Steering System Play. Need Advice.

I'm slowly working my way through all the systems in my 64 cj5 and have now come to the steering system.
I need some advice and tips when it comes to working my way through the system, checking for wear, and replacing things.

The steering makes a big "clunk" when turning at low speeds. The ross box leaks oil from the seal at the pitman arm and I notice ALOT of movement at that pivot point. in-and-out from the steering box.

I"m definitely gonna rebuild the ross box. Already have the parts kit.

The bellcrank also wobbles, when I pull on it, about 1/4 inch. I'd assume that needs rebuilt as well. The parts are in my "cart". (its the upward facing bellcrank).

Beyond those, I don't really know how to diagnose other weak links in the chain.

My questions are:
1. Tie rods. How do i know if those are shot? The whole tie rod assembly rotates when i grab and twist but I'd expect that to be normal considering all the ball joints kind of line up horizontally. Is there a standard way of telling when those are "excessively" moving?

2. Drag link. how do i know if this is worn? Does this wear? Am I overthinking it?

3. Other tips and tricks you can think of regarding the steering system?

This is my first time learning about steering in general... so even the "dumb" tips will be helpful!


Thanks in advance!!!!

 

How's your pitman arm look? Is the ball flattened? I would also check the springs and cups in the drag link. Don't get the pieces mixed up. Fore and aft are different. Clunk? axle joint? Don't forget kingpin bearings require preload using shims. Helps dampen the system. I'm sure there's lots more.

 

Have a helper rock the steering wheel from side to side. Get under and look and feel for lost motion and relative movement in tie rod ends, knuckles, etc. etc.

Jack each front wheel, and grasping the tire, try to wobble it back and forth. (Side to side reveals tie rods, etc. Top and bottom may show up worn king pins. General looseness could be wheel gearings.)

Sounds like your jeep may have plenty of wear in all parts of the system.

 

I see considerable in/out movement in the sector shaft when turning the wheel. That, paired with the wobble on the drag link seems like the most likely cause of the "clunk". Atleast as far as I can tell.

The axles will be on my rebuild list after the rest of the steering stuff is done.

Everything is still assembled currently so I haven't been able to physically look at the ball on the pitman arm or the bellcrank. Sounds like I might as well throw some new springs and cups in the drag link while I've got everything apart though since it's only $18 on amazon for the kit.

 

Ok just went out and did this test. Jacked each wheel and had to put a reversed 3' clamp against the opposing wall/tire to keep the opposite wheel from moving while I wiggled them. I could see the bellcrank moving like a hula dancer figurine

No movement up/down or left/right on the drivers side wheel.
Less than 1/16" movement up/down on the passenger side. No movement left/right. The Up/down was just slight but i could feel it for sure. I'll be rebuilding both front axles and warn hubs this winter.

The tie rods didn't seem to move at all though in either case.

 

Check your spring hanger bushings for wear while steering left and right, if the jeep shifts left and right over the axle when steering because of loose spring bushings it will affect the steering wander.

 

Th

Thats a good tip! I just replaced all the bushings in the back end and my project for next week is the front end bushings!

 

Here's mine before the Saginaw conversion.

Wheel bearings, kingpin bearings, and tie rod ends were good. Everything else is junk... except the steering wheel, it's shaft the bearing at the top of the column. Even then the steering wheel and shaft were bent but I sort-of like them that way.

 

#1 upgrade IMO. Something to think about.

 

While I agree the Saginaw conversion is an upgrade, it is also complicated and expensive.

The original Ross steering works fine when put back in good condition. Finding quality parts is getting difficult but still can be found.

Joe DeYoung on the CJ2A page forum makes the best rebuild kit available for the drag link, and restores the ball ends on the bell crank and Pitman arm. The Pitman arms can be found NOS at a reasonable price, but NOS bell cranks are pretty expensive, so if I needed one I would send an old one to Joe.

 

I have started a Saginaw conversion on a CJ2A I am building as a trail Jeep. The frame is 50 miles away at a friend's shop right now, where the steering box mount was welded in, the frame horns boxed, and that big round cross member on a 2A was tunneled for the shaft. They did a real nice job of it, but I can't take any pictures until I haul it back here. The guy who did the welding claims he can weld anything except a broken heart or the crack of dawn, he does very nice work.

 

I would start with the Drag Link first, it is the easiest to rebuild, I had a Clunk my Jeep replaced the drag link parts took most of the clunk away. Good Luck.

 

It sounds like there is no single “worn” part, but several major components that need to be replaced or refurbished.
The Ross steering box needs major attention from your description, and the big problem is the quality (or lack there-of) of available parts. Aftermarket replacements have been documented wearing out in days of use, or outright breaking. The spiral end of the inner column wears, and the engagement pins on the sector shaft wear. These are hard to find in good condition. John Deere tractor parts (pins) have been found to be adaptable, but require specialized fitment. The case bushing also wears, but this can be readily replaced. There are at least two diameters of shaft diameter, so need to get the correct part. The Willys wagons and trucks have similar parts, but are not interchangeable with CJs.
Your bellcrank bearing or bushing is also worn out, but can be replaced with available parts. There are several variations and sizes of center bolt, so you need to disassemble first to find out what style parts you need. You also need to check the wear on the “ball” ends to see if they can be reused.
The draglink is easily rebuilt with all new cups and caps, provided the wear hasn’t distorted the actual link.
-Donny

 

Just wanted to give an update on this. After rebuilding the ross box, new pitman arm, new body/suspension bushings, new shackles, new tie-rod ends, rebuilt bellcrank, and rebuilt drag link.... It handles like a freakin sports car (comparatively)!!! It actually holds center when going straight and stays turned when I turn the wheel. There are NO clunks or noises when hitting potholes or speedbumps and almost no play at the steering wheel.

Its weirdly quiet and responsive haha. I HAD NO IDEA AN OLD JEEP COULD HANDLE LIKE THIS.

To think, it was just as simple as completely redoing EVERYTHING!

 

I went though all this on my '69, and like you, was surprised how nice it drove.

It sounds like you're all set but another thing you may want to consider for stability down the highway is some caster shims. They are wedges that go between the front leaf spring and axle to increase caster. Makes the Jeep much more stable at speed:

I've used these 2" wide ones ground down to fit the 1 3/4" springs on my '69 and '71, but is seems like @FinoCJ found a better source that are both cheaper and already 1 3/4" wide:

https://www.amazon.com/Warrior-Products-800052-Degree-Spring/dp/B004JATQUW​

 

Good job!

Keep it all lubricated properly.

 

Interesting! I've seen those and always wondered what they were for.
My jeep redlines at 45mph haha (5.38 gearing) . Unless I get an overdrive I doubt I'll be freeway-ing anytime soon.

 

https://www.wfoconcepts.com/c-13931...products-axle-shims-1-75-inch-axle-shims.html

Here's the wfo link, they are good zinc plated steel with a convex spring side that i couldn't mill myself.

 

That's them!