Tc Crack

I have had Mine do the same thing I ran it like that with out any problems.

 

That would need to be done with plenty of surface prep/cleaning and don't go overboard on the JB weld.
You don't want the chunk to come off in the t-case. Another option would be a stud with the Red Loctight
using the existing threads or find a good welding shop to weld the stud in.

 

Use a stud with permanent locktite. Red is not necessarily the permanent type with all brands. That will help seal the hole, then it should be good with a copper washer and nyloc nut at reduced torque at that location.

 

I have brazed plenty of copper to copper, copper to steel and steel to steel. Never tried brazing cast though. If it were here, I
would try it on the broken off piece. I normally used some cheap brazing rod and white flux but have a bit of flux coated rod
with a higher percentage of silver in it. Always got a good strong bond with it.

 

Cast iron brazes fine. Just needs super clean and a little preheat. I put a few Caterpillar parts back together using that technique. The only real downside is that you can't weld it down the road once brazed.

 

Muriatic acid then a small amount of liquid chloride or organic flux and you can silver solder cast iron with high confidence

 

I have stick silver solder if you want that, I will send you one let me know. Rick

 

Personally, considering the location of the damaged area in relationship to the output shaft, bearing and gear, I would not do any of the "hot" processes suggested. That is, I wouldn't do any of them without at least a partial teardown of the transfer case to protect the shaft, bearing or gear because of the amount of heat necessary to weld, solder or braze the part properly. For me, if I am going to do any teardown of the transfer case, I would do a complete teardown and replace the entire case.

 

No offense to fresbone but this would not be the time or place to learn a new skill.

 

The 'Bone been learning lots of new skills, I might add.

 

If he had it on the bench for a rebuild I would be all for it, but being in a functional vehicle it just needs to not leak... much.

 

To be fair, the pictures show it on a bench/floor.. Seems like an easier job if he only tore it down partially or as suggested, get another case
and rebuild it.

 

Like John said, I’ve been learning a bunch of new skills for this project. Believe it or not, I had never changed the oil in a car before I got this Jeep.
Here is my plan:
Clean it up very well - done.
Red Locktite (permanent red) plus a grade 8 full thread rod in the socket - ordered.
Paper gasket with thin layer of the right stuff on both sides.
New oil pan from Novak (1/4” billet).
Aviation gasket sealer in the hole and around the nylock.
Drip pan and watch for leaks!
I appreciate all the ideas. This forum is really great. When I am done with my jeep, each one of you deserves a drive - if you trust me!

 

Sounds like a good recipe. I bet it doesn’t leak from the repair. My experience of the dana 18 is that it’s just like a Harley. if it isn’t leaking then you know it’s low.

 

I like most of that but would use Ultra Black instead. I believe it sets up better in the absence of air. Another one to try is this: Designed for gear oil.
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81182-Gear-Gasket-Maker/dp/B0023GM2KK?th=1
Oil can and will permeate gaskets. Most new engines use no gaskets.
Good read here:
https://www.permabond.com/resource-center/common-mistakes-avoid-anaerobic-adhesives/

Instead of a nylock, try a normal nut with the blue loctite 242 on it and maybe a star type washer. This will give you a better feel when tightening the nut
and have less chance of pulling. Locktite Red 271 on the inside. The good thing is, if it comes loose, it will not be inside the case. Hope this makes sense.

 

The recommended Permatex gasket maker product works extremely well. I have used it and I have seen where others have used it with great success.

 

I'm gonna disagree with you on that one...I've been using Right Stuff for a couple of years now and it works great! Put my tcase together with it last year and for the first time in my life I have a non leaking D18!

 

I have used both with fair results. A good test would be to put a kiss size blob of both on something and cut in to it after
a couple of days. See how well it cures on the inside.