2a 4.3l 4l60e 4 Speed Auto Short As Poss And Cheap As Possible

back to work.

 

Made rear fixed mount spring hangers oblong so i can adjust mount distance between hangers and shackle angle for ride and performance. have option for 42.5 eye to eye and 41.25. Springs i think are 46 when flat. Using a 5.25 shackle. When i installed these 10 years ago i had a 4 inch shackle and it would invert at droop so made it longer to fix. located the shackle mount flush with back of frame to get as long of wheelbase as could with shortest OAL jeep. Frenched the front fixed hanger into frame 2 inches. Previous set up had outboarded hangers so frenched in to get same ride height. Axles are iirc 60wms front and going to 56 rear. Hangers are 3/16 plate 3.75 wide x 6 ish tacked to 2.5 dia pipe, heated with torch and bent 90*, moved pipe over a bit and repeated bend for oblonged hanger with adjustability. Drilled two 3 inch diameter hole saw cuts 1.5 apart into frame. touched up a bit to match hanger with grinder. I spent the time to get all 4 mounts square to frame and parallel to another. Made a inverted u bolt set up which moves axle back 2 inches on the spring for longer wheelbase to oal.

 

disassembled leafs so could clean up. Modify ends per article i read how Deaver diagonal cuts ends to 1 inch wide and chamfers sides back for improved articulation

 

flat spring to show shackle angle.

 

These posts are cutting into my work time but enjoying a bit of slacking this morning.
Front leaf mounts - shackle end at front is from a piece of 1/8 wall pipe with 1.5 id. added a ring around ends for wider face for bushing to rest against. Added angle iron to outer for flat mounting surface and welded as is to frame. not a long 3 inch piece like many aftermarket. Have not ripped one off in 10 years. Rear fixed is from 5/16x3 angle with a side piece welded on for other ear. I intend to get these mounted square this weekend. I was not going to redo these however i knew they were not aligned perfect and i am moving driver leaf outward an inch to help with getting front diff to the driver side enough so front driveshaft will clear trans shifter and other. I pulled C's off front D44 that i think is from a 78 wagoneer that i narrowed about 5 inches years ago. Is is a large thick diameter tube D44 heavy! It is passenger drop and need to have driver drop due to the 4L60E trans case is offset to passenger side making it difficult to clear a driveshaft to passenger diff in narrow frame/axle with out pillow blocking front driveshaft. I mocked up axle and frot springs and would have to cut into the diff webbing 1.25 inches in order to get diff to drivers side enough. So moving driver spring out an inch or so and will still cut into webbing but less. I tried finding a driver drop 44 but nothing reasonable so heck with it. I would have had to narrow and change the Cs for alignment on ant D44 anyway so not a lot more work to cut long tube to desired length and sleeve the cut end on to the current short passenger side to make a driver drop. i did this on my Commando and worked.

 

was going to make a metal jig to fit jack and pull C's and another sip and i figured a chain will work. it did but took some power on that jack and whacking with hammer and punch. I whack the boss with punch and not the extended part of the C to not distort. I also warmed up the boss a bit with broad torch flame to expand it a bit. I did not get them red at all, more an even broad heat. This is second time i pulled these Cs on this axle and they were T I T. Tight. It took quite a bit of whacking. Cs have weld at inner side to tube. I ground this off with 1/4 disc, then cut off disc parallel to tube into the back side of C to cut the penetration of weld. I cut in about 1/8 inch. if you do this, try to start a bit off tube so you do not dig into tube badly. be sure to cut deep enough. One i did not and took more whacking to get it to crack loose. you can see the parting line develop when load it up with the jack and whack it. Good luck. Took me 1.5 hours to pull two.

 

Please chime in with suggestions. I just winging it. But done quite of bit of winging over the years.
axle mocked up with complete drivetrain a few days ago. I think i get a pool going for number of times i set the drivetrain in and out before i finally weld in the motor mounts. Ughhhhh! Using a 15 year old harbor freight fold up cherry picker that I replaced the fixed wheels with swivel caster which helped alot. and it stores pretty small too.

 

previous pic was with mounts form prior remodel and is when i decided to cut off and re do and move outward. this pic is same, previous mounts showing driveshaft (scarp metal) not great clearance. This was with engine centered. I going to offset it 1 inch to passenger next mock up. Help with driveshaft and steering shaft to that there ole EGR boss on the exhaust manifold. Darn! I am Green runnin EGR!

Gotta think about up travel to crank pulley and radiator too.

 

ok here is the driveshaft clearance shot prior to spring and engine offset.

 

Fuel tank - i looked a bit on suggestions. Going to call Summit. Was going to do homemade 1/8 think and internal reinforcing which helps as baffle for fuel slosh away from pump too. And no skid. Did this with my Commando and it took a hard rock hit, slight dent, but no issue. This one will see more hits so thinking lighter weight tank and a separate heavy skid. A tank set up for GM in tank pump not cheap. If anyone has leads please let me know. I may still make a tank so i can maximize capacity for space i have and get filler in location i want and save $400. I already have the pump.

Muffler(s) I will never forget that original green CJ5 Renegade with fenderwell headers and glass packs i saw and heard go to work every morning while i delivering papers at 5am. Coolest dam sounding jeep! Been there done that in a 5 with the 304 and with this willys with they v6 225 and those behind me all day on trail hated me. I liking quiet so may stick with single exhaust. But i feel like this heep is my last harah so may go dual short exhaust in front of rear tire and avoid plumbing up over axle. Any ideas for short slim muffler that i can live with nosie level. Will need just aft of t case on both sides and be short to i have room for 90 out to the side. I may go up over frame and cut into floor of body. remember this is a fiberglass body that is not perfect. But i may be dreaming on that whole routing idea and just do single out the side at back combing the two sides behind the t case above the d shaft. PITA. Off to work - on the house and jeep hopefully.
Happy New Year Everyone!

 

I don't have much advice for your other questions, but a tank that may work for you since you've widened the rear of the frame is a TJ tank.

The one in my 06 Rubicon measures 36" wide x 18" front to back x 12" tall with a decent skid plate. 19 gallons for decent capacity. I don't know if the fuel pressure is compatible with the GM fuel injection, but often times, you can swap out the pump itself on the sender/pump unit, so you could probably get a GM pump to work.

I would think you could find a TJ tank fairly cheap.

Picture from my TJ:

 

Fireball -thanks for the ideas both tank and swapping a pump. Unfortunately i have 32 inches inside frame rails.

Anyone with other ideas?

 

motor mounts - anyone ever use these? I think they advance adapters from years ago.
Thoughts?

 

If they ain't broke.... Herm sells those or a copy of them... I copied the concept but had to make my own with circle track engine side brackets that move the mount forward on the frame to clear my snow plow subframe.

 

Here is the Transdapt version.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-4771

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-4196

I think these are the engine side brackets I have:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all38110/make/chevrolet
How my motor sits, it was taken for the steering but you can see how it would have been a pain with the normal set-up.






Passenger side:


And Since I was browsing my pictures.

 

Thanks guys for input on the motor mounts. Going to use em. Nice work on offset and steer shaft routing. My steer box is mounted up high with shaft located directly above frame rail so clearing motor mount not as much an issue as yours. AND i love that bucket!! You got me beat on cubic yard capacity for sure.