Warn Lock-o-matic Hubs Question

My CJ5 has these hubs.

In what circumstances are you supposed to lock these hubs?

are you supposed to lock them every time you want to use 4wheel drive or just in certain 4x4 situations?

 

They work like a ratchet. when they are in the "free'' position they are compety free, no rotation of the front gearing with the transfer case in 2 HI. You need to stops competly still and shift into either 4 HI or 4LO. Then when you start to move the front gearing will start moving and the hubs will take hold and your front wheels will start pulling. like I said they work like a ratchet, they will continue to pull as long as the jeep needs to go forward or up hill. when you start down hill the hubs release and just coast until you press the gas to make the jeep pull again so they will catch and lock up again.
If you need the jeep to hold back with engine compression you can lock them into the "lock" position and they act like any other hub when in lock. For example you can shift into and out of 4HI on the move because the front gearing is already turning the same speed as the rear gearing.
Hope I was able to explain, If you have questions just ask.

On edit: the automatic "free" position will work in either forward or reverse the same, the ratchet just reverses depending on which direction the front gearing starts to move.

 

I like mine, my driveway goes uphill, I put my Jeep in 4 wheel low to go up the hill and not dig into the soft ground, it is yellow sand under the grass and will wash out if it gets the surface dug up. Good Luck.

 

See also attached document. I have a copy of an installation manual for them. Too large to post here, PM me if you want it

 

They eliminate the need to constantly get in and out to lock or unlock the hubs.
You are 2wd until you shift the transfercase into 4 hi or low, then the spinning of the front axles engages the hub. You can use the automatic setting for brief stints such as negotiating a slippery driveway, short sections of low traction, or any other situation where you would get out to lock the hubs then quickly got out to unlock them.

Personally, I would always lock the hubs for any sustained offroading.

Remember, you can still lock the hubs in and run in 2 or 4 wheel drive with the t case.

These hubs are becoming rare and parts are getting harder and harder to find. I would show them some love.

You need to watch when you disassemble them to do a front bearing pack. They use a special wheel bearing nut that utilizes a tiny set screw. Do some research prior to tearing them apart or you may destroy something.

 

jeepdaddy2000 is absolutely correct here!!!
I bought some of these many years ago thinking they sounded like a cool piece of hardware. I inspected the internals and decided they were far too complex for my desire of keep it simple.

 

The Lock-O-Matics function with sprag clutches with the rollers ramping up between that outer heavy steel ring and the cam hub splined to the axle shaft. The lock up is provided by loading the front driveshaft (that makes it a pain to grease the front slip yoke). As that advertisement states, you don't have 4x4 mode when the hubs are in "free" position and there is no load on the front driveshaft. The greatest downside of that, in my experience, is driving on packed snow and ice when you take your foot off the gas and end up in 2x4 mode unless the hubs are locked in. It's real easy to swap ends doing that.

I actually think the Lock-O-Matics are strongest in their free position where there is nothing but hardened steel in the drivetrain. In the locked position, you are depending on the "needle" splines inside the aluminum outer hub to transmit the torque. I have never had any problems with Lock-O-Matics but you do need to pay attention to the maintenance-lube and O-rings. Like most hubs, they really don't appreciate being fed water. Without doubt, my favorite hub.

 

duffer's equipment is amazing...studs and locking 12 pt nuts on the hubs!

 

Thanks for the responses. It makes more sense now

 

By far my favorite hubs! I leave them in “free” 99.9% of the time. The 0.01 % is only when offroad and compression braking is needed (not often in southeast Florida).
-Donny

 

I disagree a bit here.

The locking portion of the hub is essential the same as the standard locking hub of the same vintage (WL2?). It's biggest downfall is it is a "direct drive" hub, meaning the worm directly pushes/pulls the clutch ring on/of of the hub shaft. This can make engaging difficult and disengaging a real bear if there is any windup in the system. This system, however, IMHO, is at least as strong and less likely to malfunction than the automatic system.

Ive seen a number of loc o matics with various clutch issues, but in memory don't remember seeing a WL2 have an issue that wasn't a direct result of external damage or owner abuse.

By locking in the hubs for severe service, you also eliminate the constant "slapping" of the rollers inside the hub body.

Just my .02

I too think they are uber cool, and they really aren't that complicated.

The trick is to separate the two systems and look at them individually. Once you see how each one works and everything makes sense, they really are pretty simple.

As stated above, the real trick it to use LIGHT grease on the rollers and don't overdo it. I have seen a ton of "bad" automatic hubs (mostly internal) and almost every one of them has had either zero maintenance or someone over greased them, usually with the thickest red Chevron grease they could find.

 

The Lock-O-Matics can have issues from lack of maintenance, improper lube, or lack of understanding how they work, causing damage.
Maintenance and lube go hand-in-hand. If seals leak (dial or wheel bearings), water can intrude, and lack of lube, or too much/too thick of lube can keep them from working.
The most common problem I’ve come across is a chisel is used to loosen the drag nut locking the wheel bearing on the spindle. If the outer surface is messed up and the drag nut is damaged, it then tears up the plastic friction clutches that ride on the drag nut. Once these are worn down or shredded, the hubs will never work. I have two sets where previous butchers have completely cut the cages for the friction clutches off the hub. They made them into manual-only hubs. Buyer beware!
I’ve had a hard time finding fresh plastic friction clutches and their band spring. These used to be available from Warn in rebuild kits, but it been probably 20 years or more since these kits have been available. Unfortunately, sellers ask crazy prices for these hubs when they are damaged or totally worn beyond functioning. With no replacement parts (plastic clutches) available, they are then only manual hubs at best. I’d venture to say most Lock-O-Matics on Jeeps today don’t operate properly due to the clutches being so worn as not to be effective at transferring the turning of the drive axle to the hub.
At least one set of these hubs I have was simply forced over the regular hex spindle nuts, pulled on by the 6 retaining bolts. Talk about total carnage and destruction of what was probably a nice set of hubs!
Lack of understanding/ignorance has given Lock-O-Matics an undeserved bad name.
-Donny

 

I have Lock o Matics on my J2000 and 2a. I think they're great. I was lucky enough to find rebuild kits for both of them, but as mentioned they are hard to come by. I've been stockpiling parts as I can.

I wonder if the nylon/plastic pads could be 3d printed? Would they work the same?

 

Not in ABS/FDM. that's what most people have on their home hobby printer.

 

I have one rebuild kit with the plastic friction clutches. They are a silver/gray plastic that is hard, but a little flexible.
-Donny

 

Maybe someone with a printer could put a call out to find a broken hub with a clutch or two intact. Get the shoe and find out what plastic it is made of and see if one could be printed.