column tubes and secure with a small screw just to hold in place and remount the column to the dash and floor.

7= Install the column u-joint to the column, and drill a ¼” hole for a bolt to secure it to the shaft and attach to the double “D” shaft.

8= Attach the double “D” shaft to the steering box shaft u-joint

9= It is possible that you may have interference from other components in your vehicle that may cause you to make adjustments to the routing of the double “D” shafting.

If you have any questions or comments please call or e-mail me @

Hermtheoverdriveguy@yahoo.com

 

See if sheet 3 and 4 here match your parts...
https://www.advanceadapters.com/Att...loadGuid=c7205b54-cbfb-4073-89a7-16376a4f0ba4

 

I should have specified I have the CJ specific reverse Ford kit. Thanks for the reply.

 

Yes it's the Saginaw instructions, but Did you read the pages on the column? That should be pretty universal.

When I did mine I used a generic bushing and turned a spacer down to hold it. Then to allow the shaft to be cut long I used a setscrew collar to hold the base.

The steering box on the other end is irrelevant.

 

Thanks for sharing. More fish to fry with the F Head as Herm notes his CJ Ford kit isn't plug and play with F Head, notched the front plate engine mount, and a Champion radiator with the lower outlet on the passenger side is needed.

 

Ordered Champion 3 row Chevy style for the Willys CJ, has the lower port on passenger side to allow for clearance since the new Ford box resides there, also re-ordered the Weber fuel pump/regulator as the shaft passes through the area of the mechanical pump, $600ish oof..... Fingers crossed this is all that's needed...... I hope those interested in my Jeep being for sale appreciate the time and thoughtfulness of all the upgrades done in a period way. Hopefully this helps move it for any on the fence about having to complete the job themselves

 

Please post updates on the install.
I may be doing this in the future on a V6 Dauntless.

 

From my understanding, the heavy modding is specific to an F Head. Herm developed the kit out of necessity for a custom V8 rig he built, and the Saginaw just wasn't working out with the geometry/performance/accessories needed like PTO, custom axle, wheels/tires combination etc. So, you may be golden but have only to address header orientation, I saw that mentioned elsewhere.

So, the issue solely seems to be that of the position of the F head engine mounts. And of course, when that type of engine mod is done regarding a V6/V8 swap/OEM, it is usually done moving the mounts forward or back and/or down. I am pretty certain the Dauntless mounts are not in the same location as the F head but moved forward and possibly down to accommodate the slightly longer engine and length when mated to the transfer case/transmission.

 

The 225 is apples and pears to the 134. Overall from radiator fan to the nose of the transmission they are the same length. The 134 has four cylinders in a row the 225 has three in two rows. The 134 has a mounting plate on the front of the four cylinders. The 225 has mounting pads off the side of the block. The 134 sits deeper into the tub than the 225. The 225 crankshaft is offset .75" to the driver side and the 134 crank is offset 1.5" to the driver side. The 134 crank has a much longer stroke than the 225 so at the crank the block is wider on the 134.
Then you have the water pump with a driver side lower radiator hose. The chevy and Buick motors have passenger side radiator hoses.
Now the one good thing about the 134 is the water pump and fan sit about an inch and a half higher above the crankshaft and the exhaust is a little higher with a more centered outlet...

 

Awesome info thanks for sharing

 

dont. do a regular saginaw swap.