Rear Main Seal Help - F134

Sometimes you can push it in from one side until the other end sticks out enough to grab with pliers and pull it the rest of the way out. Nothing to mess up in there.

 

Copy that! Thx you sir.

 

Seems like the NOS Motor I bought from a friend had the two rubber dowels in a little cloth bag, and it said to cut the dowels 1/8 " long so when you put the cap on it would crush the dowels together to fill any void. That was in 2007 so I am can't remember for sure. I think I still have a set of them, I bought a new set because the motor was from 1953 and thought they might be too hard from setting all those years in the box.

 

Probably a good call. The dowels in the set I just ordered were surprisingly way softer than I would’ve even imagined them to be. I think they need to be super squishy in order to make a good seal. I will probably also use some RTV as a sealant, because the inside of the holes are not the smoothest.

 

Another all day affair. Cleaning out the old and getting ready for the new. I spent a good amount of time trying and failing to get the upper neoprene seal out of the engine. In the end, All i had to do was screw a wood screw into it and give it a tug .

Question: In the process I loosened all the cap screws (attempting to get some more clearance). Now, I cant remember if there is a tightening sequence when retorquing them .

From what I remember...Start at the front, cap, torque it to 80-110lbs, rotate the crank, move to the middle cap, Torque it, rotate the crank, move to the rear cap, etc.

Does this sound right? I cannot find where I read it... and the manual I have does not specify such a thing (that I can easily find). It must have been on someones post somewhere.

 

Update: I got the seals installed and the bearing caps tightened per my shiny new "Cj Rebuilders Manual". I really like this book I just wish the pics were a bit easier to see. Gonna let it cure overnight and will update once I fire it up! Thx again everyone!

 

Good job!

If you did it with the engine still in the vehicle you are now officially indoctrinated into the "Shade Tree Mechanics Guild".

 

YESSS! That's an honor I'll proudly bear!

 

Using a wood screw instead of the cork screw of a Sneaky Pete give you higher status in the guild.

 

I've never used the rubber packing on the rear main seals. Just filled the holes up with RTV and haven't had any problems.

 

I have heard of this and dipping a wet toothpick in it. Don't leave the toothpick. It is to add some moisture for the cure process.

 

Got the jeep fired up today! Almost had a heart attack when I saw a puddle forming on the ground at the rear of the pan but then realized I just needed to retorque the pan bolts after the engine had warmed up. So far I've checked and retorqued 3x after a couple short test drives and it seems like it's holding.