1972 Cj5 Wiper Linkage Binding

Having same problem as before where wipers will work just fine for about 4-5 cycles then bind to a complete stop. I have taken linkage apart, checked straightness of arms and verified moves easily about 90% of sweep then when they go left to drivers side is where the solid stop binding occurs.
I have put my scope into the windshield frame to view arms while manually moving arms(unhooked from motor) I can't see anything that would cause them to bind.

They did bind up so hard last time that it bent the windshield frame on the passenger side where the wiper stud comes out of the frame. I tweaked it back into place but still binding up.

I know about George's fix from youtube video where he makes the new linkage, threaded for adjustment and using eye bolts.

Wondering if anybody has purchased this kit that replaces all the OEM linkage completely. This kit is available from Barney's and VintageJeep.

I will purchase this to get rid of this problem that is not obvious to me but the linkage is binding up somewhere. This goes back to original restore when the windshield frame came with my tub/fenders as I have always thought the frame was for a 76+ year jeep with the extra mounting holes and how it sits a bit higher and my Bestop is very difficult to put on. If windshield frame came back towards Driver about another inch would make a big difference.

 

well I have to ask . is this a replacement aftermarket WS frame
I too had a problem with the passenger wiper pivot . and also tweaked the sheetmetal around hole
problem I was having was the linkage would sometimes flip on passenger side and lock up
after careful observation of linkage in motion . I realized the stock factory link to passenger side was too long
causing linkage to flip and lock up . cant remember if it was 1/4" or less that I removed and welded link back together
didn't wack it all out at once . but it did solve the issue . just something to think about

 

Chrysler had some issues on YJs with the linkage going over center and damaging the holes in the frame.
There was a re-inforcement plate that installed to the inside of the frame to re-inforce the frame after the frame had been bent.
This piece was long and went all the way across the frame. It was somewhat successful, short of having to replace the windshield frame.
Maybe you could find one of these to help in your situation.
Don't see why it wouldn't work on a CJ frame.

 

The top of the frame and the wiper motor are different on the 76 and up so it’s not one for 76 and up as your top would be too wide.

 

Had the same problem with my aftermarket frame

I ended cutting 8 inch on plate from winsheild and welded a thicker plate in place. Solve the issues this way

 

Thanks guys for the feedback. Aftermarket is hit and miss at best. I did order the kit from Barney and going to give it a try because it does come with 2 of the 76-86 driver side pivots that have the stops as part of the assembly so it will not "overclock" again.

 

Ok, so I got the kit from Barneys, very complete and nicely made. Before I installed I wanted to see if there was a better way to screw/hold the rubber gasket between dash and windshield frame. So I thought, how about putting nutserts in those 10 holes and using 8-32 x 1/2" screws with washer. Looked like it was just the ticket and simple to do so I did it.

Well the two nutserts that are closest to the pivots on the linkage each side is causing the linkage to bind. DAM
Not sure what to do on these locations, possibly remove the nutserts and not use anything in those locations. I believe the other 6 screws holding the rubber gasket in place is enough to hold/secure the rubber in place. Anybody got an idea or think leaving those 4 screws/nutserts out would be a problem?

 

Taking those out will not be fun. Some Ultra Black should hold the gasket in place.

 

Nutserts drilled out surprisingly well, just like you would do to a rivet. I used some silicone to hold gasket in place which I think will be just fine.

 

If I can pick you guys brains a little further. Trying to "clock" the wiper blades now that linkage is in and running smooth. I have heard/seen both ways of having them clocked far right(passenger) or far left(driver) side when parked. It seems the "factory" way is clocked to passenger side. I don't really have issues for either side but when the motor "parks" the wiper pivots are all the way to drivers side and as soon as I hit the switch, they cycle passenger>driver etc.
So when motor is parked, I slide the wiper blades on the pivots far enough driver side right to be out of my line of sight, hit the switch and these dang things go left(passenger) then come back driver side clear off the windshield. Not sure what problem is but still looking at it.

I know, I know, the clocking of the wiper blades is probably the easiest thing to figure out where to slide on the pivots but they are kicking my arse. I want to mention that the wiper linkage piece that connects to the short linkage then to motor only has a 10mm nut that holds it on the motor. The motor shaft has serrations in it where one would think the small linkage piece would utilize them but the hole is too small and no serrations on this little piece. Also, the linkage does NOT spin on the motor shaft which is what I originally thought was happening. I hope you can give me a thought on the problem but I think that little piece is key.

I also noticed after looking on a few vendor sites on 1972 CJ5 Wiper linkage, this small piece between the motor and short linkage is not even shown but was there and in use with the original wiper linkage.
Pic of the wiper linkage piece from motor to small/short linkage:


Pic is from the 1972 Sales Brochure

 

if they are parking on the wrong side the short pivot on the motor is 180 off